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Once again, thanks for the answers. I don't know where I'd be without you guys. My current strategy is to adapt the O2 sensor from Ford to match the Caterham harness, but not worry about it for starting the engine. I will put a bung plug in the rear hole. (Did I just say that?):ack: The cooling system has been filled. Tomorrow the battery will start to charge. The engine should come to life this weekend.:7frog:

I have bung plugs, so that's not so much the issue. (Think it is M18X1.5, and yes I hear the spark plug trick works too.) Just wondering whether I need it in there to start the car, and in the long term. Sounds like not necessary to start the car. In the long term I will either 1) order the sensor from Caterham with the proper connector or 2) use the Ford dealer's sensor and replace the Ford connector with the style that Caterham has on the harness.

Just about to start the Zetec for the first time in my Caterham. Unfortunately, I missing the O2 sensor for the enhaust. Engine building says I don't need one. Dealer says to get one from Ford dealership, but the Focus connector (round weatherpack) does not match the Caterham wiring harness (square). Any advice? Would it hurt the engine to not have the sensor in place?

Basically I was told to bleed it as you describe, except the heater needs special attention. I'm hoping if I jack the front of the car up, the expansion bottle will be the highest point, and all air will be released there or at the radiator. (George uses a vacuum system so he doesn't have to worry about this.) But the Assembly Guide calls for filling the heater separately by removing one of the hoses at the heater. This does not sound attractive to me. I can't imagine spilling antifreeze on the scuttle, footbox, bell housing, etc. Instead I plan to practice the filling procedure using plan water.

It's not a screw, just a nipple. I did not label it as a screw on the diagram, but I was under the impression it can be used to release air while the system is bled. Is that what you thought too? Even if I connect it back to the system with a hose, can it still be used to bleed? I was just going to plug it, with a rubber plug and clamp.

He's definately around! He delivered my kit in his truck!

George Alderman, the mid-atlantic Caterham dealer was kind enough to walk me through the plumbing of his car by phone. I made this diagram based on our conversation. Thought I would share it for reference--or more likely if anyone wants to refute it. The engine is a Zetec with a Contour thermostat housing going in a Caterham S3 Classic. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1629729025_CaterhamPlumbing.jpg

Thanks again for posting the photos. I had hoped to see where the main vehicle power line was connected. I have it connected at the alternator because the starter terminal doesn't have room. (On the starter is the battery positive cable and the cable to the alternator.) I spoke with the engine builder and he said I do not need to use the following connectors that are on the engine harness because my engine does not have these sensors: 1. VCT - variable cam timing 2. Fuel pressure 3. MAP - manifold air pressure I think all my wiring questions are answered for now. The ECU still hasn't arrived, so I might have more questions about that when it gets here. Also, someone showed me how to use a test light and a continuity tester (you can see my level of experience with wiring). I might do some spot checking before I try to start the car.

Thanks, JBH. The alternator photo helps. Can you take a picture of the starter connections? Martin, thanks for the tip about the weather-pack connectors. I think I need a "tower shroud with male terminal." How's that for picking up the lingo?

Must have been before the Internet!

Thanks JBH, that would be really very helpful. Two areas you could confirm. First is two wires that come from the vehicle harness, near the fuel line. I assume these are power and starter switch. The manual says the starter switch wire is green and red, but mine is just green. If the manual is wrong, then do these go to the starter power and starter switch on the solenoid? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/2108174514_MainPowerAndStarterWires.jpg The second are the alternator connections from the engine harness. One is marked Alt. Power. Does that go to the Alternator output as I have it connected on the right? The other is this weird plug on the engine harness marked B+. Assuming that means battery positive, why is the plug so unusual? How should I adapt this and where does it connect? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1044991538_alternator-connections.JPG

Temperature sensors problem solved by using a 1999 Contour thermostat housing.:7head: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/116228866_thermostat-housing.JPG

Thanks, Al. I'll hit it with the wife's clear nail polish.

Doh! Unfortunately the barb is 5/16" and the car has a 7/32" ID hose. EDIT: I am told the 5/16" barb works fine with the hose, so long as hot water is used to make the hose flexible during installation.

