Blindcars

Found this link today and thought i would share as it wasnt an easy web page to find http://www.suspension.com/4-bar.htm

@jmrankin.. Where might the pictures be posted? Im also looking at ebay for the linear acuator rails so cost might be substantially lower.

My new chassis didnt have the pedal carriage mounting rails on it sp i have been looking at ways to improve on the original design which use basicaly "drawer slides" to allow adjusent of the pedals. Lorren mentionef there has been failures of the slides and ive also been told of deflection of the slides when pushing on the pedals ( some have installed a clamp to "lock" the pedal carriage in place). I am leaning towards a round rail with a circular nylon bearing ( the "bearing" rides around the rail" and has close tolerances to elimenate slop ). It is designed for manufacturing purposes i.e. Linear actuators. http://www.igus.com/drylin The local sales rep is great and is running by the engineers what i am trying to accomplish and to see what their recomendations on which slide might work the best for this application. Going to also be interesting to see what the cist is lol. I kinda lean towards i dont mind paying a little extra for reliabilty and safety. On a secondary note, i am also going to be using stainless tubing and " Swagelock" fittings for my fuel and brake lines. Easy to fabricate and service ( they make tubing to AN fittings for the transition to flex lines. Rated to 10k psi so pressure isnt an issue. Assembling the fittings is a snap and installed corectly never leak. Same fitting can be dissambled and be reassembled in a snap and not leak. Yea, i know, not DOT approved .... You just dont want to mix fitting components from various mfg. Thats where reliability issues arise. The fittings are a little pricey but i happen to have some around from my IE days in the perrochemicsl industry. I might have to swallow a little hard when i have to buy the ones that adapt from the tubing to AN but.., Thoughts?

Forgot to ask this question too . Im still in the "pre-assembly stage", putting the car together rough (no powdercoat, no paint, etc..) and then have to take it all back apart once i know things are right... So will it hurt the tires not getting used per se for about a year? I know i need to find the newest date code i can when i buy my tires, rotate tires occasionally so they don't develop flat spots, but is there any other ill affects i need to worry about? Rims get ordered Monday . Team dynamic race 1.2 in anthracite grey

Have any of you that have run both that the R888's tend to grab / throw stones more than the RA1's? That seems to be a common coment on various performance car forums. Like R888 is a little " gummier ". Also a common comment os that the RA1's just seem to get better and better, never really wear out, great right up until the threads pop out.

So the choice is between RA1's or R888's. The reviews on both are phenomenal and I've noticed lots here run the R 888's and some have run the RA1's . From those with experience what is the main differences when it comes down to choosing one versus the other? Thanks Leo

The recomended offset is a 43 but would a 45 offset be fine if still using 275/40 Toyo R888's? Found a set of Team Dynamics im interested in from the importer in CA. The rears might only be available in a 40 or 45 offset. Leo

Sorry.. Typo. Meant 90 duro a

After lots more research i am in agreement and thanks for the suggestions. Im thinking about an 80 to 85 duro a hardness. Depending on the results after its on the road i mught have to revisit the hardness if the material. Good point on the inner steel bushing and i had already planned to do that . What do you think of the 80 hardness? Leo

My new chassis has " flash " rust on it but i don't see it as an issue because the powder coating company will media blast it before powder coating. Great point Subtle z28. Been doing that as i work my way from the rear to the front.. Cleaning up all the welds if needed also .Pre assembly seems like a pia but it keeps your final canvas clean and sweet looking. ) Leo

I am finally getting the fact that nothing was ever really standardized when it came to the general fabrication of the WCM Ultralight. A shame in certain ways as consistency and standardization typically leads to lower production costs which might have led to more of them being out there.. Ah well lol, i digress and on to the point : The two welded in tubes that house the differential support bushings on my new chassis are a different size than the ones on the chassis that originally came with my car so i decoded to have Delrin bushings machined for the new chassis. Howevrr, before the Delron rod goes to the machinist i wanted to get some input on wether i should use Delrin or Polyurethane for them ? Using Delrin, there will essential be tge same as using aluminum bushings there as Delrin has almost no compression characteritics. Polyurethane on the other hand has " some " compression characteristics. So my question actually is. : Will "rigidly " mounting the diff affect anything long or short term ? I know there is probably going to be more vibration transmitted to the chassis thru those two points than if using rubber but am i going to be placing more stress into the chassis ? Im also going to use the same material for the front diff mount ... Thoughts? Next question is : should i use a steel sleeve in the center of the bushings to protect the amount " if any " that it can compress? What have others used? Thanks Leo Appreciate

It is but the GRACIOUS owner (lorren) drove down to Austin just to bring me a chassis and to be around to introduce me to the caretaker of the car i rode in. Now that is service!!! That smile still hasn't gone away . I do know this: having one in my garage completed will be worth all the effort and money outlay!!!! Totally outrageous ride ! When it gets done i will have to find an empty track somewheres so I can drive it myself. Leo Leo

Went to Austin today, picked up my new chassisi (sp ) and had my first glimpse, touch, and rode in an ultralight. All i can say is WOW. And WOW, and am still on a high from the ride!! Talk about a motivaion speech... The sound of the car is like fine music and the explosive nature of the car has left me awed and i cant get that damn grin off my face . Now, its time to get serious with my build ). What a greattt day!! Thanks Lorren and Shannon !!

