jevs

It does appear that thin plate eliminates the need for these stupid plastic covers. It is impossible to even find the correct bolt for these....none of the parts diagrams for the LS3 give a part number for the bolt. I already ordered an aluminum bell housing though.

Anyone put this combo together and bothered with the flywheel inspection covers on each side? The Corvette and Camaro have different part numbers. I cannot figure out which ones might fit with this hardware combo. This is not a combo that comes from the factory. I would pick Camaro, but since I have the Corvette oil pan I don't know..... Camaro 2010 SS 92057931 COVER. Flywheel & Clutch & Converter Housing. 92169247 COVER. Flywheel & Clutch & Converter Housing. 2009 Corvette Base 24232355 COVER. Transmission Case. 12562042 COVER. Transmission Case.

I added a tab to the dash that will get sandwiched between the tunnel panels to hold it solid. The front panel piece will get a notch to match the tab.

Made some shims for the side panels. The distance between the bends makes the sides bow, so I added 1/8" shims between the bottom lip and the floor panels. This pulls the sides tight and straight. It also draws the front edge nice and tight against the square tube. I also started on the dash and got it fitted. I just have to trim the outer edge. I can't say I miss playing with fiberglass. I can also finish the tunnel top now.

The metal needs to be bare and clean for powder coat or it will have problems, especially if whatever is on there reacts or melts at 400º. I would not want to use anything that will not clean off easily. I would blast it lightly (hopefully no heavy rust since using the rust protectant), then clean it with lacquer thinner, acetone, or something, then run it through the oven once bare. Then wipe it down again, then coat and bake. That's how I generally do it. If it is a simple part with no cracks or crevices for stuff to hide, or a new part never exposed to anything then you can skip the pre-bake most of the time.

I ordered a couple bottles of the Rust Block on Amazon. If it works decent I can use it on my machines too. I have a feeling it is basically the same as the coolant used in the mill or bandsaw. You mix that with water and it also creates a rust barrier when it dries. I trust oils more though . I just don't want oils on my frame because if they don't come out of all the cracks and crevices when you clean it before powder coating, then they surely will when it hits 400º.

More aluminum done.

What tire size are you going to run with the 3.23's? Are you using the same transmission as me? Edit: I see from your build that your using a different trans, so our ratios will be a lot different (aside from the diff ratio).

Well, I just made my decision I am going 3.42 Got this new diff on eBay for $445 with a best offer http://www.ebay.com/itm/cadillac-GM-25873500-CARRIER-ASM-DIFF-3-42-RATIO-TIO-/281398174010?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4184a3613a&vxp=mtr

There is one out there, but I don't think it is done yet?? A GM paddle shifted auto would not be like a Ferrari or Lamborghini. Its just an automatic with a torque converter and paddle shift controls (slower shift). I have read they can be sped up a little with programming. The paddle shift cars that use an automated clutch are actually faster around the track than a manual, but they eat clutches fast and they are expensive and not as friendly on the street.

The 3.42 is the best deal price wise. The 3.73 is also hard to find right now. Only 2 in the country available at the moment and you would have to buy them from those dealers, and they most likely won't match these prices. I know one won't for sure. I did not ask the other yet because I want to figure out which ratio I want for sure. Ratio P/N ~Price 3.73 25873497 $804.57 3.42 25873500 $696.76 3.23 25978162 $736.65 The 3.23 would put my gearing pretty darn close to a stock C6 Z06.

I can see where 1st gear would be pretty bad for you That jump from 3rd to 4th is pretty big too. Here is your car plugged into my initial post so you can compare. 1st 42 2nd 60 3rd 87 4th 124 5th 147 6th 197 RPM @70 MPH 2027 25.03" Diameter Tire

If we compare to yours, we probably need to know the transmission and tire specs. This is what I based those numbers on above. Model:TUET11009 Transmission:T56 Magnum Close Ratio Engine:LS376/480 Gear 1st 2.660 2nd 1.780 3rd 1.300 4th 1.000 5th 0.800 6th 0.630 Reverse 2.900 Rear Tire Size 315/30R18 Wheel 18" x 10.5" Tire Diameter 25.440" So, is there anything much different about yours than this, and are you happy with the 3.42 ? 3.73 was recommended to me, but I am not so sure after looking at these numbers....???

3.23, 3.42, or 3.73 Here are some quick numbers and a couple stock comparison cars with LS3 motors also. This is shifting out at 6200. Of course it negates wind resistance etc. Numbers are in MPH. 3.23 3.42 3.73 Vette Camaro 1st 55 52 47 54 51 2nd 82 77 71 81 74 3rd 112 106 97 111 107 4th 145 137 126 145 153 5th 182 172 157 196 182 6th 231 218 200 289 269 RPM @70 MPH 1881 1992 2173 1504 1614

The only long flange pieces I think I have are the car sides and they have two flanges. I believe all the side tunnel and stuff are 14.25"

Hip panels and tunnel in. Slow going so far. It is taking a little longer because my car and panels aren't quite the same as the videos. Figuring out how to make the back of the tunnel fit nice took awhile. If you cut the seat back per the videos, then it is hard to figure out what to do with the gaps. The U shaped tunnel is just trimmed in the back with no flanges (unlike the 3 pieces in the video). So it is hard to make no gaps and get the metal to clear welds. I ended up using door edge on the rear of the tunnel where it butts to the seat back. This helps take up the gap left if you cut the seat back large enough to compensate for the welds. It also holds the back of the tunnel up letting it roll up above the weld cutouts. I basically shaped the top of the seat back tunnel to the shape of the welds, so you couldn't get it any closer than I did. It's hard to tell in the pictures with all the paper on there, but it joins up nice and looks clean. No flanges and no screws in the area between the seats above the tunnel.

I got my CNC mill computer on the network so I could use it to view the build files and videos in the shop. The phone was not cutting it. I get frustrated without a keyboard and mouse. The floor pans and seat back are done. I plan to start on the hip panels tomorrow. I have to replace another light ballast though. These dang Lowes lights I put in when I built the house are junk. I think this is the 4th ballast to go out. Hopefully the new ones I have been putting in are better. So far none of those have failed and they don't seem to buzz as much.

I got the engine mounted to my stand and pulled the Camaro oil pan, dipstick, and deflector. Corvette pan is backordered, but Summit wanted me to send these parts back for the exchange. I got a couple parts today from them that weren't backordered (dipstick, dipstick tube, and pickup seal).

Anyone do anything to treat their frame and parts to inhibit rust while they put things together the first time?

I don't think I will be paying for the dipstick, so I will take what they give me

These motors now all come with flex plate and Camaro pans. This is what they ordered for me to convert it. Chevrole Performancemance Engine Oil Pans 12624617 Oil Pan, Rear Wet Sump, 1-piece Rear Main Seal Style, Aluminum, Natural, Chevy, 6.0L LS, 6.2L LS3, 6.2L LS9 SEAL 12584922 DEFLECTOR 12558189 TUBE 12570787 C6 Dipstick 12570788

Ls376/480

FedEx just dropped off a little 480 HP package for me Thanks Summit Racing for price matching, and free shipping (2 days in stock).

I got one project done tonight that was in the way, cleaned the garage out, and got everything unpacked finally. So much for parking in the garage for awhile...

I already have the car at home! So far the Brunton service is great. 2 weeks and only a couple days discussion prior and they were able to pull this off in time for me to take advantage of being in Florida for vacation. Starting a build thread here: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?p=87502#post87502