jbcollier

All my toy cars are on PL & PD, no comprehensive and no collision. If I break it, I fix it. Insurance is inexpensive.

Pretty standard British car window stanchion mirrors. They use them on T series MGs, etc.

AFAIK, new chassis have a body number stamped but that is not the VIN. You are going to have to carefully read the Ontario regulations around home builds. Perhaps talk to a local hot-rod builder.

Underneath, out of sight.

Multimeters are not all created equal. Your "infinite" reading may be just be out of range for the meter. Check a known good coil and compare.

Yup, I use them on my Seven and Europa. Much simpler, and therefore more likely to be used.

On a Kent engine, it would never be 14.7, too lean. See details above. A Zetec or Duratec would a different matter entirely as they were designed for the higher temps — both cooling and combustion — of emission controls.

I’d forgotten about that post, like I do most things. Just some additional info on downdrafts: The commonly used 32/36 DGV and derivatives is designed to run lean at part throttle. No amount of fat idle jets or rich idle mix settings will correct it. Fortunately, there is a primary emulsion tube that helps. Replace the stock F6 with an F66. This brings things down from the 16s to the 14s. Still not ideal but much better. I haven’t yet but you can do better by filling or reducing the holes in the emulsion tube. Upper holes affect part throttle, lower holes full throttle. The holes let in air so more and/larger holes is leaner and vise versa. The transition from idle jets to mains is also shifted a bit, fewer/smaller upper holes means an earlier transition point. The auxiliary venturi is the primary method of shifting the transition point but they are hard to find and only make big “jumps”. Note: changing the float level will also shift the transition point.

Weld the bung in right where the four pipes join. One sensor is all you need. Dial in your mains first. WOT up a hill @ 4500 rpm (mid 11s) Then air correctors. WOT up a hill @ just below redline (mid 11s) Next your idle jets, set mix screws to fastest idle + a smidge and then light throttle at 30 mph/50 KPH (13.0 to 13.5) Now you are mostly dialled in. Drive it and watch carefully for transient lean spots. Use different idle jets and/or emulsion tubes to reduce/eliminate them. Now run your engine for a couple thousand miles/kilometers. Check your valve clearances. Stayed the same? You’re good. Valves tighten? Richen your mains one step and do it again.

You can bring in a new Caterham (well, most of it) and register it in Canada but it is very tricky/difficult. 100% you cannot bring a whole car in, period, full stop. You also cannot bring in a built-up chassis, period, full stop. You can bring in parts and assemble it yourself. The parts cannot be all in same shipment, nor from the same supplier. Ideally you would bring in the chassis, suspension parts, interior, etc from Caterham — all in separate, spaced-out, shipments! — and build it up with a local drivetrain. You could then register it as a homebuild with an assigned VIN. It is very easy to do it wrong and have the whole thing seized by customs. I have seen it happen. This is why Caterham is just not interested in being officially involved. So, buy the Caterham and have someone in the UK disassemble it and ship the pieces to you — you remember though, not in one shipment or several closely-timed shipments!! Homebuilds are regulated provincially. You need to study your local regs and see what is, and what isn’t allowed. For example, one way that some provinces allow is a re-bodying an older car. So buy an old Mercury Capri and use its driveline and VIN on a new Caterham chassis, suspension, etc.

+100% I bought my Lotus Seven through him, absolute class act.

I ordered some connectors and lights from AES and this was posted on their page… Sorry to pour salt on your open wound but it was just too funny not to share.

Just follow the spec and set your valves hot. I've done thousands that way. It's not a big deal. Congrats on the Lotus Seven S3. I have one, too. Love it. Mine also has the 2255 (Cortina GT) engine. Unfortunately a PO dumped in an absolutely, mind-blowingly, wild cam. There idle is lumpy in the extreme. I pulled the head and clayed the chambers and one valve was missing the piston by less than 0.002"! I had pockets machined in the pistons.

First item in my platform would be banning peach stucco! Second would be cancelling EVERYONE'S drivers license and making them retest with me as the judge. Can't back up with mirrors? Can't heel and toe? Can't correct a skid? Can't threshold brake (ABS off)? Etc, etc, all automatic fails. Third would be the punishment for misusing apostrophes. Really the only crime that actually deserves the death penalty...

You would have to replace the alternator. A generator can be easily re-polarized.