degoetz

Built in 2014 by Stalker Cars and Scott Minehart. AXR #1 (auto Cross Racer) Level 6 with all new parts including 2014 LS3 crate eng, Tremec 6spd trans and Cadillac independent rear end. 2 sets of 13" Keizer wheels 13"x10" frt and 13"x14" rears. This car weighs in under 1700# and has 430hp. Upgrades since then include, A much lighter 2016 Jerico 4sp Road Racing trans with straight cut gears, no synchromesh but (clutch less) dog engagement with 1000 lbs torque capacity and 900 gear ratio combinations. Right now I have 2 first gears one for small courses and one for larger. Top speed in each gear right now is 1st-67.4mph, 2nd 1st- 82.6mph, 3rd 105.5mph, 4th 141.3mph with any combination you might want to change them to. Factory improvements include stronger rear A arms and Differential brace. Also Advance Racing Suspensions custom built shocks. Sent them motion ratio's at every 10th of an inch of travel 1" above and below ride height for frt and rear suspension , corner weight, sprung weights and unsprung weights before they could build me the right shocks. They talked me into only adjustable rebound but they can still redo the shocks with both adj comp and rebound if you desire. Have changed the frt and rear coil over spring rates to match as close as possible current 2015-2018 2nd place National placing EM car from Jason Minehart. This also includes 2014 Pace Outback enclosed trailer (as pictured), Long Acre cross weight scales, many extras I can't think of , receipts, log book, charts, extra tranny gears, extra suspension springs, throttle body and anything that I can't use. Comes with Hoosier R25b slicks with 10 runs on them. This is a SCCA Emod Nationally competitive turnkey setup. Car has never been registered but is setup to be road legal. (needs horn and frt turn signals) This car and trailer, x- set of wheels, scales and many extras, Only asking $45k, owner’s health forces sale. You can contact Scott Minehart from Stalker Cars for more details about the build at scott.bruntonauto@gmail.com or call 386-931-6437. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14577&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14578&stc=1

Until now i always thought this was photo shopped.

Welcome to the site. Great to have another person working to make the Stalker AXR the best it can be. Going to the Utah Match tour in Farmington at end of the month, will have a chance compare against some other E-mods maybe even Kiesel , he did make the last Utah Match Race in ST George.

Ls3

Cool conditions, cool surface required moderate driving in first half of run to warm tires [video=youtube;-Cels6dXbsg]

Scott Minehart wins Emod Class at Dixie Nationals

I did my own on a 2014 AXR but this might not apply to all Stalkers http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu163/degoetz/Cars/MotionRatioChart_zpsf471b449.jpg

Be careful using only shock preload for ride height. I use shock preload to center my travel in the shock and the adjuster rod to determine ride height. For example if the the ride height is too low and you preload the spring you might end up with the spring only compressing at 1/2 or 3/4 of an in. What I do is preload the spring and let the car down and measure how much the shock has compressed. I have 3&1/4 in of travel so I want my spring preload set so the shock settles about 1&1/2in. then I set my ride height with the adjuster rod and now I know I have range on both sides of the shock travel without it bottoming or topping out.

Yes, he was, My mistake

I feel this is not restricting the front braking as much as I am proportioning the proper balance between the front and rear braking. This is what the the properly designed M/C for the car would do anyhow. I have talked to Scott, the designer, and builder of the car. He is building the exact car for himself and will use the same set up I have now (including the frt proportioning valve) . I feel the foot applied pressure to the braking system is about the same as I had on my C5 ZO6. He has used and doesn't recommend the 2 master cylinder with adjusting bar system. He has had many complaints about too much foot pressure and fatigue, especially for street drivers. I am used to the feel of this system. I would recommend you try this first and maybe save yourself a lot of work and money.

Autocrossed this weekend and set up brake bias. Ended up with the frt valve 3/4 turn from full open. Most control and confidence in braking since I got the car. At a full turn the back end wanted to start to drift under full braking. With no bias adjustment the frt would lock up at maximum force Never had the brakes lock up the rest of the two days after the adjustment

Did some testing before I installed front proportioning valve. All tests were done at 20mph to lock up. With clutch disengaged - good braking with all wheels locking up at hard brake pedal force, not much control when that happens. 1st gear - better braking with only fronts locking at very hard brake pedal force. 2nd gear - not as good braking with fronts locking up at med hard brake pedal force. It seems like the engine breaking (1st) or pushing (2nd) along with the big rear wheels have an affect on the total braking. I have not tested the car with the installed front proportioning valve yet but I hope to increase braking closer to the 1st gear results, since I run in 2nd gear most the time i will adjust the valve until it locks up rears and back it off. That should give me maximum braking with my set up and allow me to adjust frt to rear to conditions and if I change wheels. http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu163/degoetz/001_zpsb6664fb0.jpg

The frt and rear suspension uses inboard shocks via push rods and rockers with adjustable motion ratios. I have all ready stiffened the rear and the frt is as soft as it can be. Hopefully with softer frt springs I can put the rear suspension back where it was.

