theDreamer

Geez, they're coming out of the woodwork. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/caterham-seven-7/

Photos taken Thursday evening on our way home from a huge Cruise Night held about 1 ½ hours drive from our home. It was around 8:00 ish and the sun was setting behind us. You can see the setting sun in the headlight bowls. I was asked by a professional photographer; what was my favourite view of my car? I said looking at the scenery in the reflections in the headlight bowls. He said; “I don’t know how to shot that.” So this was my wife’s first attempt at it.

@IamScotticus Under the big capital E and Club Member it states; Location: Darien CT. I assume the trailer is located there or there abouts.

The plural of Lotus is Lotus.

Been there, done that, TWICE! The wife made use of that feature the first day she got her Spitfire. We made it about 6 miles down the road and it died from fuel starvation. Then a couple of weeks later (after it was supposedly fixed) on her second ever drive. It started fine in the garage but after we drove about 5 miles and stopped to fill up with gas it would not restart. The shop tried a new fuel pump but it produced too much pressure so put the original back on. They rebuilt the original Stromberg carb twice with no joy. She decided to go with a new Weber downdraft. It worked but wouldn’t idle and wanted to stall unless you blipped the throttle. I finally got out the tools and it took me about 5 minutes to have it idling smoothly at around 900-950. A little high but at that rpm the engine doesn’t shake and want to stall any more.

This is why I rarely take the bonnet off. Only twice at shows and twice to do road side repairs. Below is a photo of the time the clutch cable came lose and we did a zip tie repair to hold the cable into the clutch arm. We were on our way to Brits on the Lake in Port Perry. The second photo is showing the 1st and 2nd in class winners side by side at Brits in the Park Lindsay 2024. The third is me relaxing at the local fair car show this year.

Are you asking about the North American versions only? My understanding is that the UK/Euro R400 used the MG XPower Rover 1.8 K-Series engine . Some state it is the better engine being it’s all aluminum with factory mods.

In the past I have complained that the signals, hazard lights and brake lights were not operative when our car arrived from Utah. Signals and hazards just needed to replace the flasher relay. The brake lights were another story. The mechanic said the pressure switch was gone and they are a known problem so he suggested, (as did others) to leave it so it looks period correct and wire in in a simple mechanical switch. It would be cheaper than buying a new pressure switch and I’d never have to worry about it again. There were other issues that I was not happy with but overall I was OK with the work from this first mechanic. Well, up to a point. That being just weeks later when the brake lights would come on when I turned the ignition on. Simple fix, the hand fabricated bracket that held the switched had loosened and fell to the side. That left the plunger out which is how the brake light switch works. So I frigged around with the bracket and adjusted the switch, tightened everything back up and voila, brake lights working again. That was until I picked the car up this spring after it spent all winter in the shop for a new clutch assembly. Two hour drive home and there were several issues that required the car be returned. One of which was the brake lights were stuck on, again. However, this time the switch was still locked into position. No matter how I tried to adjust the switch it didn’t work. Turns out this mechanic had tried to readjust all the pedals to make it like it was as the new clutch put that pedal at a different height to the rest. The car went back and I do not know what he did but the brake lights were working properly when I picked up the car. Over the last 6-8 weeks people have said I had no brake lights but both the wife and I checked later and they worked. On Monday night at the local Car Show people mentioned the brake lights and sure enough, they were stuck on, again. This time I took everything apart and discovered that the last mechanic had jammed the switch between the end of the pedal box and the brake arm. He damaged something inside and it was hit and miss for a time and now it was totally broken. I tracked down the switch part #, which is available from Canadian Tire for $14.97. Funny the choke cable that the first mechanic also installed came from Canadian Tire too. Canadian Tire said I had to order it on-line and have it shipped to the store where I would pick it up in 10 to 12 days. Luckily I found a local Motorcycle shop that got it in two days for about $20.00 out the door. It took some time to get it positioned just right but I finally got it working. I really wish I had a lift because the car is just that much too low to bend over to work on. Now, here is where I get pissed. Looking back at my bill from 2024 I paid over $500 for parts and labour to have a bracket fabricated to mount a Canadian Tire switch (used on quads and snowmobiles) that wasn’t as good as advertised. Furthermore, looking around I found there already was a factory riveted brake light switch bracket in my car. So why did that first mechanic think he needed to fabricate and relocate the brake switch? Bottom line, DON’T believe everything people (who are making money off you) tell you. I’ve attached photos showing the first brake switch location and then the second, factory location with my new switch installed.

Not sure when Caterham pulled the trigger on these but it did seem rather late in the day. I posted about the cars in April. The thread is here: https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/16010-caterham-to-unveil-a-new-miami-special-edition-model-at-this-weekends-grand-prix/#comment-156219 I think it would have been a huge success for Caterham USA if they’d been able to showcase the cars had Mother Nature not thrown a monkey wrench into the works. The question is; where are these cars now?

Funny, that link works for me. (see URL in attached image) Try searching Sussex Wisconsin. I recently had an issue with a Facebook Marketplace ad in Texas. This was in a thread on another forum and the link kept coming up not found. However, when I set my search area to within 100 miles of the town BINGO! There it was.

I do not see this one listed so I'm adding it. If I missed it then just delete this post. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1072580748579610

@Darcy here is my take on your questions. #1 Your car may have a racing style clutch which, by designed, is not to be slipped. Having driven racing cars and ridden dry clutch motorcycles, getting the revs up and letting out the clutch quickly has become second nature to me. It takes practice and patience but you can master it. if you cannot avoid traffic lights be sure to let the vehicle in front of you get sufficiently ahead before you “pop” the clutch. You’ll be up their tail pipe in flash if not careful. Probably some YouTube videos out there to show you how to modulate the throttle, you need to give it enough so as not to stall but once rolling be ready to back off a bit. #2 most likely “A” frame bushings are shot. This was something that turned me off several good cars before I learned what was making the noise and how easy a fix it is. #3 See answer to #1. #4 There are several period correct types available. I suggest getting the type that mount to the leading edge of the windscreen mounts. They slide over the edge and are held by machine screws tightened against the inside edge. No drilling required. (see image) #6 I’m not sure as it depends on the spacing of the door pins. I’d suggest driving with the doors on until you find out from the Lotus S2 & S3 owners in the group what they have. Many of us drive with doors on and some have bought or made draft reducers to go around or behind the headrest or the roll bar. However, not applicable in your case at this point. (see image of the wife and I arriving at British Car Day after a three hour drive on 400 series highways) #7 Congratulations, you own a legitimate Little Britsh Car. You can tell because they like to mark their territory.

@EdWills I stand corrected. I do not know the origin of the “U” being for replacement chassis but I had read that somewhere. I received an email stating similar in response to the “Barn Find” that I was recently making inquiries about. You and John are two of the best when it comes to researching, recording and authenticating original Lotus 7’s full stop.

Relaxing at the Stirling Fair car show today.

@Darcy As I’ve mentioned before check out this site: https://www.anglocanadianlotus7.ca/lotus-seven-frame-and-chassis-numbers/ I’d say you have a Universal Radiators chassis as I’m sure they are the only company that used that particular area to stamp their number. Yes most have just a “B”, but also “UB” which some take to mean it was a replacement chassis. The “L” may be like it is with the Lotus serial number meaning LHD, which would fit your car. Also as previously mentioned, forward this info, (Universal Radiators chassis number and lotus serial number) in text with photos to John Watson and he’ll give you what info he has. http://www.historiclotusregister.co.uk/theRegistrars/newperrinwatson.php