jmanz6

I agree about the slave and master being the issue. Check the slave if you can see it (some are internal to bellhousing) to see if there is fluid residue around it. The clutch slave on my Datsun 240Z went out last year and left me stranded about 40 miles from home. Mine gave no warning though. I started from a light with no problem, then when pressing the pedal to downshift at the next light it went straight to the floor and wouldn't come out of gear. When I replaced it I also replaced the rubber hose to the slave as well. Mine was of an unknown age though so it might not be neccessary for you to do. I've heard that if the slave goes and you don't replace the master at the same time you will be doing so shortly. However, I have not had any issues yet (knock on wood).

It's getting worse every day. Kids expect to make $40k/year at their summer jobs. I had a kid come offer to mow my lawn this summer for only $30/mow. I about fell over laughing. I told if I was going to pay him that much he was going to use a pair of scissors and a ruler to be EVERY blade was the same length. He wanted to use my mower and my gas for $30/mow.... In the spring I mow my yard 2-3 times a week, there is NO way I was going to give a kid $90/week to mow my little city lot.

May be time to adjust the cable. Sounds like the clutch might not be disengaging from the engine completely. Your situation is more commonly called double clutching. Was a common way of driving before transmission gears had synhronizer rings. If it was only in one gear I would think possibly that synchro is starting to fail, but if it's in all gears I would look into clutch adjustments.

That engine is probably from a Ford Focus. There are a ton of things for that engine in the aftermarket. They are VERY popular engines for kit cars and also with the ricer tuner crowd. The same engine was used in teh ZX-2 escorts too. I had thought of using one in my Locost build but the bellhousing to adapt it to RWD was $450 alone. I paid less than that for the complete engine/trans combo. I've heard of those engines making 300+hp with turbos and such though.

Finished the basic frame today. I worked on it last night for a few hours while my wife was out with "the girls". Just had a few things to finish today and I have the basic part of the frame done. I didn't do the rear yet since I am using an IRS rear and haven't quite decided on how to mount it all up there. Now I can take it down and place a seat in it to make vroom vroom sounds and take a obligatory pic. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/587975109_basic frame_1.JPG

I had thought about using the spare 280Z engine and 4-speed transmission I have in my locost, but decided I want to keep them for spares in my car. The L6 isn't that much longer than the 2.3L engine I'm going to use. The Datsun trans would put the shifter far enough back to be very comfortable too. Maybe for the second locost. I'm sure there will be so many things on this one I want to change that it will be better to just build a second car at some point.

I'm keeping the L6 in mine. I did upgrade to an R200 rear end but it was mostly for the slight change in gearing. I love the sould of the 2.4L 6cyl when it's all wound up on the twisty roads around the lakes in the area. I also plan to use it for track days around here too. The car is in great shape for being in MI. There is really no rust except in the rear hatch (usual place) and near the battery (another usual place). There are however 7 layers of paint! I did the hood by hand and after 3 weeks of sanding I decided to take the fenders to the media blaster. I was hoping to have the doors and hatch done this summer, but I just haven't had time to get it all apart. It kills me not to have it in driving condition for the summer, but oh well. I'm hoping to get some more steel for the locost today so I can get some work done tonight. If I do I'll post more pics.

This is the curent state of my locost build. I was doing well until I ran out of steel.... Since I haven't had time to get more and it's been 400 degrees in teh garage lately I haven't made much progress. I have also been neglecting my Datsun 240Z as well. It's not looking good for having it back in one piece for the Woodward Dream Cruise this year. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/171678272_Lotus 007_1.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/285568576_Lotus 008_1.JPG http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1792051318_Picture 029_1.JPG

My name is Jason, I work in Industrial Equipment sales and "stuff". I have worked on many cars/trucks over the years and read the article in GRM last year and became interested in building my own Locost. That car is underway now with a McSorley +442 frame, Ford 2.3L engine, Ranger transmission, T-bird IRS, etc. I have the frame about 1/3 finished and am not in a huge hurry to finish the car. I also have a 1972 Datsun 240z that is in the process of being helped along. I've been a member at the locostusa website for about 8 months or so. I stumbled across this site and find it very helpful as well. I hope to be able to make some usefull posts here as well.

In my experience it's best to tie down forward and aft of the car. Also, it seems better to compress the suspension instead of using the tire cradles. When I had a Datsun 280Z tied by the tire cradles it would lunge and sway on the trailer making the trailer pull the tow vehicle around a lot. My 240Z gets tied to the front and rear suspension and I crank it down enough that the car squats. This has made the car less likely to sway and makes it tow a lot better. Note that I tow with an 18ft open trailer and a 2003 Jeep Liberty.