jevs

I don't feel any slop. It feels like a close tolerance fit even though it goes in with ease. I shot them an email just to make sure it is ok. Let us know how yours fit. This is better as far as ease of assembly/disassembly goes, so hopefully they are just getting a better fit now and press in is not needed.

I didn't see any new suspension pics. I do notice that they have the lower push rod bolt in the other way on the silver chassis. The nut is on the side of the toe rod. However it's wouldn't be in the way for them because the toe rod is lower. By the way, my front wheel hubs slide right into the spindles (no press fit needed). Wonder if your holes are a bit small? I have not tried the rears yet. Edit: Found the 2 pics. I missed them when I was scouring for changes. Our lower arms don't look like that, but that plate could have just been for a flat platform to locate the bracket exactly where needed on the prototype?? Edit again: I see the video says the hubs are press fit....time to send another email.

Where is the picture?

Just thought I would let you know. Scott says my engine harness/computer will come with O2 sensors. Also, I just didn't get any pads yet. You might want to check the downloads for an updated parts list. Bunch of stuff changed with cooling and a couple other things. Also some new pics of different things were added to the build stuff.

How big were their rotors? These are ~12.75" with Wilwood 4 pots. (RX8 sport suspension rotors basically)

Anyone putting one on a Stalker or other car that does not come with one standard? I don't really want to add the weight, extra work, or buy more parts, but I do always use it when I park my cars (I typically drive manuals). Opinions?

Looks like I got some mixed fasteners from different bags on accident. Scott offered to send me some more, but Fastenal is going to bring me some over today so I can keep working tonight. If anyone cares the part number is: 33815 or 1133815 from Fastenal Fastenal will beat McMaster prices if you just ask...or they do for me anyway. The correct ones are the ones on the right in the pictures.

I am doing it because I like them better (yeah looks), they are zinc plated, they might have some insignificant benefit (save a couple ounces, etc.), and it was less than $60 difference for the set of 4. Maybe they will look nice longer. I was not looking for a reason to use them. I know they aren't needed. I was just making sure there was not a real good reason against using them. They are bought now though We will see how they hold up.

Well I was starting on the front suspension and did not get far. I have 3 different size washers in my Front A-Arms Bag. They have different ID, OD, and thicknesses. There is no mention of this in the video. I don't know if they are intended for different places, or just a mix of hardware store grabs all mixed up and supposed to be one size. These are being used for spacers and stuff, so where you use them might matter...??

I am getting some slotted and drilled ones. What the heck. Not much more than regulars.

Copy and pasted to my notes. That will save me some hassle! Did you order your 02 sensors? The parts list calls for 2001 Camaro SS ones. I am waiting on an e-mail from Scott to verify if this is correct or not for the LS3/LS376 with their engine management (have not received mine yet). Bosch has different part numbers for a 2011 Camaro SS vs 2001 Camaro SS even for the universals and they look a bit different. Also, did your Wilwood calipers come with pads? There are no pads on the shopping list and I am not near my calipers today to look at them. I am not sure what to buy pads for if they are not with the calipers. I am trying to place a parts order and I am stuck until I know those two things.

Any opinions for a Stalker XL? The opinions are all over the place on the net. Front and rear rotors are 12.75" with 4 pot calipers. Even if I just wanted Cross drilled for the looks, are they going to crack on me the first time I put the car on a road coarse or autocross? Blank is cheaper of course, but cross drilled is not really much more money depending on brand or lack of brand. I don't want to do anything negative to the car.

I will be this week. Maybe tommorow night if nothing comes up. Unless something is different about my frame or arms I suspect we may have the same issue.

You can barely see that long part that the heim mounts to in this picture. Hard to tell at that angle, but that looks longer to me than what we have?? Also, do you have your rotors? If you put on a 12.75" rotor you could use that second picture as a reference, or just measure as if a rotor was there. See if yours comes close to where this one shows it. Also, you said you were not going to press in the hubs? How will you make sure the body fits to the wheels/tires and has the proper gap etc? I guess you could just have the spindle pieces powder coated ahead of time? I guess I will powder coat mine beforehand, but I have a powder coat setup here. It just isn't big enough for a frame.

