Rodnok

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll keep that in mind if my modification appears unrealistic when the cap arrives.

I've just learned that the freeze plug has a low temperature center section that will melt when overheated. These are commonly employed by cylinder head rebuilding shops to cover their butts in the event of a warranty claim. Regarding the filler cap, I'm still not sure as to how I will resolve the clearance issue. If the alloy cap and bung appear appropriate, I'll use em. I know there are simpler fixes but I'm not a big fan of adhesives although I have used JB weld with great success. I have a lot of money invested in tools and am always looking for an opportunity to further my limited skills by doing something that's a bit of a stretch, thus the weld-on bung.

The freeze plug does not have a magnet. It was in the motor when I got it. I've done searches but am unable to identify it...

It may be busy but is sure is pretty. Looks like new!

I just ordered an alloy weld-on bung and low profile cap on e-bay. We'll see how that works out. Now to practice my aluminum welding.

thanks for confirming my thoughts, I'll get to work on it.

My valve cover, a generic finned alloy unit, has a center mounted filler with vent cap that sits too tall, preventing bonnett closure. It has a large threaded hole in the rear with a plug in place. I'm considering finding/making a cap for the filler and using that rear hole in the valve cover as a vent with appropriate piping. Is this a reasonable solution or am I overlooking something?

Love that radiator installation, super clean and easily accessed. Thanks for the carb photo, it's a big help and I'm loving the brass supports for the throttle linkage.

Oops, well one might think that after seven plus decades on the planet, working on cars, motorcycles, airplanes and all kinds of mean nasty stuff that I might be familiar with thackarays, but in fact I am not. Apparently. neither is spell check...Thanks for setting me straight.

Whew, thanks for the update. I was trying to figure out how to pack all that hardware in a very limited space.

7Westfield, I do have 8 of the spacers, so I'll need 8 more if I'm to use 2 per bolt. I'm going to follow SENC's advise and get Thackerys for the bottom bolts. The puller fan has been ordered and I have templates for upper and lower radiator baffles. I planned on using a temperature switch but am unsure as to location and am curious as to how you put yours in the lower hose, (alloy tubing splice with boss)? IamScotticus, I have a pre-xflow, I have the swirl pot but am unfamiliar with the restrictor. I like the idea of the watter wetter and will look into that. The carb heat shields are in place and my fuel pump has about a 1/4 inch spacer, is this correct? SENC, I'm taking your advice and going with the thackerys for the bottom bolts and just placed an order for the jet nuts. Thank you all so much for your help, I'm beginning to see a little light at the end of the tunnel. Now about the wiring...

Somehow I got lost in the reply process. I'll need to go back and study how to post. In any case I've included a photo of a mount bolt with torque limiting cushion, the spacer with O rings on both faces and the O ring from the intake manifold. The O rings from the spacer and manifold will conflict or perhaps merge with each other. This makes no sense to me. I'm thinking I should just omit the spacer as the carbs should seal well with the existing O-rings and the compression grommets on the mounting bolts will prevent over tightening and distortion of the carbs, but I'm definitely open to alternative suggestions. I live in Arizona where the temp has been over 100 every day for the last 2 weeks. Cooling is going to be crucial. I don't have a water pump mounted fan or an original type electric fan but do have a 10 inch Spal radiator mount type fan. it is a pusher but can't be fitted without modifications to the old fan mounts. It does appear that I will be able to fit a 10 inch Spal puller type fan behind the radiator, enabling me to retain the original mounts in front of the rad so as to avoid incurring the wrath of purists. Thank you Timothy Keith-Lucas, SENC and Ed Wills. I really appreciate your input