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Austin David

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  • Location
    Charleston, SC
  • Se7en
    2021 360S

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  1. I see the oil cooler. Did they also lighten the flywheel? My 2.0 Duratec (360 spec, standard intake w/ plenum) definitely has some intake noise when the butterfly is open, but the intake is on my side (LHS) and exhaust on the other.
  2. Was it painted after welding? It might just need to cook off a little
  3. Definitely gotta do a lap around the block, just to be sure
  4. oven cleaner was the magic potion for curing chrome motorcycle exhaust. do these get hot enough for that to work?
  5. For the record it's a $8.49 cap (new) from a 2014 Mustang. I'll know in a month if it helps
  6. An aftermarket cap costs less than $10, I'll try that first. Tha ks everyone for helping confirm that the cap is being weird and I'm probably not just overfilled.
  7. Yup. Almost 6k miles by now, it's great except for the coolant seemingly leaking out around the cap. It does click tight, there's no air in the system, etc. My modine connections were the last to really seal up well, about a year back.
  8. in other similar cars (like a 2015 NC with ~ same motor) the tank stays about half full when cold. I guess I'm asking if it's normal for the tank to be mostly-empty when cold, and those marks on the side are because this is an off-the-shelf part that makes more sense in a Focus or something.
  9. Hi! 2021 Caterham 360, Duratec 2.0. I think it's the same coolant tank as the 420, a pressurized tank up and behind the radiator. My car seems to want to push a little coolant out the top of the tank, past the cap. If I top it up to the min/max level at rest, and bring it to temp, it runs just fine and the level may rise a little, but mostly seems to stay around that max mark. Add a thousand miles and all of a sudden the bottle is mostly empty when cold, and there's residue around the cap. No other leaks on the floor or anywhere I can spot, but clear wetspots on the bottle and below it. The cap remains tight, but there's also residue under it -- clearly a little leak / blow-by. The leak is on the "low" side, RHS. It doesn't take much to top it back up. The motor is running fine, temps are cycling normally, and I have no reason to think it's throwing much more than "a bottle's worth" of coolant. I've repeated this cycle 3 times now, and my only interesting coolant loss is right under that cap, ever time. Is that sort of normal? Do I have a bad-sealing cap?
  10. @UglyFast @jimmylukeii I just went to the Beacon in Spartanburg, SC. It's ... special. And about 3h from two of us, and maybe 1h from uglyfast? Wanna try and pop in one day? Hopefully a sunny day so I don't have to mount my windscreen.
  11. So .... after talking to Mr. KnifeySpooney and admiring his ITB setup, I left the little grommet off my valve cover. Yesterday I decided to put it back because it was on my desk. Today I went to start and ... didn't. Rough start, turned and fired but didn't want to idle. I babied it up into running ROUGH at a normal 1200rpm idle, stinking of fuel, and started diagnosing. First step was removing that grommet. It was fine by the time I had the cover off, but I did confirm that disconnecting any one plug reproduces the issue. I could NOT make it misfire by smushing on the exposed #4 cyl wire, but I assume that was the problem. Just took another little shakedown ride and everything was great.
  12. Looks great! I hope to see it one day. That cage looks like it would require significant contortion to navigate
  13. Page 181 of the 2015 manual details the dry startup procedure. Basically you want to run the starter without letting it fire, until you start getting pressure. Disconnecting the inertial switch on the right firewall by the brake / clutch reservoir, will cut the fuel pump. If you have a wet engine I wouldn't expect it to take long to build pressure. 15.8) Cranking for oil pressure Before running the engine for the first time it is recommended that the following sequence is carried out. This will ensure that the oil system is capable of delivering lubricant throughout the engine.  Apply handbrake and check that the gear lever is in the Neutral position  Disconnect the wires from the inertia switch, located on the bulkhead above the ECU  Operate the ignition switch to crank the engine over until oil pressure registers on the gauge (oil pressure will be low due to the speed of the engine when turned by the starter motor). NOTE It may be necessary to turn the engine over for 30-40 seconds to achieve oil pressure. Once oil pressure has been achieved, switch OFF ignition and reconnect the inertia switch. Press down on the rubber button on top of the inertia switch to ensure that it has been de- activated.
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