Old Yellow

It's a $ speed TR7 axel. The 5 spd cars didn't have the pumpkin.

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I think the bolt circle is 114.3 - early toyota cars ans supra. Here's a web site that gives a lot of bolt circles. http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Toyota___Vehicle_Bolt_Pattern_Reference.cfm I would have to do some measuring for the offset. What car are you wanting to put them on? They fit the Rotus perfectly.

I have a set of four Keizer 3 piece 13" X 10" wheels with like new Hoosier autocross tires mounted on them. They will fit the Rotus 7 cars that came with Toyota wheels. The bolt spacing is 4 x 114.3mm. The center piece can be changed out to most any wheel pattern. I have sold the car so I won't be needing them now. $500 plus shipping takes the set. If you want to autocross the Rotus 7 or Toyota wheel based car these are for you. The wheels sell for approximately $275 each new and the tires are over $200 each so it's a savings.

SOLD - Freshly painted Color same as Ferrari Fly Yellow (couldn't find right formula so used a ford color) Mazda 13b Rotary built by a professional RX7 ITA car builderaround 2006. Engine has been street ported, balanced with light weight rotors. Engine was new in 1990 (not a junkyard pickup) Weber 48IDA carb that has 50mm bore that has been opened up additionally Dyno checked at 255hp flywheel. MSD ignition with rev limiter, RPM limited to 8600. Engine has about 100 street miles on it and has mainly been autocrossed 9 times a year for the last 6 years. Fan assisted oil cooler Custom C&R aluminum crossflow radiator leather interior 4.10 Toyota Supra rear end with a Toyota Racing Limited Slip. Also have a 5.33 pumpkin without LSD but easily moved to it. Car was just too fast on acceleration with it. Full disk brakes all around. 15" Panasport Wheels Fully registerable with windshield wipers, turn signals, brake lights, head lights, Emer. flashers New Windshield (broke original while working on car) SCCA regulation roll bar Halon fire extinguisher in engine compartment Have one spare stock Turbo 13b engine/transmission and another regular transmission that will go with the car also. All documentation for car from the time original owner started talking to Chriss Custer on building the car. even have leather sample Original cost of car was approximately $30k Negotiable - Set of four Keiser 13" X10" 3 piece aluminum wheels and 1 year old set of Hoosier 25A rubber with almonst zero wear. Negotiable - 4 Koni double adjustable shocks ( over $2000 invested in them) Presently on car. If you want a wild experience you need to try out this car - it's fast. Reason for selling - Too many toys. Thinking about getting a shifter kart. I have a 25' boat, 22' jet boat, 2 Triumph cars and I'm getting old. Need more time to try out faster shifter karting. Also figure it might wear a little off my rear end so I can get in 36 waist pants. Price $12,500. Joe Worsley (336) 998-6501 Advance, NC - Near Winston Salem

Mine might not be quite as clean as the one pictured but we'll see after it's painted. It has leather interior and I'll redo the carpet in the trunk also. It doesn't have the motorcycle type front fenders and the reat tail lights are different as they had trouble with them rubbing the wiring. I like my 53 chevy tail lights better.

Thanks Mazda. I'm going to start driving one of my Triumph TR8 cars which is so competitive that it can almost stay up with a Miata in it's class. In other words will be just be for fun now which is what it has always been about anyway. It's hard to make a 30 year old car stay up with the newer ones. I'll be putting a 4.6l Rover in one of them with a little lumpy cam for fun to replace the 3.5L one it came with. They look the same only larger bore and stroke. Joe

I'm planning on selling my 1990 Rotus. It's presently in the process of being painted at the local Votech School. The color is Ferrari Fly Yellow. I would like to get a idea of what it's worth now as I already have a couple of folks that are interested in it just sitting at the Votech school. It has a 13b rotary that has been pretty strongly street ported and has a 48IDA Webber that has 50mm chokes and opened up a little more. It has a heavy duty Centerforce clutch. The engine has been balanced and lightweight roaters installed by a professional who builds ITA cars. The flywheel power on a dyno is 255hp. I autocrossed the car for a few years which doesn't involve a lot of heavy duty track time and the rev limiter is set at 8600 which is well below what it's capable of. It also has a set of double adjustable Koni shocks that were around $2000 for the set. The rear end is a 4.10 ratio Toyota Supra with a TRD limited slip in it. I also have a 5.33 pumpkin and 2 spare transmissions and a spare engine that go with it. The spare engine and one transmission is out of a early turbo car so the transmission is heavier duty

I have a Pumpkin from the Toyota Supra rear end that has almost no use. It is a 5.33 ratio. I changed mine to a 4.10 so I don't need it. The car had less than 2k miles on it when it was removed. I'll take $75 for it plus shipping. Joe Worsley (336) 998-6501

I have a new pair of Rotus rear fenders for sale. They have never been mounted. I damaged one on the car during autocrossing a few years ago but was able to repair it. I had a new pair made off the original molds but never used them. I paid around $400+ for the pair. I'm in the process of preping the car for painting and sale so I won't need them. I'll take $300 for the pair. They may fit a Locost, Caterham or another Lotus replica. Joe Worsley (336) 998-6501

They come from a Supra. I believe it was a 79 vintage. Check the files section of the Rotus Yahoo Groups. I posted the parts listings there a couple of years ago.

