GunshipDriver

Drove it again today to and from work which has a fair amount of semi-rural canyon roads. There are areas that are considerably less than perfect. Before driving it I was able to reduce the rebound compression on the front coilovers, attempted to adjust the rears and one side could adjust and the other was stuck. Hit it with WD-40 a few times with no luck and applied a lot of pressure (enough to torque/bend the allen wrench) with no luck. The ride seemed a bit better than the other day but I did also lower the tire pressure cold from 18 psi to 16 psi. The car still seemed to hop around a bit due to the lackluster road surface and I found that if I did not brace the side of my right foot against the transmission tunnel the bouncing of the car would cause me to end up having my right foot slightly bounce on the gas pedal getting me to surge the pedal/car on and off cyclically which definitely got irritating at times. On a funny note I had little to no clearance for my thighs on the drive in to work and also couldn't press the gas without inadvertently pressing the brakes which made the drive a bit frustrating. My work boots are not very compatible with the WCM. Ended up driving home in my socks and that made a world of difference. Found out it will likely be about $150 plus shipping both ways to get my koni adjustment knob to work again... In addition it will be about a 4-6 week turnaround at best... there are possibly other places that could do it for a little less and have better turn around. I may end up trying to do it myself.

Thanks for the info. I had 18 PSI front and back after trying 20 PSI around the block and seeing dirt on the tires absent from the other 1.5 inches of tread. Even after running 18 PSI and looking at the dirt on the tires I feel like I should be running a bit less. My plan next is to remove the coilovers, order springs, and swap them over... I'm thinking the normal macpherson coil compressor I'm used to borrowing from Autozone will do the trick... I hope...

BTW, is it common to have your speedo and tach trip the circuit breaker and go dead during a drive or pause between spirited driving sessions?

....what a blast it is/was. It is taking a while for me to get used to the steering and keeping in within the lines. On a bumpy road and the quick ratio of the steering rack I am often self wobbling the car along imperfect roads. That takes me to my next experience which was excessive rear lock up on hard braking when attempting to slow and swerve around "new" pot holes since discovered after the rains we've had. I was able to readjust the brake bias a few times and believe I have it where I want it now. But also, I found my car jumping off the pavement every now and then requiring me to think hard about getting my suspension/springs adjusted. Also found myself driving over longitudinal road imperfections out of fear that they may "jump up and snag/destroy" my oil pan. Otherwise.. it was a blast. I got my plates this past week and had just mounted on my new wheels/tires. Yes I owe you all pictures and it looks so much better than it did on the 15"s and handles so much better as well. The 15's were 300 treadwear and 205 in front and 225 in back. I had driven those a handful of times relatively spiritively around the neighborhood the last few weeks. The NT01s I since mounted are 215 in front and 255 in back and so far they just plain hook up. I didn't experience any understeer or oversteer and was relatively generous on the go pedal. The only time the rear did want to come out and play was going over a bump in a turn while on the throttle. I found my WCM's chassis to be twitchy at best often when encountering the local SoCal canyon roads and I will need to figure a solution suspension wise, corner balance, and get an alignment... I put the WCM on jacks and will possibly take off and inspect the coilovers... verify the spring rates and theorize which springs to get... currently drooling over some swift springs in softer spring rates but also need to figure if I will need to get the shocks revalved... I'm running Koni coilovers currently. By the way... got a lot and I mean a lot of attention at the local gas station today putting in my first tank of gas which was an experience in itself... I just kept thinking to myself that grass and other crud was going to blow into the gas tank the whole time I was filling it up. Hence, I stopped at about 3/4 full and called it good.

Nitto NT01s, 100 treadwear. Front 215/45-17 Rear 255/40-17 Spirited Sunday Canyon Carving, Autocross once a month, Track a couple times a year.

This is what I just measured tonight: Front Shocks: Koni single adjustable The front springs are 3"OD 2.5 ID at 550 lbs., Length of spring sitting on work bench is greater than 6.5" (that is what I measured with it in the coilover at full extension). Shock compressed under body weight is 11.75" eye to eye. Fully extended eye to eye is 12" Rear Shocks: Koni single adjustable The rear springs are 3" OD 2.5 ID at 350 lbs., Length of spring sitting on work bench is 8". Shock compressed under weight of the body is 13" Fully extended eye to eye is 15". Still waiting on my plates to arrive so I can give it a thorough evaluation... at the present I am leaning towards going about 100-150 lb softer front and back.

