GunshipDriver

for $15k I think a nice locost likely with a R1 engine is what you will fine... it would be very difficult to find a seven with a S2k motor for that price range. for $15k I would consider a miata with a V8 swap...

Sold

My sentiments exactly and thanks for the bump!

Here is the link for my WCM for sale: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171524580542?forcerRptr=true&item=171524580542&viewitem= Moving overseas and can't take it with me. Starting at $20k with no reserve.

Here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171524580542?forcerRptr=true&item=171524580542&viewitem= Starting at $20k with no reserve.

USA7S price reduced to $25,500. Extra alloy wheels are no longer included. Race wheels are still included.

1,300 pounds, 240HP, 0-60 in 3.5 seconds. Selling due to getting stationed overseas in 6 months. As much as I love this roadster, it does not make sense for me to store it for 3+ years and just have it sit. Mileage will go up as I am autocrossing it this upcoming weekend and driving it occasionally while I still own it. Title free and clear and clean and in hand. Comes with Carbon Fiber Cowl, Koni single adjustable shocks, Carbotech LSD, and many other farkles. Comes with an additional set of 15" alloy street wheels (and tires with good tread) and another set of 15" Diamond Racing steel wheels 8" front and 10" rear on Hoosier slicks with an extra two Hoosiers. Has a F22 motor and transmission from a 2004 S2000. Body is not perfect as it is difficult with the aluminum body panels to keep it so. There was an impact to the rear driver side that has been repaired and does not affect the handling dynamics of the vehicle. Email elum79 at hotmail dot com or call/text 626 four two three 8302. Asking $27,500. Price reduced to $25,500. Extra alloy wheels no longer included. http://images.craigslist.org/00R0R_fdLq5pmJtDh_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/00C0C_g6TZkG5qa4c_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/00303_gPIPyNR4KcI_600x450.jpg http://images.craigslist.org/00V0V_97IokRz612E_600x450.jpg

Looking at the distance between mounting points. The back part of the rear upper and lower control arms are 7" apart vertically. This is about the same the way they are currently mounted to the hub (hence the long extension on the 5/8" through bolt). To connect the back lower control arm closer to the hub (removing the aluminum spacer) would create a vertical separation distance of about 6.5"... That said, the rear suspension would then lose some of its negative camber while the tire/wheel cycles up through the full range of travel. Also, I haven't tried doing this yet but I am not sure if the control arm can span/reach that distance in its stock configuration and will limit its range of adjustments....

I don't have much extra space to play with on my car... ended up using the "heat issue" to justify getting an entry level sparco race suit.

I really like this solution. I was giving some thought to doing similar with a slightly larger piece of 6061 Aluminum. I was thinking a large rectangular piece of about 3/8" thickness... just need to ensure the hole get drilled at the correct angle for the bottom one. That said, the more I stare at the imaginary upper and lower a-arms and they way the vehicle is set up... I understand why the rear part of the lower a-arm needs to be mounted lower on the hub vice the open hole immediately below the rear part of the upper a-arm as you want them to be roughly parallel to allow the suspension to cycle freely up and down as triangulating it vertically would be bad. On that note... I don't see what would be so bad with adjusting how it triangulates in the "horizontal" plane. Why not just remove the long spacer, use a shorter 5/8" bolt, and attach the rear part of the lower a-arm there. Sure it might slighly affect how the toe or other alignment facets may change during the cycling of the suspension, however, I don't see it being quite so negative that the benefits do not outweigh the cost. Could someone please set me straight or enlighten me as required.

I am an idiot. I just cranked them out longer. The CV joints should be able to handle it. I am thinking that the alignment place when trying to get the 1.5 negative camber all around cranked the rear driver top "a-arm" (the two control rods that make up the virtual a-arm" all the way in in back and created a situation for binding he did not realize...

Trying to figure out if I can push the rear hub out further to try and modify the angle so that the upper control arm no longer rubs on the coilover in the back of the WCM. Been wondering if I could just remove the upper control arm all together possibly... Do I really need all 5 control arms on each side? Not sure if I'm willing to test it out myself though... If anyone has any input on how to adjust the control arms to make it work please send it.:cheers:

The rod/bolt that I am having an issue with is the one that is a control arm hanger welded to a long rod that goes lengthwise through the rear hub and exits the back where it connects to a heim and is threaded on the end. That one has bent inward from where it exits the hub. A brace would help, but I am wondering if I have to straighten it as it seems to be a one off part...

