Rodnok

My valve cover, a generic finned alloy unit, has a center mounted filler with vent cap that sits too tall, preventing bonnett closure. It has a large threaded hole in the rear with a plug in place. I'm considering finding/making a cap for the filler and using that rear hole in the valve cover as a vent with appropriate piping. Is this a reasonable solution or am I overlooking something?

Love that radiator installation, super clean and easily accessed. Thanks for the carb photo, it's a big help and I'm loving the brass supports for the throttle linkage.

Oops, well one might think that after seven plus decades on the planet, working on cars, motorcycles, airplanes and all kinds of mean nasty stuff that I might be familiar with thackarays, but in fact I am not. Apparently. neither is spell check...Thanks for setting me straight.

Whew, thanks for the update. I was trying to figure out how to pack all that hardware in a very limited space.

7Westfield, I do have 8 of the spacers, so I'll need 8 more if I'm to use 2 per bolt. I'm going to follow SENC's advise and get Thackerys for the bottom bolts. The puller fan has been ordered and I have templates for upper and lower radiator baffles. I planned on using a temperature switch but am unsure as to location and am curious as to how you put yours in the lower hose, (alloy tubing splice with boss)? IamScotticus, I have a pre-xflow, I have the swirl pot but am unfamiliar with the restrictor. I like the idea of the watter wetter and will look into that. The carb heat shields are in place and my fuel pump has about a 1/4 inch spacer, is this correct? SENC, I'm taking your advice and going with the thackerys for the bottom bolts and just placed an order for the jet nuts. Thank you all so much for your help, I'm beginning to see a little light at the end of the tunnel. Now about the wiring...

Somehow I got lost in the reply process. I'll need to go back and study how to post. In any case I've included a photo of a mount bolt with torque limiting cushion, the spacer with O rings on both faces and the O ring from the intake manifold. The O rings from the spacer and manifold will conflict or perhaps merge with each other. This makes no sense to me. I'm thinking I should just omit the spacer as the carbs should seal well with the existing O-rings and the compression grommets on the mounting bolts will prevent over tightening and distortion of the carbs, but I'm definitely open to alternative suggestions. I live in Arizona where the temp has been over 100 every day for the last 2 weeks. Cooling is going to be crucial. I don't have a water pump mounted fan or an original type electric fan but do have a 10 inch Spal radiator mount type fan. it is a pusher but can't be fitted without modifications to the old fan mounts. It does appear that I will be able to fit a 10 inch Spal puller type fan behind the radiator, enabling me to retain the original mounts in front of the rad so as to avoid incurring the wrath of purists. Thank you Timothy Keith-Lucas, SENC and Ed Wills. I really appreciate your input

I have a soft install kit for the DCOE's. The kit includes a spacer that fits between the carbs and manifold that has O rings on both sides. The intake manifolds also have O rings on the surface that mates with the carbs. I have never seen any kind of an installation where 2 O ringed surfaces are mated. Generally O rings are used to provide a seal against a flat surface. Am I missing something here? This just seems wrong. Also, I'm ready to install a cooling fan and I'd like to have it as close to flush against the face of the radiator as I can get it. This is a new S2 chassis and it has the three sheet metal fingers that the original fan would mount to. Am I gonna go to hell if I cut them off to enable a better fit for the cooling fan? What do others do? Finally does anyone know of a color match for the frame paint? Thanks in advance. Don't mean to be a pest but I'm gonna have lots of questions.

Thank you SENC and Joe Petty, Pictures help immeasurably. When I'm unsure as to which to way to go I tend to overthink things and then they get complicated. I need to keep "Simplify" foremost in my thoughts and actions!

I'm in the process of completing a restoration/rebuild of a Seven basket case that I had purchased several years ago and was being restored by the seller. Much work had been done but no completion date was in sight so I picked it up this spring and hope to finish it up before the end of the year. It has a new factory paneled chassis and I finally took a leap of faith and cut the hole for the exhaust header. I was terrified but it turned out pretty well. Now I need to mount the silencer. There are a couple of mounting flanges on the can, but I have no idea what to mount it to. I don't like the idea of drilling into a frame tube to install riv-nuts but no other option is jumping out at me. I could easily put a couple of riv-nuts into the aluminum cladding, but the silencer is fairly heavy and would subject the thin aluminum to significant stresses. Unfortunately, I have never seen a complete S2 Seven in real life, found no clues in Tony Weal's book and find myself in need of knowledgeable support.

Scored a clam. Thanks, Craig Chima!

HI Ed and thanks for the offer. I just might be able to take you up on those. I have a good friend in Peterboro Ontario that I need to visit. I'll call him tomorrow and see if we can ship to him and then I'll pick em up when I see him. I'll get back to you in the next day or so. Thanks, Mark

Finally got my S2 home to AZ from Florida. It's not finished but is no longer just a jumble of near worthless parts. The left clamshell is not Lotus, has a curved mounting surface and no depression for the clamp. I will therefore need an appropriate replacement and will consider a pair if that is the only alternative. Additionally, the windscreen stanchions have gone and I'll be in the market for a pair.

I'm in northern Arizona and would be happy to let you experience mine. I'm only 5'8" and 145# and fit easily but had to modify the pedals a bit to accommodate my size 10.5 shoes. With a quick release wheel, entry and exit are no issue but because of the quick release, the steering wheel is Much closer to my chest than I would prefer, but that's just personal preference. A minimal level of bilateral shoulder strength and overall fitness is required to exit the vehicle. I've only had it for a bit over a year and am just finally able to lift myself out as I had shoulder surgery to reattach a couple of muscles that I had ripped from the bone in a bicycle crash just after getting the car.