jbcollier

I would recommend getting a professional alignment at least once. They quickly and easily can point out any bent or damaged parts. I restored my Europa and did a home alignment. Drove fine but I wanted to be sure. The professional alignment revealed two bent front uprights and the rear thrust angle was out. I replaced the uprights and set the rear toe in relation to the front and all was good. The "Triumph" front uprights are easily bent. Of the four used ones I have had on my Europa and Seven, three have been bent. Sadly, the Seven chassis unit is also somewhat easily bent. Not easily as in bent by a bump in the road but hit a curb hard and it is a possibility. Most of us do not know the previous history our Sevens so it is well worth a thorough check.

Without actually inspecting the car in question, I can't help you there. Photos only get you so far.

The problem is caused by the pad not retracting and staying in contact with the disc, greatly accelerating wear on that pad. The pad is not retracting for one of two reasons: - the caliper piston is corroded and is sticking in the bore, - the pad backing plate is tight in the caliper.

The only way those sleeves can wear is if the suspension arm bolt and nut are loose.

Here's a typical chassis: The lower arm mounts onto a pin at the front and the rear bush is bolted to a chassis member. What part are you referring to?

Can you post a photo? Or reference an online photo? Just want to make sure I understand exactly which part you are referencing.

What are you calling trunnion sleeves? These? They are wear items. Change if there is play. Care fully check the trunnions for play when mounted onto the uprights.

Does a short input shaft T9 5 spd with x-flow bell housing fit in a stock Lotus Seven (69 Seven S3 w/stock 1600GT) centre tunnel? Yes I know you have to fab/move the rear mount, the shifting isn't as good, etc. But I want to do a 7+K trip next summer and an 0.82 5th gear would be useful, very useful. I can swap out my 3.9 rear end for a 3.7 but I'd rather eat my cake (fast acceleration)and keep it too (low hwy rpm).

I repair them by brazing them up with brass and then redialing the holes. Works well.

I prefer Hella DIN connectors. Much more secure.

Are you in Edmonton? If so, I can walk you through it, no problem. After I bought mine, I found a loose pinion nut and a howl. So I bought and fit a replacement ring and pinion. Quiet and oil tight now. A good read on ethanol fuels: https://www.amazon.ca/Classic-Engines-Modern-Fuel-Solutions/dp/1787115909?pd_rd_w=BPhpy&content-id=amzn1.sym.5ea934dd-1c86-463a-87ec-1025379fbf16&pf_rd_p=5ea934dd-1c86-463a-87ec-1025379fbf16&pf_rd_r=RB4YHRG13R98XBRA3565&pd_rd_wg=rUd8V&pd_rd_r=44e946ea-afa9-47d8-9a08-a290cfff2f56&pd_rd_i=1787115909&psc=1&ref_=pd_basp_m_rpt_ba_s_1_sc

More to hand, no worries.

If you are going that small, it is a good idea to switch from a reflector type headlight to a projector type. Small reflector type headlights are borderline useless in the dark.

Can’t give advice without an application. A pre-crossflow with a 20 amp generator and a pair Webers is a completely beast to a fuel injected, Duratec with all the mod-cons.

Jump starting is just fine but continually discharging the battery is not good for battery longevity. So, yes to the cut off switch. Please disconnect the negative cable until you get your cut off switch installed. Now the bad news, even with the cut off switch, the battery will self-discharge if left a long time. You will need to bring the battery to somewhere it can be charged if the car is to be left parked a long time.