Does anybody have a picture of the rear caliper mount that is used with the Wilwood Dynalite caliper and the stock Subaru rotor (10.5)? Also, examing the fit of the Wilwood caliper and pads to the 10.5 stock rotor why is it that it seems like the pads are only going to be contacted on about half of the pad (in other words the rotor will only be being grabbed by 1/2 of the height of the pads? Is that the way its supposed to be? Doesnt seem right.. It seems to me that a smaller caliper is needed ( the curve of the caliper will be smaller in radius thus alowing more of the pad to contact the rotor... Am i correct or am i missing something here? But if a smaller caliper were used ( no, im mot talking about piston dia, rather the size of the caliper body), a person would need different pads too though ( smaller surface area... Can anybody enlighten me??

Havent posted for a while but have been reading the archives and learning about our cars. Project wise on the car.... Lets just say there was a fatal mistake made when the body was designed for the car and it wasn't one that could be corrected without major expense and possibly not even then. It couldn't be adjusted out and would have required either reworking the chassis or substantial modification of the body. Soooo, if anyone knows of someone looking for a body to build a track car under I have one for sale. All of the parts are going to be transferred over to a new frame that Loren had hanging around and a new Ultralite will emerge from this journey. I have a couple of ideas in my mind and cant wait to join the ranks of a running and driving Ultralight If it hadn't been for Lorens incredible patience with my endless requests for how this or that was made and Jerry Eddens assistance with pictures I might have thrown up my hands and abandoned ship. Anyways, when Loren gets some time to transfer a frame into my possession the quest will renew. When I get finished I swear there is going to arise a manual detailing the Ultralight (think Ultralight for Dummies) lol. Final note.... Trust me when I say Loren is a rare bird!!!:hurray::cheers:

Mine are 5" stroke. Do not tell me the stroke is too long and will need replacing please lol...

Got the hiem joint bolt problem resolved although I am awaiting the joints (on back order with a three week wait). Meanwhile the hubs are at the machine shop getting new bearings pressed in, mods done to the new front hub, and lots of parts coming in everyday. Soooo.. Its back to the drivetrain to wrap up some loose ends there. 1st, does anyone have the part number for the new serpentine belt I will need due to no AC? 2nd, anybody have pics of what their coolant recovery system looks like or recommendations on what to design in? The radiator is installed but my hoses are just dangling in open air, no filler neck or anything, so Im wondering what others systems look like. Thanks Leo

Have a question on hiem joints, specifically the heads of the bolts and their fitment in the bracket. Im going to install the upgraded hiem joints and shoulder bolts. Are the bolts supposed to have a specific height ? Are the tops of the heads supposed to protrude somewhat from the bracket? The heads of the new shoulder bolts are .394 high. They are recessed in tge bracket and very little of tge head is actually inside the outside bracket ear. Is this fine? I got bolts that are just like the ones referenced in the upgrade manual.

Car is home. parts are on order and Loren has been going nuts with my questions LOL. I will post pics soon and then more as work progresses. I do want to let everyone know how lucky they are that Loren owns WCM as I have a funny feeling support for the Ultralight will never be lacking. What a knowledge base. Well,, sometimes he might have a fuzzy memory due to age :^P)!

I had a 7'wide by 16' long Pace Enclosed car trailer for several years that I used to haul my bugeye in. It had a 6.4 inside height so was kind of cramped when standing upright in it but the lower height helped considerably on the wind resistance. Definitely get a V nose, definitely dual axels , and for ride quality torsion bar axels. Brake controller a must for safety reasons. I tow with an 2003 4 door F250 diesel so sway bars and equalizer hitch I don't need. Fuel mileage...19 to 20 mpg. Oh yea... 7.3 powerstrokin LEO

I am looking for (2) two, QA1 82 series red anodized shock bodies if anyone has a set lying around. I would like them for the new car and I have two new ones and would like to have matching color ones all the way around. I can have them rebuilt so I am really only needing the housings to be in good shape. Brian was really big on them so hopefully there is a set out there from off an ultralight. Thanks

Like your dash layout Mondo and the breaker location. Thanks Leo

Forgot to add... I think the blue one is more visually pleasing. the front leading edge looks awkward to me in some ways but.... lol. Do you know where the mold for the blue body went?

WOW!! Where did you get those pictures??? Do tell... @BruceK : I was thinking the exact same thing about the dash. Do you have one? Also all those circuit breakers have to go somewhere else. Going to look at that long and hard. I like the circuit breakers like in airplane much better and don't feel the need for them to be on dash.

Going to have to see what can be fitted. Late Audi ? Hid or LED hopefully. Definetly w lexan covers