GunshipDriver

for $15k I think a nice locost likely with a R1 engine is what you will fine... it would be very difficult to find a seven with a S2k motor for that price range. for $15k I would consider a miata with a V8 swap...

Sold

My sentiments exactly and thanks for the bump!

Here is the link for my WCM for sale: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171524580542?forcerRptr=true&item=171524580542&viewitem= Moving overseas and can't take it with me. Starting at $20k with no reserve.

Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171524580542?forcerRptr=true&item=171524580542&viewitem= Starting at $20k with no reserve.

USA7S price reduced to $25,500. Extra alloy wheels are no longer included. Race wheels are still included.

1,300 pounds, 240HP, 0-60 in 3.5 seconds. Selling due to getting stationed overseas in 6 months. As much as I love this roadster, it does not make sense for me to store it for 3+ years and just have it sit. Mileage will go up as I am autocrossing it this upcoming weekend and driving it occasionally while I still own it. Title free and clear and clean and in hand. Comes with Carbon Fiber Cowl, Koni single adjustable shocks, Carbotech LSD, and many other farkles. Comes with an additional set of 15" alloy street wheels (and tires with good tread) and another set of 15" Diamond Racing steel wheels 8" front and 10" rear on Hoosier slicks with an extra two Hoosiers. Has a F22 motor and transmission from a 2004 S2000. Body is not perfect as it is difficult with the aluminum body panels to keep it so. There was an impact to the rear driver side that has been repaired and does not affect the handling dynamics of the vehicle. Email elum79 at hotmail dot com or call/text 626 four two three 8302. Asking $27,500. Price reduced to $25,500. Extra alloy wheels no longer included. http://images.craigslist.org/00R0R_fdLq5pmJtDh_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/00C0C_g6TZkG5qa4c_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/00303_gPIPyNR4KcI_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/00V0V_97IokRz612E_600x450.jpg

Looking at the distance between mounting points. The back part of the rear upper and lower control arms are 7" apart vertically. This is about the same the way they are currently mounted to the hub (hence the long extension on the 5/8" through bolt). To connect the back lower control arm closer to the hub (removing the aluminum spacer) would create a vertical separation distance of about 6.5"... That said, the rear suspension would then lose some of its negative camber while the tire/wheel cycles up through the full range of travel. Also, I haven't tried doing this yet but I am not sure if the control arm can span/reach that distance in its stock configuration and will limit its range of adjustments....

I don't have much extra space to play with on my car... ended up using the "heat issue" to justify getting an entry level sparco race suit.

I really like this solution. I was giving some thought to doing similar with a slightly larger piece of 6061 Aluminum. I was thinking a large rectangular piece of about 3/8" thickness... just need to ensure the hole get drilled at the correct angle for the bottom one. That said, the more I stare at the imaginary upper and lower a-arms and they way the vehicle is set up... I understand why the rear part of the lower a-arm needs to be mounted lower on the hub vice the open hole immediately below the rear part of the upper a-arm as you want them to be roughly parallel to allow the suspension to cycle freely up and down as triangulating it vertically would be bad. On that note... I don't see what would be so bad with adjusting how it triangulates in the "horizontal" plane. Why not just remove the long spacer, use a shorter 5/8" bolt, and attach the rear part of the lower a-arm there. Sure it might slighly affect how the toe or other alignment facets may change during the cycling of the suspension, however, I don't see it being quite so negative that the benefits do not outweigh the cost. Could someone please set me straight or enlighten me as required.

I am an idiot. I just cranked them out longer. The CV joints should be able to handle it. I am thinking that the alignment place when trying to get the 1.5 negative camber all around cranked the rear driver top "a-arm" (the two control rods that make up the virtual a-arm" all the way in in back and created a situation for binding he did not realize...

Trying to figure out if I can push the rear hub out further to try and modify the angle so that the upper control arm no longer rubs on the coilover in the back of the WCM. Been wondering if I could just remove the upper control arm all together possibly... Do I really need all 5 control arms on each side? Not sure if I'm willing to test it out myself though... If anyone has any input on how to adjust the control arms to make it work please send it.:cheers:

The rod/bolt that I am having an issue with is the one that is a control arm hanger welded to a long rod that goes lengthwise through the rear hub and exits the back where it connects to a heim and is threaded on the end. That one has bent inward from where it exits the hub. A brace would help, but I am wondering if I have to straighten it as it seems to be a one off part...

Evilromeo, thanks for the info... I'll look to get one this weekend and later a brace / support

Nice setup MM. I've also given thought to mounting lights atop the front fenders so they would point where you turn...