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DanM

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  • Location
    Ottawa, Canada
  • Se7en
    Westfield Miata

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  1. If the evapo rust doesn’t get it to where you want it. Electrolysis will clear it right up! 😁
  2. I have quick jacks. I use them on my Westfield build and also for servicing my Nissan pathfinder and other cars. https://www.quickjack.com/
  3. Thanks @S1Steve. So, it's been just over a month since my last post! How time flies! I took a short break from the build to enjoy the last of the summer with the family before the kids went back to school. First we went down to Nova Scotia for some sea air and fresh lobster and then I flew back to England for a family wedding and catch up with some friends. The kids are now back at school and apart from some household chores and repairs I hope to be back on the build within a week or so!
  4. Thanks for the electric tech tips Dave. Appreciated! 👍🏻
  5. Rear loom With the weather reaching 40C with thunderstorms here this weekend, venturing outside doesn't seem to be too appealing. It been in the 30Cs for weeks, but this just takes the biscuit! As much as I said I wanted to take time away, I truely have the "build bug" at the moment so I'm moving on with anything I can while waiting for my wishbone bolts. Today I decided to fit and trim the rear loom. Those that have been following my thread will remember that I started my build by stripping and sorting the old MX5 loom. Well, I'm glad I did 'cos I found laying out the rear loom quite relaxing. The route past the diff. I managed to add the extra wires using the donor loom, but still need to add a few more (Handbrake switch, 3rd stop light and the rear fog light). I used some painters tape to leave myself reminders. I couldn't seem to find the rear fog light wire from the donor...weird!! Once I have new wires in I'll remove the loom and start taping.
  6. Quick Jack time After installing the diff during the week I noticed that my rear stand was starting to feel the weight. In fact for the last few days I had wooden 2x4s propping up at the back to stop it from buckling. I was always planning to put the chassis on quick jacks at some point but figured it would be once I had wheels on it. Anyway, with the help of a couple of neighbours we lifted the car off the stands and onto the more stable platform. Here are the jacking points I chose, anyone see any issues?
  7. So after a lot of thought, input from the UK forum forum and price comparing ($USD -> $CAD +Tax + Shipping) I decided to go with 2 new grade 8 bolts from McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/91257a487/ Fingers crossed it will do the job!
  8. Yeah! It's spirit lives on in the westfield! lol
  9. Control Arm Bushings are from a Hillman/Chrysler Avenger!!
  10. I know, intriguing isn't it! lol The whole vehicle is a mixed batch of metric and imperial. All the miata bolted stuff is typically metric, but because the westfields use parts from older UK cars (Bushings etc.) there is also a lot of imperial stuff too!
  11. Hey All, I need to source a replacement 7/16 UNF x 8 inch long double threaded stud for my Westfield Miata - It is to connect my rear Knuckle to the lower control arm. Does anyone know where to get one? or have one made? Its to replace this one that I had to cut in half to remove it. Thanks. Dan
  12. Upright Install The final part to bring you up to date, was installing the CV axles and assembling the rear end suspension and uprights. One side complete, I'll have a go at the other side tomorrow.
  13. CV axle refurb Before installing the uprights I need to refurbish the CV axles. I had bought new boots from Rockauto and disassembled the axles to clean and re-grease. I don't have many photos to share because once the grease was out there was no way I could touch anything other than the parts. That stuff managed to get every where...another T-shirt in the trash Grease went in next. I packed it in there a little at a time in stages, moving the piece and letting the grease get sucked in. Then I moved the boot in position and clamped it down. The finished product.
  14. The last couple of days have been a real mixed back. I feel like I accomplished a lot in a short period of time, but amongst all that progress I had a few set backs, made a few mistakes and lost my patience a few times. After this I think I need a break from the build for a short while... Differential Install With my new differential bushings pressed in I moved on to installing the diff. First things first, trim off the metalastic buffer tabs. My buffers were in terrible condition when I pulled them off the car and after cleaning them up they had each separated in to three parts. I put the three part sandwich together and draw a line around the rubber parts to use as a stencil for cutting. Then I clamped the metal part to my work bench and used my dremel cut off wheel to remove the tabs. Finally I ran the part through the belt sander to smooth the edges. Next I put a load of cardboard strips around the chassis to protect it from bumps and scratches when I first put the diff in. Unfortunately, there was no-one around when I wanted to lift the diff in so I put on my big boy pants and went for it. I'd like to say that I lowered it in, in a controlled methodical fashion, but that wasn't to be. I think I basically threw it in there on to the cardboard and then figured it out from there... Not particularly elegant I'm afraid. After getting it in position I seemed to enter missing hardware hell. Every time I wanted to move forward with the install the advertised bolt was missing. First the repair washers for the diff mount, then the M12 120mm bolts for the diff hanger and went from there. Total waste of an afternoon making trip after trip to the store. Once I had what I needed I pulled out my pry bar and went to work lining everything up and securing the parts. With my buffer in three parts the bottom part had nothing to secure it in place. Any ideas if I actually need it? If so I'll somehow glue it together. Edit: Thanks @MV8 for pointing out that the bush is upside down. It should look like this.
  15. Painting the Valve Cover So, I'm following Stu Falkner's Turbo thread which gave me an idea to paint my valve cover. With a bit of Iron paint left over from painting my block I decided I'd spend the morning giving it a few coats to see what it would look like. As always I started with a good prep. sanding and cleaning. Then, I blocked off the Mazda 16 Valve writing with some Vaseline so that it wasn't covered up with paint. Prior to laying down my first coat of primer, I wiped off the Vaseline residue from the main surface with some brake clean and shop towel. After 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of Dupli-Color engine enamel, it looked like this. Next thing was to see see if the Vaseline trick had worked. I scraped it out with a Q-Tip. It's not show quality, but looks good at 5 feet away! Good enough for me! 🤪
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