GunshipDriver

....what a blast it is/was. It is taking a while for me to get used to the steering and keeping in within the lines. On a bumpy road and the quick ratio of the steering rack I am often self wobbling the car along imperfect roads. That takes me to my next experience which was excessive rear lock up on hard braking when attempting to slow and swerve around "new" pot holes since discovered after the rains we've had. I was able to readjust the brake bias a few times and believe I have it where I want it now. But also, I found my car jumping off the pavement every now and then requiring me to think hard about getting my suspension/springs adjusted. Also found myself driving over longitudinal road imperfections out of fear that they may "jump up and snag/destroy" my oil pan. Otherwise.. it was a blast. I got my plates this past week and had just mounted on my new wheels/tires. Yes I owe you all pictures and it looks so much better than it did on the 15"s and handles so much better as well. The 15's were 300 treadwear and 205 in front and 225 in back. I had driven those a handful of times relatively spiritively around the neighborhood the last few weeks. The NT01s I since mounted are 215 in front and 255 in back and so far they just plain hook up. I didn't experience any understeer or oversteer and was relatively generous on the go pedal. The only time the rear did want to come out and play was going over a bump in a turn while on the throttle. I found my WCM's chassis to be twitchy at best often when encountering the local SoCal canyon roads and I will need to figure a solution suspension wise, corner balance, and get an alignment... I put the WCM on jacks and will possibly take off and inspect the coilovers... verify the spring rates and theorize which springs to get... currently drooling over some swift springs in softer spring rates but also need to figure if I will need to get the shocks revalved... I'm running Koni coilovers currently. By the way... got a lot and I mean a lot of attention at the local gas station today putting in my first tank of gas which was an experience in itself... I just kept thinking to myself that grass and other crud was going to blow into the gas tank the whole time I was filling it up. Hence, I stopped at about 3/4 full and called it good.

This is what I just measured tonight: Front Shocks: Koni single adjustable The front springs are 3"OD 2.5 ID at 550 lbs., Length of spring sitting on work bench is greater than 6.5" (that is what I measured with it in the coilover at full extension). Shock compressed under body weight is 11.75" eye to eye. Fully extended eye to eye is 12" Rear Shocks: Koni single adjustable The rear springs are 3" OD 2.5 ID at 350 lbs., Length of spring sitting on work bench is 8". Shock compressed under weight of the body is 13" Fully extended eye to eye is 15". Still waiting on my plates to arrive so I can give it a thorough evaluation... at the present I am leaning towards going about 100-150 lb softer front and back.

didn't want to admit it... but tried with all my might twisting it off... no luck. looking just below the knob.. it almost appears splined. Wonder if it is/was hammered on?

Perfect resource... thanks!:hurray:

Thinking about getting one like the 7" one here... http://www.twmshiftknobs.com/shiftknobs/shiftknobs_shop15.php?gearknob=Honda+S2000+AP2%202004-2009&twmonly= As long as it doesn't impede the view of the gauges it should work out... need to mock up a "tester" out of a paper towel roll and see if I like the ergonomics before pulling the trigger....

So mine has a 3-4" vertical aluminum style knob... I've been thinking about getting about a 6" vertical delrin style knob and am making the assumption that it is pretty much a stock S2000 tranny and that if I find one made for it I could just screw it in. What do you all run / like and please share any pictures if you don't mind. Cheers, Eric

I was thinking of removing my headlights on the WCM (which I've never been a big fan of... I do like how they look on Caterhams though) and installing a 12" or so LED light bar and squeezing it inside the front cowl so it is somewhat "tucked away" but still able to illuminate the road... thought to mount it to the radiator area/chassis vice hood. As for the mirrors, mine uses motorcycle mirrors mounted in the traditional mounting location but I was thinking about using stick on mirrors of a larger size.. possibly convex ones or something similar and putting them on/near the back of the front fenders where they would be out of sight when viewed from the front but would also provide possibly a better vantage point for the driver. Also wondering if anyone uses a "centered" rear view mirror? I have one on currently as it came with the WCM though it is rather unsightly. If I do ever turn the roll bar into a cage I would consider mounting something to that... but until then, wondering what anyone else may have done thus far... I should be plasti dipping my aluminum flat back in the next couple weeks.. getting my new wheels and will get some pictures up later. :cheers:

Greetings! So I have a 2.2 with low miles and have been wondering if I should invest in a shortened oil pan? Also, should I invest in one that is baffled? I plan on primarily driving this on Sundays on the street and occasionally autocross it or track it once a month or every other month...

