waltermitty

Wow! The 195s are just the first try. I think I can go a little wider on the 7" wheels. I'm not running any fenders so there isn't much to interfere with. Head is off to Tom to get machined to fit low profile cam cover. I have most of the bits to reassemble the engine here or on the way, ARP flywheel and front hub bolts, new head bolts, etc plus I have all the tools to align/time everything. I am going to use the Racepak dash so I only have that, 2 buttons to control it plus horn button, light switch, turn signal switch and high beam button in dash. I using an ABS pebble finish black panel to cover all the factory holes. Keyed ignition/starter switch and a 12V cigarette lighter socket in the panel above drive shaft tunnel.

I wonder how a Seven and a Ariel Atom with equal hp would compare.

Nice! Too bad they cost so much. I was look to build a Race Car Replica Ultra-Lite Roadster until they stopped making it.

This is mostly a fun car. I'm not really competitive so it doesn't matter what class I run in. Tom got me a stock non-VCT intake. There is some machining that needs to be done on the head to make it fit the low profile cam cover that I need to clear the bonnet with the slightly taller 2.5/2.3 engine. I am running Toyo 195/50-15 R888R on Enkie 7x15s 9.8 lb wheels.

I don't know. There is another local Birkin, hot 2.0, sequential gearbox and live axle.

Building a Birkin using Duratec 2.5 from '12 Ford Fusion. Got a pretty clean engine off ebay for about $550, claimed 57k miles. Got the pan, valve cover, cams, timing chain, front cover, etc., off. Did the Massive balance shaft delete, VCT delete and EGR delete. Discovered I will need at the minimum a non-VTC intake cam. No stock intake cams on ebay. I am going to call Crower tomorrow. I was told I needed some additional head work but after taking a look at the VTC setup I looks like the Massive part took care of that. I'm using a wetsump pan, AT Power throttle bodies and low cam cover from Tom. The engine looks really good inside and out. Original plugs came out looking nice, no sludge or any signs of trouble. I don't want to spend any unnecessary time fooling with the engine at this point. The only hint of a problem I found was a sign of a small water leak around the area in the center of the cam cover. Two middle plugs had some rust and water stains. I plan on using stock injectors and fuel rail. I might use the Crower street cams another $500 I hadn't planned on. This is gonna be a street driven autocross car, very basic, very light.

Another option on forged aluminum wheels is hard anodizing. It only comes in one color, a dull grey. but the finish is very durable and light.

Aluminum wheels are powder coated all the time. Powder coating is done at around 400 degrees. Some areas need to be masked off, seat area for lug nuts, mating surface wheel to disk.

Howdy! Just picked up Birkin (narrow)from Tom in Gypsum, CO. Already have front and rear suspension on and brakes dry fitted. Duratec 2.5, ATPower throttle bodies, T9 tall first, Subaru 16 dif, Enki wheel, Toyo R888R tires, Racepak dash, Kirkey 41 seats.