When autocrossing I drive with my right shoo off. I have a size 13 foot and even my Simpson racing shoes sometimes get confused with the gas/brake pedals. I even cut half the brake pedal face off.

I don't drive it on the street so I won't be there. It's strictly a auto-x car. It's also not comfortable for a 6'3" driver. I have to keep my foot on the clutch pedal all the time.

Don't forget if you want to be a "non Profit" in the eyes of the Feds and want a IRS ID number it's another $500 to get the 501c7 exemption but you can skip that if you dont get too big. You only need to file a tax return if you take in over $25k. I filed it a couple of years ago on our 30 year old auto-x car club as they had the state exemption/incorporation but not the federal and I found it out when I took over the lifetime treasurers job. We do take in over 25k a year si I file a tax return.

If you have a Harbor Freight Tools or Northern Hydraulic in your area they have them aslo. Lots of tool stores have them as well as Sears probably having themOld Yellow38920.2468634259

My tail lights aren't like the ones shown with the gasket problem. Joe Worsley

I would say it's probably working. Put one wheel in the sand ans see what you get. I tried my relocated one out on the street in front of the house and it left two 10" wide black marks. It won't do it in second gear anymore especially with the fresh Hoosier slicks and changing from 5:33 to 4:10 gearing. Joe

I didn't see anything. I just moved it over to the new unit without looking. Joe

I didn't see any clutch packs. I really didn't look at how it works but it appeared to be some type of torque sensing maybe similar to the Quaife unit I put in one of my Triumph TR8's Joe Worsley

If it is the Toyota Celica Supra (1st generation of the Supra)it's like mine. I had 5:33 gearing in mine and I found someone on the list that had a stock Supra diff so I bought that and moved the LSD over myself. It's a pretty simple job as you don't disturb the pinion setting so all you have to do is put the existing ring gear on the new carrier unit and re adjust the side play for clearance and bearing pressure. There are threaded rings on each side to do that with. The LSD is a TRD unit which might not still be sold by Toyota. There aren't any clutches in it. I think that is what they were using when building the cars. You should be able to tell by jacking up one wheel as see if it still moves the car. I assume you have the 79 vintage diff so you could also pull the unit and look. It's a tight fit to slide the drive shaft forward and get the unit pulled out and down on mine.

After I modified the Rotary I had to have dual pass radiator made. I got it thru one of the NASCAR suppliers here. It was a tight fit ans I ended up with a opening at the bottom that I need to put something in sometime to direct the full flow of ait to it. The original toyota radiator had a similar air dam behind the grill. It cost me around $500 or so to have one custom made. Joe

Mazda, That sounds familiar and 1.6 even more familiar. I just don't do the drag thing I'm not set up for it. We did a couple of drag events with the autocross club but the last time I went all I could do was spin tires at the start. I sold my 15" rims that had the slicks on them so all I have outside of the 13" slicks now is non sticky 15" street tires. Your right on making power with the Rover engine. You can get 300hp from it fairly easy though. I have several Rover engines here 4.0 and 4.6 ones. I'm going to take the pistons out of a 4.0 and put them in a 4.6 which will bump my compression up to about 10.5, balance it and put in a cam with a little rumble along with a appropriate 4bbl carb. The engine is light being all aluminum and the newer heads have bigger valves than the older heads. I will port them a little and match the intake and exhaust ports also which are always not right. That should be enough power for the Triumph car for street use and turn a few heads along with it. Besides that it's a straight bolt in with no changes needed anywhere. Maybe a bigger radiator would help. Joe

Thanks Mazda, I think my time was a little over 8.0 on my best run but I shut it off a little early so my time was probably in the very low 12's related to a 1/4 run then. I had a case of the dumbs and though I had passed the finish line. I would like to get my Triumph TR8 coupe down in the 12's with the 4.6l rover engine I will be installing during the restoration. My stock convertable runs the 1/4 in about 15s. I do remember that the guys that were with me said the the announcer made a funny comment about the car but after I took off he retracted it and commented on the 60 foot time which was pretty very fast but again I don't remember what it was. The cars being pretty light will just jump off the line if you can get traction. What are you going to do with the 4.6l engine I gave you now that you put the LS1 in it? I'm going to get the rotary from Tom that you gave us and keep it for a spare as Tom isn't going to put it in his Locost now. He's going to put a 1.8l Miata in it in place of the 1.6l Ford.