Pokey

I'm using Bring a Trailer to sell my car, trailer, and other items to make a track-ready package. Per BaT's rules, if you have any interest please look to BaT instead of inquiring through USA7's. I will reply here with a link to the BaT ad once it goes live. For those of you with history of the car or just feel like participating, I would be very grateful if you would comment in the BaT ad with whatever you feel is appropriate. Thanks! Greg

My 2019 kit came with the incandescent rear lights that I subsequently replaced with LED. In addition, I have a spare reverse/running light without the lens. All of this is free if you pay the shipping.

Wing (side view) mirrors are an entirely different rabbit hole. I have mine mounted on the windscreen stanchion, and they have to be in the top screw position to see (most) of the passenger side mirror as the cage tubing gets in the way. And if you mount to the cage then the doors aren't an option, caveat being I'm experimenting with a spot mirror that is small enough not to intrude even though it is mounted inboard. I'm attaching a couple of pictures to give you an idea what I've been trying.

I never used the two sets of side view mirrors received with my kit, and I just removed the rear view mirror from my windscreen. Yours for the price of shipping.

Mirrors are a perennial topic when it comes to Sevens, but if you decide to replace the factory's windshield mount rear view mirror with something to hang off of the cage let me know. I've been down that rabbit hole for the last couple of weeks and may, just may, have finally settled on a solution.

Lookin' good! Just curious, does the windshield touch to cage tubing across the top?

I'll start small and if you want more just ask. Supplies: The (2) M10 x 60mm w/ washer and nuts from your rollover bar The (2) M10 x 20mm caphead bolts from your rollover bar Two (4) M10 x 16mm bolts. I sourced mine from McMaster https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=98093A610 5/32 x 47 rivets to replace however many you choose to remove from the interior door panel Waxoyl if you are that kind of guy Tape and towels to protect bodywork Black silicone sealant if conturing the sill protectors rather than replacing -or- Catherham's shortened sill protectors for cars outfitted with a cage Tools: See the picture of most of what was involved Rivet gun Assorted socket and box wrenches You might need a ratchet strap to aid in the fit into the rear mounting brackets Something like an engine crane to hold the cage while working (picture) Steps: Put the rear of the car on stands and remove the rear wheels and shocks Remove the rollover bar Remove the sill protectors if replacing with the shortened versions, or loose-fit the cage to mark where to cut the sill protectors I'm assuming you have carbon fiber sill protectors If removing be aware that in addition to the rivets there is a very tough rubber adhesive to overcome There is a very real possibility of breaking the sill protector during the process I had my best success using a box cutter and patiently scoring rather than sawing or grinding (pictures) Gently pry back the door panel to locate the interior chassis boss and locate its position on the panel I estimated the position and used a punch to check alignment, adjusting as needed before making my final punch to drill Drill the door panel, enlarging the hole using step bits, and then debur Run a punch through the hole in the door panel and the interior and exterior chassis bosses to mark where to drill the skin Drill the skin as you did the door panel Install the cage Leave all bolts loose until all are installed, then torque to spec Fit is determined by your chassis and cage so I can't tell you in advance what you might need to do I would fit the two bolts that go up and into the verticals of the cage first, but leave loose The left (driver side) rear chassis bracket needed to have both holes elongated, and even then it took creative work with a ratchet strap to make fit Only one of the four front bolts aligned without modification - the other three bracket holes needed further elongation Be aware that the above steps make it sound like it was a measure twice and cut once operation, whereas in reality placed and lifted the cage dozens of times while aligning If you cut the sill protector in situ then a little black silicone sealant provides a nice optional finish (picture) Note that clearance between the windscreen is minimal, likely contacting in some places I've run foam tape across the top of the windscreen but only time will tell if this is a good solution My plan (hope) is to attach the rearview mirror to the cage to minimize vibration and to allow for easier swaps between the windscreen and aeroscreen, but that clearance is an issue Reinstall the shocks and wheels

Here are the weights of Caterham's SV Track Day Roll Bar and Track Day Rollcage measured during a recent swap: 18.2 lb / 8.3 kg for the Roll Bar 26.6 lb / 12.1 kb for the Rollcage Difference between the two is 8.4 lb or 3.8 kg. The swap was straightforward but difficult as the cage's mount points didn't align well with the chassis, and the carbon fiber sill protectors must be shortened or replaced. If there is interest I'll be happy to elaborate, but my advice is only do this if you truly feel you need the cage. I'm selling the dedicated track car so felt replacing the roll bar with a cage made sense for me, but it wasn't long in the process before I was thinking about just keeping the track car.

Check your inbox, I sent a message you can respond to yesterday.

Hi there. John C. just gave you the ability to message. Feel free to respond to the message I just sent you.

JFYI for those who might be interested, I've started advertising the car outside of USA7's for $26K.

Faster. I never drove the car with the fast rack, but on a road course I can't image needing anything faster than the normal ratio.

That is the minimum weight including driver for the class. I would run more fuel than necessary to avoid coming in under weight. One of the advantages of having a larger fuel cell. I have the original rack but have no idea what the ratio is. For what it is worth, on a road course the current rack seems plenty quick.

Thanks @pethier, I've spent a whole lot more on the car for sure!

No problem @CarlB, I added the document to the Google Drive folder with the photos.