The folks at TWM offered to swap out the threaded return fitting from the fuel regulator with barbed one that will mate with the low-pressure hose on the car.

Caterham USA just responded about these connectors. (Cody is awesome!) 1. B+ goes to battery positive. May need a new connector. 2. Fuel pressure. If I don't have one, I don't need this. 3. Spare. Spare for optional sensors that the ECU could use. Don't need.

Thanks for the quick response. I have not responded sooner because I still need time to digest all of this. Yes, the manual has the engine and vehicle wiring diagrams. Good catch! I did not realize the engine wiring diagram was in there. I has since read that B+ may have something to do with the alternator. I don't know why the connector is that style, but will keep searching. My fuel rail actually has a low pressure return under the blue regulator (red cap in this photo). Will need a fitting to attach to the flexible black plastic return hose on the vehicle. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/206721441_throttle-bodies.JPG

Everybody did a wonderful job expaining the fuel sensor, temperature sensors, and throttle cable, for the Zetec 2.0L, so here's the next set of questions. This picture shows three connectors from the Caterham harness, marked 1. B+ 2. Fuel Pressure 3. Spare I know what fuel pressure means, but cannot find a sensor on my engine. I have no idea what B+ and Spare mean. Any ideas? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1659539796_MoreMysteryConnections.JPG

I have this image of myself standing in front of the bench grinder, working the motor mount, sparks flying everywhere. My wife runs out of the house yelling "Honey, stop, stop, use a Camry filter, it shorter!!!":jester:

Here is the engine mount (black) conflict with the oil filter (black too). The yellow arrow shows how I am trying to pivot the mount downward; the yellow X shows the conflict. Should I just grind the mount at the X to fit? http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/2137236059_RHMountConflict.JPG

Thanks, Martin. It'll sure look nicer when it's making some sounds, if you know what I mean. Another thing I didn't put in my original post: The oil filter conflicts with the motor mount on the right side. I had hoped that I might find a filter that is slightly shorter or smaller in diameter. But I haven't.:banghead: I heard that the oil filter was moved from the engine block to the oil pump in later engines, so maybe mine is an earlier engine? Maybe that explains the conflict with the engine mount? The mount (from Caterham) already has a big section removed for (I assume) the filter. Now I have to make it a bit larger. Not by much, but a little bit.

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1460798622_EngineFront.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/518338209_EngineLHSide.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/369913567_EngineRear.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1842407296_EngineLHSide.JPG

The harness is from Caterham, and it is well-marked. Thanks for the idea about a filler on top of the gearbox. I ordered several "bungs" from the link in the thread. Got extras in case someone else wants to do it too. I will post some photos of the engine soon. Today I made some progress on the temperature sensors. The local Ford dealer showed me a picture of the sensors in the thermostat housing. He's going to get one in tomorrow so I can look at it. Funny, the engine is like a small sub-project within the car project, isn't it. Actually I enjoy it, even though I may have sounded frustrated in my original post.

WATER GAUGE - TEMPERATURE SENSORS According to the dealer, there are actually two temperature sensors that should be on the thermostat, one for the ECU and one for the gauge. The one pictured in my hand above is for the gauge. Reason that was thrown off is that the thermostat on this engine does not have sensors or holes for them. On later model cars that use the Zetec, the sensors were moved elsewhere. I will stop by a Ford dealership and see if I can get an earlier thermostat with sensors. Edit: The 1999 Contour thermostat housing has threaded holes for two sensors; the ECU on top and the temp gauge near the bottom. According to the engine builder, the mystery sensor on the head marked CHOPPED in my photo is a old head temperature sensor that could be removed/plugged.

Thanks, all for the replies. Here are the updates: OIL PRESSURE SENSOR/SENDER After looking at breezy7's photos, I think I have all the parts to do it the Caterham way. The braided hose is awfully long, but it will work. I can always change it out later. (The hole marked ALTERNATE in my photo above conflicts with the starter, so it is not an option.) The dealer says I might be able to get a short 45 degree fitting and keep the sensor close to the engine, but that would not have the anti-vibration advantage of a hose.