jevs

Flush won't work for the location I am doing. The problem with all those stalks is that they are single filament or single LED. I needed dual filament so I can have the parking light and blinker in the same light. Dual filament narrows the choices dramatically. Mine are now ordered. So I am moving on to the next items in the parts list to research and order. Hopefully I will be back to actually working on the car again soon and making progress that gets seen.

Found one with these same lights on it, but mounted to the fiberglass and in chrome. I am ordering the black ones. They will look a little more hidden where I will put them.

I found the black ones in a chrome version too. I am leaning towards this style since you had problems with the others. Might as well try something else. Also, these are shorter, I think, in case anything is in the way (control arms). I think the actual lens area may be bigger also which is a plus for safety. Not that it matters a whole lot, but it looks like they match my tail lights a little better too. now, chrome or black is the choice.

The lamp heat should be a non issue. The LED's won't get as hot. As for the rest, only one way to find out. There will also not be any delicate filaments. None of the rest of the lamps on the car have rubber stalks, so I would say these are no more prone to failure than the other stuff. I can't speak for the Chinese build quality until I actually try some. For $20-25 a pair I really wouldn't spend any more time worrying about it. I would just replace them if they did have an issue later. I like the black ones because they are black and more inconspicuous. Especially if I paint my car a dark color. I am trying to stay away from shiny stuff as much as I can. However, the chrome ones would match my headlight buckets more....tough choice. They both mount the same, so I could always change my mind later I suppose.

I think I have narrowed it down to two choices. I will convert either of these to LED. Finding a two input LED is hard and the ones I did see cost hundreds of dollars. Both say they are 2" diameter. Both have a dome shape lens for better side and front viewing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DIA-TURNSIGNAL-CUSTOM-AMBER-DUAL-FILAMENT-BLACK-BULLET-LIGHTS-SET-HARLEY-/321368255868?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad30a6d7c&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DIA-TURNSIGNAL-CUSTOM-AMBER-DUAL-FILAMENT-BLACK-BULLET-LIGHTS-SET-HARLEY-/321368255868?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad30a6d7c&vxp=mtr

I can't remember where I ordered from (wherever was cheaper). But Summit and Jegs may sell the Casper kits. Can't really recall.

I will try to avoid mounting anything to the fiberglass, but if I were to need that, I have a huge selection of 3 different types of weather tight connectors on hand to pick from. These are the 3 kits I keep on hand among some other misc junk. http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=682 http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=686 http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=691

I am not building an M spec Its really a Classic R XL I suppose. But yeah, I saw some like yours as I was browsing for a couple hours. So far I like this idea the best.

Yeah I found some pictures where they mounted bullets in front of the control arms just behind the body and mounted from the frame as far as I can tell. I might do this. I think I am just going to order some decent looking LED bullets and figure out where to put them later. I spent all weekend researching and ordering parts. I think that is more exhausting than building.

I am not seeing a lot of good front turn signal locations. I can no longer have them in the front headlights because I have purchased LED headlights. Brunton is putting a strip of LED's under the front fender. I am not sure I like that spot. Anything flinging off the tires will hit them. Also I would rather not run any wires out to the font fenders if I can keep from it. I was thinking a bullet LED under the headlights, but those are blocked from side view. The Caterhams have their lights way out front, so it works on those, but these lights are set back. Looking for ideas.

So far I am doing all LED. Debating on the headlights now. Thinking of going LED there too, but that messes up the idea of the integrated parking lights/turn signals in the lamp.

I already ordered those ones above, much smaller. Not sure how bright they will be until they get here.

After a bunch of searching through all these Chinese LED's, I am going to try a couple of these supposed Cree LED lights. 23MM CREE LED Eagle Eye http://www.ebay.com/itm/201125840360 $10.63 shipped for a pair. There are cheaper ones, but these are the only ones I could find with this LED in them. The others have more of a blue hue. Not sure where I will put them yet.

Anyone running separate back up lights? I am debating if I should add them and what kind would look good. I already have purchased all the other rear lighting, so I am not interested in any lighting that has a backup light built in as part of it. I am using the round land rover lights for stop/tail/turn and I have purchased a license plate frame that has the license plate light and a small 3rd brake light. The only thing left is reverse lights if I want them. I don't think I need them to get through inspections or anything, but the transmission has a switch for it I believe, so I can add them pretty easily. Skip it or add them? If adding them....suggestions? Please no trailer looking lights, unless they don't look like trailer lights

I would powder coat before I would do plasti dip. I plan to just have one set of wheels for now with R888's on them. I pretty much have decided to just stick with my initial instinct and wait for the black ones in November. The more I look at them the more I don't like any colors other than black. And I have no desire to recoat a more expensive new wheel just to go back to black that I got for a nice price but have to wait. So....I am moving on to buying spacers, tires, lug nuts, valve stems and tires, and the rest of the junk I still need I am sure I can keep busy until November. If not, I have about a dozen other project to work on.

