11Budlite

Our little group will be heading up to Canaan on Friday afternoon for Saturday's HPDE on 5/30. Our friend Tom will have his VanDieman sports racer there and should be very quick as he continues to get it sorted. Canaan is a great little track to learn on and is always fun in a Seven. Ride-alongs will be available, hope to see some other Sevens there!

Really interesting video on Keith Tanner's Locost build.

It would be cool if it was someone on here, but it could be a Rugby plate too.

It's hard to tell, but the first photo looks like it has lowered floors.

New listing on BaT: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-lotus-super-seven/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Disambiguation_Update

I wish this was for sale last year when I was looking for a Duratec-powered track car. Really nice-looking CSR, good luck with the sale!

Sorry to hear that Charlie, hope to see you at another event this year.

I'll be at Palmer on Saturday 5/16 driving my Caterham. Our little group will be driving a turbo-Exocet, a Van Dieman sports racer, a K-powered BRZ, and my Cat. Rides will be available in the Exocet and Caterham in case anyone wants to get a taste of the track. You just have to sign a waiver and have a helmet. Palmer is a fun track, hope to see some other Sevens there! MassTuning TrackFest (May 16, 2026)

I just found another folder with photos of a Birkin starter. Not sure how I missed this before.

I don't know where the starter came from in my old Birkin, but this is a photo of the setup I had. The engine was from a '96 Contour and the gearbox was a T9 with the stock Birkin bellhousing operated with the slave cylinder mounted on the top of the gearbox cover. I'd be surprised if the bellhousing was the same between the Birkin and the Caterham because I believe the Birkin used the short input shaft, and the Caterham used the long input shaft on the gearbox. I know when I ordered the close ratio gearkit from BGH I had to tell him which input shaft I had. I guess yours could be different though. Is there a P/N on your starter?

I always wondered why you would need a quicker than standard rack. As a non-autocrosser that makes perfect sense.

That's to hook up to a manifold vacuum line/fitting to automatically adjust fuel pressure by throttle opening (manifold vacuum). In general terms, high vacuum @ idle = lower FP, low vacuum = higher FP. Not typically used on our setups. I put a cap on mine just to keep any potential debris out.

It looks like the same FPR I ran in my fuel injected Birkin. I think mine was an Aeromotive.

IIRC the Birkin recommended offset was different than the typical Miata-based wheels that most people used when they upgraded from the stock wheels. The stock wheels on my old Birkin were quite a bit heavier than the RPF1's that I replaced them with. I remember several Birkins that used the same Kosei wheels that you have on your car. If you have the 38mm version of the Kosei it could be that they added the 1/4" spacers to get the offset closer to the Birkin stock recommendation. I think stock was around 30mm but it's been a long time since I played with Birkin wheels so I could be mistaken.

Looks good Charlie, but I think your concern of rubbing on track will come true. When I went to 13" wing stays I had very little clearance between the tire and the stay and knew that on track they would rub. I had the fenders off and was able to make two bends to get enough clearance where it doesn't rub. The first bend was in the area circled in yellow to get enough clearance on the angled section of the stay to the tire. I think I ended up with about a 1/4" of clearance. I was able to bend that relatively easy by hand using an aluminum drift stuck in the end of the wing stay. The second bend was made in the area circled in red to get the top surface of the stay parallel to the tire tread. I had to put a block of wood between the tire and the angled portion of the wing stay to maintain the clearance. I used the same aluminum drift stuck in the end of the wing stay and bent the top section back down to get that surface parallel to the tire tread. At first I thought I was going to have to heat up the stay to make the bends, but it ended being not too bad of a job just doing it by hand. It did take a fair amount of time to bend all (4) wing stay sections though. My wings are held on with cable ties and those bighead fasteners so that made it a lot easier to remove the wings and bend the stays. You could probably do it with the fenders still attached but I'm sure it would be a lot more difficult. Hope all this makes sense. Hoosiers will definitely be a little wider than the R888R's and will reduce the clearance even more so keep that in mind.