WCM Ultralite S2K. Thanks for the input! Looks like I should get the spring rates I want first... get it corner balanced... then get it aligned...

I've been thinking about using known Miata setups as a starting point...

Greetings all, just mounted my new wheels and tires (will post pics soon), and after looking at everything it doesn't appear to be symmetric left and right when I measure it using my carpenters level... I don't think either that it has anything to do with being corner balanced...

Good catch, polished aluminum, not ss.

Great minds think a like... I used to wear a bright hi-viz orange helmet when I used to ride motorcycles... even had a hi-viz yellow 1-piece suit for a while as well... Did have the idea of putting a off-road vehicle whip like flag on the WCM... was thinking against that idea recently though. Part of plasti-dipping my WCM flat black is due to the handful of imperfections in the stainless steel skin of the car. I figured a flat black / textured finish would help mask them to some effect...

Now I've always been a fan of white since it is supposedly cooler and more visible... But I'd be lying if I didn't say that the matte black ones don't catch my eye. Seeing as it would be worn in a roadster I'm debating what makes the most sense... It makes it harder that my WCM well soon be flat black and carbon fiber

didn't want to admit it... but tried with all my might twisting it off... no luck. looking just below the knob.. it almost appears splined. Wonder if it is/was hammered on?

Perfect resource... thanks!:hurray:

Thinking about getting one like the 7" one here... http://www.twmshiftknobs.com/shiftknobs/shiftknobs_shop15.php?gearknob=Honda+S2000+AP2%202004-2009&twmonly= As long as it doesn't impede the view of the gauges it should work out... need to mock up a "tester" out of a paper towel roll and see if I like the ergonomics before pulling the trigger....

So mine has a 3-4" vertical aluminum style knob... I've been thinking about getting about a 6" vertical delrin style knob and am making the assumption that it is pretty much a stock S2000 tranny and that if I find one made for it I could just screw it in. What do you all run / like and please share any pictures if you don't mind. Cheers, Eric

I was thinking of removing my headlights on the WCM (which I've never been a big fan of... I do like how they look on Caterhams though) and installing a 12" or so LED light bar and squeezing it inside the front cowl so it is somewhat "tucked away" but still able to illuminate the road... thought to mount it to the radiator area/chassis vice hood. As for the mirrors, mine uses motorcycle mirrors mounted in the traditional mounting location but I was thinking about using stick on mirrors of a larger size.. possibly convex ones or something similar and putting them on/near the back of the front fenders where they would be out of sight when viewed from the front but would also provide possibly a better vantage point for the driver. Also wondering if anyone uses a "centered" rear view mirror? I have one on currently as it came with the WCM though it is rather unsightly. If I do ever turn the roll bar into a cage I would consider mounting something to that... but until then, wondering what anyone else may have done thus far... I should be plasti dipping my aluminum flat back in the next couple weeks.. getting my new wheels and will get some pictures up later. :cheers:

Greetings! So I have a 2.2 with low miles and have been wondering if I should invest in a shortened oil pan? Also, should I invest in one that is baffled? I plan on primarily driving this on Sundays on the street and occasionally autocross it or track it once a month or every other month...

Thanks! I somehow stumbled upon the exact same website and ordered 12 @ 1/2-20 and 12 @ M12x1.25 of their open ended alloy 35mm lug nuts.

I am beginning to learn this now... I will look to pick up a set ASAP... I can't stop but want to tinker with my WCM... bought a new steering wheel a few days back and the right adapter yesterday... hopefully they both arrive in the mail this next week.

What is the easiest and most inexpensive way to verify the sizes of my wheels studs? Currently I am debating buying single lug nuts from Autozone or some nuts from Home Depot or taking the nuts to Home Depot and verifying what size bolt fits the threads.... guess I'll be doing this and reporting back...

So I took off a lug from the front and the back and the back lug nut is definitely smaller than the front. I am quite sure I have 5x100 still for both hubs and now just need to get two sets of 10 lug nuts... many thanks :hurray:

Good call. I definitely know that the front studs appear long ARP bullet tips and the rear are quite short... will take them off and verify

Thank you!

I guess I could try to measure and/or count the threads. But is it 12x1.25? The same as what Subaru uses?