JakeC

Welp, I tried the zip ties, thanks for the suggestion @BruceBe. Unfortunately no joy, same issue. I'll have to wait for the loom to show up.

Huh that's interesting! I'll give it a go this week and see if anything changes. Thanks for the tip!

@jeffs I just checked and the temp seems good. Ecu matches the gauge. Thanks for the idea though!

Oh shoot, no, I didn't try that, I will see what Easimap says tonight, thanks for the tip! In the mean time I have a loom on order as well.

Honestly I don't know for sure. The sbdmotorsport pdf here mentionsed 3Bar / 44.1 psi: https://www.sbdmotorsport.co.uk/wp/wp/pdf/2L_Duratec_TP-DURA-2-0L-K3_Taper_Throttle_Kit_Instructions.pdf#:~:text=You will first,Bar (44.1 psi) But I don't know how to find out for sure.

Nice, thanks much. Fingers crossed that is all it is. Trying not to get my hopes up too high lol

Thank you @JohnCh and @Croc! I'll try a new loom first and report back. Thanks again!

Hey All, I'm hoping someone here might be able to shed some light on an issue I am having or have some suggestions on troubleshooting next steps. I have a 2021 420R SV (metric) which has the 2.0L Duratec and about 9600 miles. The car is used mostly for autocross with some track days sprinkled in, and I drive the car to and from the envents. After the last event (a couple of months ago now) I started getting some misfires when going up hills on the way home. At first I thought I was just running low on gas, which was true, and when I coasted down hill the misfires went away, or so I thought. The next time I had the car out (just a normal drive) the misfires came back and the longer I drove the worse it got, meaning the lower in the rpm range it would misfire under load. Any time I have tried to drive the since the troubles started, it would be fine, and I could do a pull in second through the rev range and not have any troubles at first, but as the engine came up to temp, the misfire would come back. I've had similar feeling issues in the past with other cars, and it was always a bad coil. So the troubleshooting started. I purchased a single new coil and swapped it into each cylinder, and nothing changed. So I thought maybe it could be multiple bad coils, so I swapped in 4 new ones and did 4 new spark plugs at the same time. That made no difference. Next I did the Cam Position sensor, since it was an easy change and relatively cheap. No change. Next I did the Crank Position Sensor, and I have read those have a tendency to go bad. That made no difference. So I thought well, if timing and spark are ok, then maybe its a fuel issue. I put on a fuel pressure gauge at the rail, at idle at temp, its between 45 and 50psi, at wide open throttle when not misfiring its between 40 and 45 psi, and at wide open throttle when misfiring its about the same between 45 and 50psi. (I have video if needed) I don't know what the proper pressure is supposed to be, but I figure since its the same when working properly and not, then its probably in the ballpark. So next, I got a cheap injector tester/cleaner thing and pulled the injectors. When testing they all flowed about the same but the weren't "hot" either. So as a final last ditch effort I bought 4 new injectors, and installed them today. (on the tester they also flowed nearly the same, but not as well matched as the stock ones) And the problem persists. So now I am all out of ideas I truly don't know where to go next. I do have a easimap dongle and the software on a laptop, but I'm not super familiar with it, and the ECU is the stock locked one. I would be truly grateful for any ideas on what to do next. At this point I'm not above taking it to someone to look at, if anyone knows a reputable place to take it near Austin Texas. If there is more information needed I would be happy to provide, and at this point I am willing to try nearly anything. Thank you!

@bball7754 Thank you very much for the detailed photos! When I do my install, I'll post the steps I went through here on the forum. @Vovchandr Thank you as well for the pics. I did some research on the Lift/Pull The dot, and they are pretty interesting, so I will have to decide how best to make use of them. Also it was recommended to me I do a "loose" strap to allow for some occasional bumping of the door like show here: https://caterhamsuperlight106.wordpress.com/2017/04/22/fitted-caterham-half-doors-22042017/ Unfortunately I will be out of town the next 6 weeks or so, but when I get back I will try to jump on it and write up something. Thanks again for the help! Jake

Tonneau is not installed for me, nor are there any bits of hardware installed on the half doors. Thanks in advance for the pics!

@Vovchandr, good tip, I do manage to have one, as I needed to add a bunch of snaps to the full hood. They didn't seem to come installed on the backside of mine for whatever reason. A tool like that made it a ton easier. I am surprised how much trouble I am having finding install instructions for the door lol. I'll see if I can call up a dealer and see what they say, and if I find out, I'll report back here.

Hey Everyone, So I'm finally getting around to installing the half doors on my 2021 SV 420R, and, there are more pieces than I expected I've seen the page for the Tonneau cover install where it shows the front two riveted poppers: However, I'm not entirely sure what to do with the rest. My fittings bag contains: 4 Rivets 4 "normal" poppers (tops and bottoms) 4 "Pull the dot" caps? 4 Hex shaped snaps/poppers (upper right in the pic) 4 Other Parts for a snap/popper? (The upper most in the pic) And a Washer sprayer nozzle (haha, I assume that is a mistake) So I assume the "normal" snaps (smooth black top, and silver/chrome bottoms) go with the rivets and near the front as outlined in the tonneau cover document. However, I am at a loss as to what to do with the rest. The doors are the half doors with the arm rest: Any chance anyone might be able to lend some pointers or some pics of what a properly installed one looks like? I appreciate the help!

Test run successful 😀 Everything does seem a little quieter, so that's good. Low speed tight circles aren't as whiny, and definitely less clattering. Lock up still works under hard throttle. I'm calling it a win!

Thanks much for the info @sf4018! I figured I would take some pics of how I changed the diff oil. Haven't run the car yet, but at least it is changed. Old / Incorrect Oil: Notice it is 105777 Old Oil Fresh: Old Oil 600 Miles Might be worth noting that the thickness/consistency seemed the same as when fresh: Fill plug removal 14mm hex (Removed the Boot Floor): Taped some tubes together and connected to suction pump: Tilted the car forward and to the right, and moved the suction tube around dentist style. Managed to get just under 1 liter out, which is about right: New Oil: Hopefully that is good enough.. Used a pump cap to push in the new stuff until it dribbled out of the fill hole (after releveling the car) Will report back after the first drive. I'm just really hoping I didn't do any major damage. Thanks again for all of the assistance!

Ah, yeah, that makes sense, thanks much!