Thanks! I somehow stumbled upon the exact same website and ordered 12 @ 1/2-20 and 12 @ M12x1.25 of their open ended alloy 35mm lug nuts.

I am beginning to learn this now... I will look to pick up a set ASAP... I can't stop but want to tinker with my WCM... bought a new steering wheel a few days back and the right adapter yesterday... hopefully they both arrive in the mail this next week.

What is the easiest and most inexpensive way to verify the sizes of my wheels studs? Currently I am debating buying single lug nuts from Autozone or some nuts from Home Depot or taking the nuts to Home Depot and verifying what size bolt fits the threads.... guess I'll be doing this and reporting back...

So I took off a lug from the front and the back and the back lug nut is definitely smaller than the front. I am quite sure I have 5x100 still for both hubs and now just need to get two sets of 10 lug nuts... many thanks :hurray:

Good call. I definitely know that the front studs appear long ARP bullet tips and the rear are quite short... will take them off and verify

Thank you!

I guess I could try to measure and/or count the threads. But is it 12x1.25? The same as what Subaru uses?

It looks like a lot of owners run a larger rear diameter tire than the front. I understand that it comes that way "from the factory" for the WCM and also the Caterhams. Currently thinking: Front: 215 45 17 (24.5" diameter) Rear: 245 45 17 (26.0" diameter) Should I consider the 245 40 17 (24.7" diameter) instead which gets the diameter of the rear closer to that of the front?

Thanks, I will try those "kics"

Was doing some research on the matter and was reading online that the Caterham CSR uses: Tires: Avon CR500's, 195/45 R15 front, 245/40 R15 rear and that those tires are supposedly a tread wear rating of 20... Gonna pull the trigger on some wheels tonight and tires tomorrow... will post pics and info later.

I appreciate every ones patience with me. I will pony up the extra money and do it right as you all are helping me to do. I am thinking Toyo r1rs.

Greetings again. So I have a new to me WCM Ultralite. I've heard that I should run a softer compound than 200 tread wear. Has anyone run anything at 200 or harder with positive results? I am considering Michelin Pilot Super Sports or Bridgestone Potenza S04 Pole Position which are harder than 200 but available through Costco for me at a reasonable price. They both get good reviews but I do not know if they would work for a vehicle as light as a 7 clone. I plan on driving the car in sunny warm California weather only.

Looking at wheel options and found some that are et45 in front vice et35 which would mean about a 10mm spacer, not hub centric. Any one else run spacers?

Now that I've seen the light and will run staggered width wheels front and back, I'm trying to figure out all options for wheels with bolt patterns and offsets that might work. Running 18"wheels gives me more options.

Talked with the P.O. I have 550F and 350R springs. May look into softer springs down the road but want to get new wheels and tires first for a few different reasons--ground clearance, fender well gap, and grip being among them. I am now considering the following wheels 17x8 ET35 and 17x9 ET42

These are the wheels I am considering... Front http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-New-17X8-35-Offset-5x100-5x114-3-DRAG-DR-31-Bronze-Wheel-Rim-/191106219782?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item2c7ed17f06&vxp=mtr Back http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-New-17X9-38-Offset-5x100-5x114-3-DRAG-DR-31-Bronze-Wheel-Rim-/191106192125?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item2c7ed112fd&vxp=mtr

Great point... This is a Sunday driver and occasional autocross/track car. Having two herniated discs in my back already I like the idea of 400F / 200R springs...