IDreamOfChapman

if you are movng to the greater Portland area give us a PM when you are settled. There's at least one Caterham (mine) and an Ultralite S2K not 5 minutes from me just southeast of the city.

2nd this advice. The nosecone on a Caterham should not block it at all.

reviving this old, dead thread... I'm looking at the Schroth Profi II ASM FE belts, they have a special caterham version available from demon-tweeks, as well as the standard version available directly from Schroth. Any comments on the fit of the direct sales ones vs. the caterham version? Looking at the pictures, the ones from demon-tweeks look like the webbing is shorter, but I'd prefer the DOT-legal push-button release mechanism on the ones Schroth sells directly. Has anyone installed the standard length belts in their car? Were they too long? Links to each below: factory direct: https://www.schrothracing.com/competition/profi-asm/profi-II-asm vs this: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/harnesses/schroth-caterham-ii-asm-harness

Please post a review of that shifter once you have installed it!

so. to make this thread more useful two observations: the lower steering shaft is not just splined, it is also grooved such that the steering rack u-joint clamping bolt slides into the groove. you have to completely remove the bolt to slide the steering shaft out of the u-joint and rotate it. second, you can set your steering wheel position fore and aft here as well but on my car at least this was very limited by clearance between the upper steering clamp and the master cylinder. it is possible to set the steering shafts such that the clamp interferes with the brake cylinder (bad, obviously).

Thanks! A little of both and it is all fixed. Thanks everyone.

Hi. I noticed I had some play in my steering so I went through the steps in the Caterham assembly manual to re-tighten the steering shaft clamp at the firewall which eliminated the (admittedly small amount of) play. Now my wheel is not centered - according to the assembly manual you center the steering for a QR Momo wheel/shaft by removing the bolt on the lower U joint (at the rack) and just center the whole steering shaft by pulling it out and re-inserting it with the wheel centered (and it says to do this after the upper clamp is tightened and installed). The problem is, I can't pull the shaft out because the upper clamp is right against the firewall. So, am I missing something here?? As you can see, once the lower U joint collar is loosened from the shaft, there is nowhere for the shaft to go without banging into the firewall... thanks for any help! -Chris

That listing is expired, are you sure the car is still available? I watch the market pretty closely, I'd posit that at this moment in June of 2014 $25k is on the high side (but not unreasonable) for an x-flow powered car. It would have to be very clean, sorted, and otherwise well equipped for me to think it was worth that however. Hard to tell now that the listing is gone but it is implied by the text there it is an older chassis and there is no indication of mileage...

I have a seven gallon tank in my caterham with a ~210 horsepower zetec. I get around 110 miles driving on back roads, close to 150 on an all-freeway drive.

"My Porsche 930 is documented in Aug 96 Road & Track magazine at just over 10 seconds with a 0-100 time of 7.62 seconds" Did you forget the "-0" part? I bet decelerating from 100 mph is at least 4 seconds...

http://bringatrailer.com/2014/02/21/bat-exclusive-number-puzzle-lotus-seven-project/

Hmmm. Of course they are out of stock at caterham (and for imperial chassis probably never going to be available).

I assume it must be custom. I like it... http://www.crankandpiston.com/on-the-road/caterham-superlight-r400-arming-the-weapon/

Hi. If anyone has any spare Caterham S3 snap-on doors w/ side curtains ( the kind that hinge at the windscreen ) that they don't want I would be interested in taking them off your hands. Thanks!

The Pectel T2 manual is pretty clear that you must use high impedance injectors with it. Generally speaking, ‘high impedance’ means 12 ohms or higher, where the stock Ford Focus injectors that Caterham used on these engines are around 2.5 (mine measured 2.4 ohms). Because of this the injectors pull too much current when in operation which can cause the ECU to overheat. During extended running this can destroy the ECU, which is an expensive repair (I think ApexSpeed charges ~$800 for this). You can’t really tell by looking other than the stock injectors are black - the easiest way to tell if you have a potential problem is to disconnect an injector and measure the resistance with a multimeter. Myself and several other people on the forum (one of whom I believe did in fact burn out an ECU) have all found this condition on these 210 HP Zetec configurations that Caterham supplied in the early 2000’s. These engines also were often set up by the factory to be extremely lean running as well (dangerously so in some cases) which IIRC is also due to the factory injectors having a low flow rate for the ITB setup they came with. The fix is documented here somewhere - I will look for the thread in a bit. There is a Bosch 16 Ohm injector part that can be installed easily but you have to run a different (lower) fuel pressure and then take your car in to be tuned on a dyno to make sure it is running a safe AFR once they are installed. If you don’t have the serial cable and software needed to tune the T2 those things are available. Making a serial cable that plugs into the 1/4” jack on the dash is easy, and several of us have all the software you need to connect to the T2.