CatManDo

There is no coating on the cat. It comes just polished stainless like the pipes. The color is just normal heat coloration. Anything from the road that gets splashed on it while hot will remove the color like that. If you really want to remove it use a product for removing blue from chrome motorcycle pipes. Those products work just fine on stainless too. Mine look like crap after 900 miles in the rain.

For what it's worth, we talked to Caterham's chief engineer on this a while ago. They are just sending a fixed pwm signal to the pump controller from the ECU to run the pump. It does not use any pressure sensor or closed loop control. The fuel pump assembly is right out of a Ford Focus. Why they even used the controller is a mystery.

As @CBuff said, I work with Bruce, usually one day a week. Beachman Racing is alive and well. The race season this summer was quite hectic and I'm sure some things fell through the cracks. Yes, I am the one who designed the fuel gauge correction module and sell it through Beachman Racing. We also designed the replacement CSR rear suspension fittings that don't spontaneously fail. Bruce is a one man show as @Croc said except for Wednesdays when I show up to help. I am a retired guy who is helping Bruce mostly for entertainment. Since I see Bruce frequently I would be glad to relay questions. As to the G7 race cars, There is one left but it is not assembled at the moment and Bruce will only sell it to someone who will campaign it in the northwest race series since he wants to grow the field to make better racing. The G7 should be taken off the website but that is way down the priority list. We did just unload a brand new 420 SV factory built race car from the last container that will be for sale soon. Again, Bruce wants to sell that one to someone who will race it up here.

This product went live on Bruce's site today- https://www.beachmanracing.com/featured-products

Will be $75 I believe.

So when I finished assembling my 2021 360R I found the fuel gauge to be way off. It shows full at full but when it shows in the red I would only put in 5 gallons or so. It is an 11 gallon tank! After talking to Bruce and surveying other cars I found they are all that way. I set out to find out why. After some research I found that Caterham uses a standard Caerbont gauge with a custom face and uses a Ford Focus fuel pump/ sender assembly. The Ford sender is not matched to the Caerbont gauge! FFS! So I still wanted to make the gauge useful. Modifying the gauge is out of bounds and modifying the sender could be done but would be a tremendous amount of dangerous work opening the fuel tank. How to fix then. We wanted a fix that would be easy to install and affordable. Talk on forums talked of adding a resistor here or there but that doesn't really do much. Hmm. After studying the gauge and sender I decided we needed a circuit to remap the sender to the gauge. Making it really linear would require a microprocessor. This would not meet the affordable part. I put together a circuit that would shift the input and change the slope. Not perfect but small and affordable. And, no, it isn't just some resistors. It contains some active elements. Bruce researched and found the molex connectors that the newer gauges use and we had some boards made. So now we have a product that is a 5 minute install on the newer Caterhams that have the gauge with a 6 pin molex connector (I think all cars since 2012 or so) You just remove the gauge plug our unit into the gauge, plug the wiring harness into the other end, and reinstall the gauge and done. The gauge still won't be completely linear. It will stay at full until it is down to about 9 gallons (SV chassis) but then travel reasonably linearly down to having a little under 3 gallons at the top of the red ( remember there is about a gallon that is unusable at the bottom). That means at the top of red you have about 1 1/2 gallons left so it really is time to get gas. This will work just as well for S3 cars but factor everything by 0.8. These should go live on the Beachman Racing site under Featured Products within the next few days. We have 8 in stock. Brad

Believe it or not there are no real schematics available. The only thing to work with is a drawing defining the wiring harnesses. Believe me, if there was a real schematic I would post it here.

I'm all in with hiring the disadvantaged but a dyslexic color blind worker may not be a good choice in a wiring harness factory. It took us at least 3 days to figure out what was going on.

They call it a dash control module but it is actually just a set of jumpers to map switches to the right place. It has no electronics in it and could be replaced by cutting off both connectors and splicing the appropriate wires. I mapped it out while troubleshooting a 420 that came miss-wired from the factory. That resulted in developing a complete wiring spreadsheet for the latest wiring harness. The car came with multiple swapped pins in connectors. The fuel gauge was connected to the alternator and the fuel pump was running backwards!

Sorry for not posting more but it was difficult to post on the road. The rally was a 4 day trip from the Seattle area out to Walla Walla in eastern Washington. We had around 10 cars show up. The drive out was over Chinook Pass then into Oregon to avoid Tri-cities and freeways and then into Walla Walla. Saturday's tour was a loop north of Walla Walla. The picture posted was taken Saturday at Hay, WA in the middle of nowhere. Sunday we left Walla Walla and headed to Clarkston where we took WA-129/ OR-3 to Enterprise, OR. This is a road that the spirited drivers in the group really enjoyed. Monday folks scattered to head home. We took a few more days to take in a geology tour of eastern WA starting at Steptoe Butte, across the Scablands and down through Moses Coulee and then up and over North Cascades Hwy. I will post more pictures when I get organized.

Gas 0.35/gal

I think the complete car is the issue. Bring it in as parts and title as a kit. If you title in WA and get a state issued VIN plate how would CA know what it was or where it came from?

As far as the feds go there should be no problem as it is over 25 years old. If in pieces it may be easier to get someone with an import license to bring it in as used parts. I would try a caterham dealer for that. Getting it registered may be a problem in CA so I would probably title it in an easier state and transfer from there. I am in WA and have titled several vehicles with no bill of sale or title. All it takes here is letting the state police inspect to make sure it has a VIN or serial number on the frame and then buying a registration. The only draw back is they don't give you a title for 3 years. I've done this with garage finds and mecum sales, no hassle. Check around,other states may be easier. If you try WA I can help.