I just noticed this, I am told the front springs are 200lbs and 25 & 50lbs would be a significant change. The only way to know if this would improve the handling & maybe braking would be to try them at some time.

22lbs frt, 20lbs rear. As by Scott's suggestion, I have tried more and less in the frt and 22lbs works the best. The rears stick so well that I don't think anything between 24 - 16lbs would make much difference. i wanted Hawk HP+'s for brake pads but Scott said they were too aggressive and unpredictable so i am using what he uses but i don't know what they are. But they are the same frt to rear. The bottom line is that what Scott, the designer, builder and racer ( finished as high as 3rd in the SCCA Nationals) has built is basically all the same as what he builds now except for tubbing the frame and using much wider tires. So if I use his proven specs for a base line the only real difference are the rear wheels. I can install a front adjustable proportioning valve and I think as long as I leave the rear full open and maybe move more bias to the rear I can gain some more braking. Even 10 or 15% more to the rear without locking them up should help with the braking. Next year he should be driving the basic same car and that will really help. No wider tire is available in the 13'x 20" dia for the front but i could move up to a 22" dia and get a wider tire but that is not what I am planning to do that this point. I started this thread in order to find someone that has installed more than one proportioning valve in a system. Thanks for all the current and continued input Don

I am getting even lock up in the two front, not the front and back. The rear wheels never lock up. I don't know why this would indicate to you that the frt to rear bias is ok.

Dave The even lockup is both fronts left and right not front to back. I agree completely that for me there is a bigger learning curve coming from one of the best ABS systems out there. But I still think the 50% lighter car should stop at least as good as the Vette. I am gradually applying more pressure at the pedal because the car is not stopping as well I think it should be. I am going to just leave it alone the rest of this year and try and adjust to it. I have also changed the rake from 1&1/4' to 3/4' to help with what I think might be under steer along with they are sending me 2 more sets of front springs 25 & 50 lbs lighter. Why don't you co-drive one day this weekend with me and show me how to drive one of these 7 series cars.

http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu163/degoetz/007_zpsab1b326a.jpghttp://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu163/degoetz/002_zpsc05bd688.jpg The front left line goes to the rear wheels, the rear right line goes to the front wheels

There is only one master cylinder with two lines running off of it. The proportioning valve was and still is turned full clockwise which I was told is max to the rear. I have no instructions with the valve and will try to adjust it this weekend and see if it is set the right way. There is considerable more rotating mas in the much larger and heavier rear wheels and why wouldn't they require more braking force to them over the fronts from the stock equal tire set up?

The current proportioning valve is in the rear brake line and I can only reduce the force to the rear brakes. In straight line braking both will lock up, in a turn normally the inside will lock first, which is normal. I would think that being 1/2 the weight of my C5 Corvette, the stalker would stop better but right now the vette will out brake it.

I have a 2014 Stalker Mspec with a tire and wheel combination they have never used before. The car was built to compete in SCCA Solo in Emod class. I am using the same tire and wheel size as the current national champion and a lot of the top competitors use. Frt - 9.5"w x13x 20"tall, rear 14"w x13x 23" tall Goodyear slicks. Under med hard to hard braking I can lock up the frt brakes I think too easily. I am used to racing a modified C5 Vette with ABS. I have been in contact with Scoot at Brunton Auto and he runs equal sized race tires on his although he is building a car for himself will have my combination for future competition. I believe that the with added traction of the wider and possibly the taller rear tire could use more rear brake bias with the mismatched tire combination. I have been trying to find out if anyone has ever added an additional brake proportionig valve to the front wheels and if that would cause any problems with having two proportioning vales in a system. should I remove the rear valve before installing the frt one? At this point I am just going to drive the car more and see if I can get used to it.

Great information and documentation....saving some of your pics for later mods.

http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu163/degoetz/BuildPics19_zps6e680051.jpghttp://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu163/degoetz/BuildPics17_zpsca4ba656.jpg

The first pic w/eng is definitely not my frame. It is the car Scott was going to build for himself until he decided to build two cars the same as mine. But things got too busy and now he says he will have to wait for his car build. The other frame would be mine if it had the rear sectiond tubbed for the larger wheels. http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu163/degoetz/Stalker12b_zps654c0876.jpg

Yes it is......as the national caliber driver that he is I gave him complete control to do what ever he thought necessary to build the best two passenger autocross car on the planet.