theDreamer

Are you asking about the North American versions only? My understanding is that the UK/Euro R400 used the MG XPower Rover 1.8 K-Series engine . Some state it is the better engine being it’s all aluminum with factory mods.

In the past I have complained that the signals, hazard lights and brake lights were not operative when our car arrived from Utah. Signals and hazards just needed to replace the flasher relay. The brake lights were another story. The mechanic said the pressure switch was gone and they are a known problem so he suggested, (as did others) to leave it so it looks period correct and wire in in a simple mechanical switch. It would be cheaper than buying a new pressure switch and I’d never have to worry about it again. There were other issues that I was not happy with but overall I was OK with the work from this first mechanic. Well, up to a point. That being just weeks later when the brake lights would come on when I turned the ignition on. Simple fix, the hand fabricated bracket that held the switched had loosened and fell to the side. That left the plunger out which is how the brake light switch works. So I frigged around with the bracket and adjusted the switch, tightened everything back up and voila, brake lights working again. That was until I picked the car up this spring after it spent all winter in the shop for a new clutch assembly. Two hour drive home and there were several issues that required the car be returned. One of which was the brake lights were stuck on, again. However, this time the switch was still locked into position. No matter how I tried to adjust the switch it didn’t work. Turns out this mechanic had tried to readjust all the pedals to make it like it was as the new clutch put that pedal at a different height to the rest. The car went back and I do not know what he did but the brake lights were working properly when I picked up the car. Over the last 6-8 weeks people have said I had no brake lights but both the wife and I checked later and they worked. On Monday night at the local Car Show people mentioned the brake lights and sure enough, they were stuck on, again. This time I took everything apart and discovered that the last mechanic had jammed the switch between the end of the pedal box and the brake arm. He damaged something inside and it was hit and miss for a time and now it was totally broken. I tracked down the switch part #, which is available from Canadian Tire for $14.97. Funny the choke cable that the first mechanic also installed came from Canadian Tire too. Canadian Tire said I had to order it on-line and have it shipped to the store where I would pick it up in 10 to 12 days. Luckily I found a local Motorcycle shop that got it in two days for about $20.00 out the door. It took some time to get it positioned just right but I finally got it working. I really wish I had a lift because the car is just that much too low to bend over to work on. Now, here is where I get pissed. Looking back at my bill from 2024 I paid over $500 for parts and labour to have a bracket fabricated to mount a Canadian Tire switch (used on quads and snowmobiles) that wasn’t as good as advertised. Furthermore, looking around I found there already was a factory riveted brake light switch bracket in my car. So why did that first mechanic think he needed to fabricate and relocate the brake switch? Bottom line, DON’T believe everything people (who are making money off you) tell you. I’ve attached photos showing the first brake switch location and then the second, factory location with my new switch installed.

Not sure when Caterham pulled the trigger on these but it did seem rather late in the day. I posted about the cars in April. The thread is here: https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/16010-caterham-to-unveil-a-new-miami-special-edition-model-at-this-weekends-grand-prix/#comment-156219 I think it would have been a huge success for Caterham USA if they’d been able to showcase the cars had Mother Nature not thrown a monkey wrench into the works. The question is; where are these cars now?

Funny, that link works for me. (see URL in attached image) Try searching Sussex Wisconsin. I recently had an issue with a Facebook Marketplace ad in Texas. This was in a thread on another forum and the link kept coming up not found. However, when I set my search area to within 100 miles of the town BINGO! There it was.

I do not see this one listed so I'm adding it. If I missed it then just delete this post. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1072580748579610

@Darcy here is my take on your questions. #1 Your car may have a racing style clutch which, by designed, is not to be slipped. Having driven racing cars and ridden dry clutch motorcycles, getting the revs up and letting out the clutch quickly has become second nature to me. It takes practice and patience but you can master it. if you cannot avoid traffic lights be sure to let the vehicle in front of you get sufficiently ahead before you “pop” the clutch. You’ll be up their tail pipe in flash if not careful. Probably some YouTube videos out there to show you how to modulate the throttle, you need to give it enough so as not to stall but once rolling be ready to back off a bit. #2 most likely “A” frame bushings are shot. This was something that turned me off several good cars before I learned what was making the noise and how easy a fix it is. #3 See answer to #1. #4 There are several period correct types available. I suggest getting the type that mount to the leading edge of the windscreen mounts. They slide over the edge and are held by machine screws tightened against the inside edge. No drilling required. (see image) #6 I’m not sure as it depends on the spacing of the door pins. I’d suggest driving with the doors on until you find out from the Lotus S2 & S3 owners in the group what they have. Many of us drive with doors on and some have bought or made draft reducers to go around or behind the headrest or the roll bar. However, not applicable in your case at this point. (see image of the wife and I arriving at British Car Day after a three hour drive on 400 series highways) #7 Congratulations, you own a legitimate Little Britsh Car. You can tell because they like to mark their territory.