Agree, but it is worthwhile starting from a point where both sides of the car are symmetrical in appearance. now the mounts need to be square and symmetrical as well... the alignment initially done was sub par. Talked with the owner proprietor on the phone and he said he would try to make it right.

Evilromeo, thanks for the info... I'll look to get one this weekend and later a brace / support

Nice setup MM. I've also given thought to mounting lights atop the front fenders so they would point where you turn...

Thanks!

Anyone use LED lights on their seven? I've done some research on them in general and would like to make the swap. Also, anyone eve get harassed or a ticket for not using dot approved lights? I'd like to remove my current headlights from my S2K and replace with LED lights mounted in the noise cone / cowl.

Didn't think I'd do quite so well but the S2K is good at inspiring confidence in the turns. Spun out twice, once in two different sections where I got greedy with the go pedal. It is fun getting this car on the edge of its limits in regards to rear end traction. After everything found out my alignment isn't all that good as when I measured the various control arms they were all different lengths. The got close to the alignment numbers I wanted but it appears they tried to make the minimal amount of adjustments to do so. I.e. my front driver arms are longer than the passenger front and my left wheelbase is about .5" longer than the right. On a vanity and possibly slight performance note I gave in and ordered 38mm rear bolt on spacers a the fender gap was killing me every time I looked at the S2K

On my rear passenger hub there is a horizontal rod/tube longitudinal with the car that exits the lower back part of the hub going straight back before being connected to a control arm. That rod/tube of mine is bent inwards towards the center of the car. Also, a long grade 8 bolt that locates the bottom end of the rear coilover is bent and I noticed some running after my recent alignment on my rear driver coilover on a control arm. Any suggestions? My main priority is a replacement for the bent rod/tube

I'm out here in California and might consider selling mine in the next few months before deployment... still on the fence about it.

Just reshuffled (literally) my suspension set up and am definitely happier now than I was before. Replaced my rear Hypercoil 2.25"ID, 8" long, 350# springs with Eibach 2.25"ID, 8" long, 225# springs... much better for what I'm looking for as a canyon carver and part time track vehicle. Even with 550# fronts it wasn't too bad, but definitely a bit stiff up front and I wondered about getting some 450#s to replace them. Then on a whim when removing the front Koni coilovers I decided to swap out the 2.25"ID, 7", 550# Hypercoils for my old rears, the 2.25"ID, 8", 350# Hypercoils. Swapped everything over and it ran great and the front end felt a lot more planted afterwards. That said, I ended up bottoming out on a canyon run while test driving the set-up. Found out later it was a longitudinal blister in the pavement that runs down the center of the lane that did it. Did a quick check of my 6 o'clock and saw no fluid dripping from the car. Pulled over at the gated entrance to one of the many ranch/mansion homes in the area and it all looked fine underneath. Got home, added about 1" of preload in front on each coilover and drove it again. Definitely much stiffer up front but not overly harsh. I might take a few turns out later at some point in the future and/or purchase new springs...

Update: Ended up getting a flat black Pyrotect Helmet with Duckbill. It came with a wing that you can attach with included double stick tape but looks rather flimsy albeit definitely cool looking. Have not yet pulled the trigger on trying to attach it. Did pony up the few extra bucks and got a blue chrome visor to go with it and it completes the deal when I pull up alongside a full-size SUV in my glorified go-kart.

You are the man! That is what I want... or rather what I want at the moment. It is I believe the same that I saw used on the Factory Five race cars here in these links: http://www.jeepingoffroad.com/factory_five_challenge_car.htm http://boothmanracing.com/car.htm https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/factory-five-818r-competes-in-2013-ultimate-track-car-challenge/ I still need to really decide on the exterior aesthetics... more track inspired or old school GT. I do also like the other suggestions offered that are less conspicuous... Many thanks all around! :hurray:

I've seen a few on various roadsters and wanted to ask what you all have possibly used that works well for a Lotus Seven clone. I am not sure if I can commit to anything at this point and am considering using a suction RAM mount to hold a rear view mirror that would be functional and easily adjustable/removable....