Fixed my typo I would prefer the Rota style, but I like black better. I hate to buy new wheels and then have to strip and powder coat new wheels. For now I am just keeping the order open on the first black ones and looking for other options in the mean time. 18x11 is slim picking. What did those wheels cost you? A custom offset could eliminate my spacers, but I am guessing the cost is way up there.

Scott told me to put in 3/4" of washers. ~3/4" made it so the nylon portion of the nut was barely going to touch the threads of the outer toe rod bolt, so I remove one more washer to get better engagement of the nylock nut on the outer toe rod bolt. You could always get a longer bolt though. The nut for the lower rocker rod connection clears fine for me with this amount of washers with a bit of room to spare. I wouldn't call it adjustable though. This is a required amount of washers and I could only get away with maybe subtracting one to two more before it would be resting on the nut and you would have to have the flat of the nut parallel to the toe rod for that. You also cannot add any more washers without a longer bolt. Just by doing the math I would say I put in 6 or 7 washers, but I could go to 5 like you did I think. So, my opinion is that your 5 washers is going to be mandatory without a design change. I will not be spending any more time looking into this and just going with the washers. Scott did say the last couple cars he built drove great. When I get things more lined up and final assembled, I will get the straight edge out and see how much the toe is changing with up down movement. I will be mostly street driving, so I don't want it too twitchy back there when hitting bumps. I will adjust or think about it more if I need to at that point.

I got a great deal on some wheels thanks to a labor day sale. See the black XXR 531's pic. $665 shipped 18x11 rears and 8x9.5's front. The bad thing is they only had one of the 18x11's left and now they say November to ship. So I can upgrade to the Black Platinum's for $120 or I can buy the Rota's which are a much nicer style in my opinion for about $966 shipped. I prefer black wheels, but there is nothing else out there in an 18x11 5x114.3 for a reasonable price. So, I am looking for some opinions. Wait for the blacks and hope they do ship in November (no one else sells these wheels, this color is only sold by nlmotorsports.com) Upgrade to the Black platinums (in stock) for $120 more Or, buy the Rota's for more. I just don't know if I will like those other colors. I saw some of the Rota's with a flat black center and gloss black lip that looked very nice, but they are not available I don't want silver or chrome or anything with a black center and shiny polished lip, so I don't have many options. Opinions? Pic of the chrome version of the XXR on a car is so you can imagine them in the other colors.

My car has to run 1.5" bolt wheel adapters on the rear. The wheel spacers called for are lug centric. Does anyone feel hub centric is a necessity assuming your properly torqueing everything and allowing the lugs to center things up? The other question is.....does anyone bother with the plastic hub centric adapters on their wheels? Or, do you just go with properly torqued lug centric? I hear the plastic spacers can melt in track use, so you would have to upgrade to metals ones to last I suppose. I would like to avoid the extra expense of the custom spacer and finding metal hub rings unless I hear some good argument for maintaining a hub centric setup over lug centric. And yes, the wheels have conical seats and lug nuts. The non hubcentric spacers also have conical seats and lug nuts. The spacers/adapters are 1.5".

I noticed my VW Passat Diesel has a 160 MPH speedometer. This sealed my faith in my decision to get the 200 I also had a couple past cars with 200 speedos and I never really noticed it. The tiny resolution loss is a non existant issue, so why put anything in that the car could potentially peg....

Finally got to work on the car a bit tonight. Got some more stuff done in the rear and made some plates to seal the ABS sensor holes. I used a little sealer also just to make sure no water or fine dust could get in. I did not get to work on the car this weekend, but I did order a bunch of parts.

Switches are made the same Some just list one or the other rating, some list both. The same switch will work with AC or DC, it's just a matter of what values they are good for. Its the latching/unlatching that usually kills a switch, not the current through it when its latched (assuming your not exceeding the ratings). Naturally there are a zillion types of switches, contact materials, etc etc. that are better suited for certain AC or DC applications, how strong they are to break, how fast they contact, what the contacts are coated with and so on. You can find some basic conversion rules on the net (convert the AC rating of a switch to DC rating and vise versa). Anyway, there is a ton of reading you can do on that. For what I will be doing there will be next to no current through the switch. Anything would work. Touching two strands of copper together would suffice

This is my plan ($70 module, not ISIS). I just need the seats and steering wheel in so I can decide how I am going to apply the switching.

Changed my order to the 200 MPH. This makes it future proof and the resolution difference is pretty insignificant as far as choosing something lower. The ZL1 Camaro and the Corvettes have 200 MPH speedos. The ZL1 top speed is 184 MPH. I figure if someone is hitting 170's on track with the same motor, that is going to be right at the extent of the 180. If they ever put it on the salt flats they might peg the speedometer This makes it more future proof if anyone buys it and turns it into a track only car or something. I will still have no problem telling I am going about 55 MPH.

The camera pointed at your speedometer