@EdWills I stand corrected. I do not know the origin of the “U” being for replacement chassis but I had read that somewhere. I received an email stating similar in response to the “Barn Find” that I was recently making inquiries about. You and John are two of the best when it comes to researching, recording and authenticating original Lotus 7’s full stop.

Relaxing at the Stirling Fair car show today.

@Darcy As I’ve mentioned before check out this site: https://www.anglocanadianlotus7.ca/lotus-seven-frame-and-chassis-numbers/ I’d say you have a Universal Radiators chassis as I’m sure they are the only company that used that particular area to stamp their number. Yes most have just a “B”, but also “UB” which some take to mean it was a replacement chassis. The “L” may be like it is with the Lotus serial number meaning LHD, which would fit your car. Also as previously mentioned, forward this info, (Universal Radiators chassis number and lotus serial number) in text with photos to John Watson and he’ll give you what info he has. http://www.historiclotusregister.co.uk/theRegistrars/newperrinwatson.php

That's bloody well clean and organized compared to my little two car garage. Should we start a "Bless This Mess" thread to see who has to climb over the most junk to get to their cars?

Hi @Darcy glad you found us. Did you take up Lotus7's offer and contact him? I have a friend who is looking at a barn find and will be interested in talking with other S2/S3 owners like him. Again, congrats on the win.

Ditto to all comments posted by the others, great colour combination, great spec and a FUNtastic adventure for you and your son to remember for decades to come. I also agree with the look and advantages of the padded, leather covered roll bar. It’s a rare option indeed and one I really appreciate on our car. A couple of notes, I did not realize that Caterham was now building dual use chassis with provisions for RHD and LHD instead of two specific chassis, one for each. Makes too much sense… hehehe Also, are you are having the car completely built by the factory? It was my understanding that under Caterham’s new US sales policies that the chassis and parts are shipped from England but that the engine is sourced in the US. I understand that the 620 is a different beast so I’m sure there are things I do not know.

Former pro racer Scott Goodyear runs a company called Toronto Racing Simulators. He has one facility set up in Mississauga and he did have one in cottage country that our little Group of Sevens owners held a special event at. TRS advertises standard to full motion systems, uses either big screens or VR headsets as well as selling everything from parts to complete systems. This photo page shows a bit of everything including major show set ups. https://torontosimulators.ca/our-racing-area-toronto-sim-racing/

I believe this car has been included several times on Croc’s list. I cannot find the last ad but I’m sure it was on Hemmings at a very high asking price. No offense as it is a Superlight R500 but, the seller has to know if he hasn’t got the interest in it at his asking price then it is too high. We’ll see if BaT proves me right or if two bidders with deep pockets and a lust for this Superlight drive the price up.

I didn’t take a photo and wished I had but have to relate this story. The wife and I attended our local LBC’s club’s All British Car Show yesterday. An individual approached me stating he’d learned that I owned the Caterham. He didn’t know a lot about sports cars as he was really into muscle and hot rods. However, he plays Forza 7 on Xbox and his favourite car is a Caterham. He’d never seen one and didn’t know anything about them. I gave him a brief history on the Chapman and the Lotus seven, then explained how Caterham had bought the rights and continued to improve the Series 3. He had all sorts of questions which I was mostly able to answer however, I had a problem with this one. He asked; how close is the game version to the real car? As I have never played Forza or any game using a controller I was not able to make a direct comparison. I did explain that in the early days of computer games I played Indy 500 with a joy stick and later using a wheel I enjoyed Grand Prix Legions and GP1 and GP2. Those games were fun but at times the computer car didn’t respond as normal cars would and it didn’t really matter which car you were in they all behaved pretty much the same. I’ve been told that modern games are much better especially when it comes to the differences. I suspect that his game Caterham is a fair approximation of the real deal. Forza uses a Superlight R500. I told him that there are newer models like the CSR with up to 2.3 liter, inboard suspensions and even the 620 with a supercharged engine. He was blown away that he was seeing an actual Caterham similar to the one he races in a game. But, you should have seen his face when I asked if he wanted to sit it the real deal. We always let kids sit in the cars and the parents take photos. But, nothing prepared me for how this guy lit up when he slid into the seat and realized just how small the steering wheel is. Or, how crisp the shifter is, just click, click. Like all kids he didn't want to get out. He knows what hp can do in his truck he could only imagine what it would be like in a tiny car with his butt just inches off the road. He may feel the need to sell his 454 hot rod truck and look for a Caterham now.