My spindle uprights look the same as yours if that is any consolation. However I did not get to work on my car this weekend. I had family stuff yesterday and lawn care and outside work today I can't tell about your arms. I would need to see a straight down shot to compare to mine. Preferably next to a tape measure. Hopefully I will be fitting mine this week. It's my next step since I don't have a scuttle yet. I also don't have shocks though, so I won't be able to put those in.

I found some more reasonably priced and ordered it already. I want stainless so I don't have to paint it after it is slid through the bearings, which is a pain. Half price of Flaming River. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360884196158?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have a lot of pictures if you have a question I can look for you. I don't have a scuttle and have to order some steering parts for the next step. Not sure what I will do next. Just figuring out and ordering all the parts can be time consuming. My scuttle is on the side of the highway somewhere in Florida.... . It was not fastened to anything under the plastic wrap and when the plastic whipped away (didn't take long), that part was gone at my next rest stop.

That's because you did not get power steering . They might not have sold one without it before you? See pic in my previous post. I guess I got lucky, I talked myself into the power steering.

I just did mine tonight. I am right with you. The videos are quite a bit out of date for the XL they have now. I took a bunch of pictures of the one they were building when I was there which helped. I am also asking them a ton of questions to make sure I don't screw up. I am currently waiting for some answers about the steering parts which also does not match the video any more since. I was told about leaving this long when I was asking a bunch of questions, so luckily I did not cut it like the video. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=6823&d=1408679054 And here is a picture of theirs. I cut that little notch out though instead of leaving it hang over the square tube like they did. Doesn't matter either way though.

Busy night. Even after dealing with the damaged pan and packing it back up, I still got some stuff done. I got my front tunnel top piece done and the dash all trimmed out. You can see how the tab is captured between the tunnel top panels.

I got my oil pan and the rest of the oil pan stuff today. Unfortunately the pan was damage. It looks like it went through hell getting to summit and then they put that box into my box which had no damage. So, now I will be waiting for them to order me another one. I was about to put the pickup tube and deflector on and I noticed that a couple of the drain slots weren't even punched out completely! I ground those out and filed them and got those installed. I also got my starter and starter bolts.

I called Borgeson and Flaming River. They say they should all be compatible as long is it is not some 17mm stuff. There is only an issue with using flaming river splined joints on a borgeson spline shaft, but not vise versa. A Borgeson splined joint will fit over a flaming river spined shaft. By the way Borgeson gave me the dimensions of the 3/4" DD shaft: 3/4" Round to Round .550" Flat to Flat Flaming River said "not sure I would need to go measure, but I know it's a little over 1/2 inch". However, they said they were interchangeable, so I will take their word for it.

The latest cars have a one piece tunnel cover between the seats now. Bent U shape. It is still removable of course, but you would likely have to pull the seats to reach the bottom screws. It looks cleaner and has a smooth round edge, but won't be as fast to see the driveshaft. Tradeoffs......

My car calls for flaming river stainless 3/4" DD shaft (2 pieces 36"). There are much less expensive alternatives that are also stainless. Anyone have an opinion if the flaming river brand is necessary or if something else would suffice? Are the other brands the same dimensionally? They all say 3/4" DD I am using one Coleman joint and one Flaming River joint and not sure on the other two joints at the power steering yet. I am just wondering if all the 3/4" DD stuff is the same and compatible with each other and if there is some reason the flaming river shaft commands a much higher price (~$90 for 36").

Since you already drilled all the mounting holes and made it one piece, you need to get the tunnel top sheered now when you split it. Otherwise you will have a gap the width of your cutting blade....or hide it in another way if it even bothers you. I stopped myself at this point following the video and realized it wouldn't work without a gap the described way. In asking Brunton, they said they don't have that issue because they sheer it.