nc7s4

Looking like this might be the way. First quote I got back was $6000 for a retrofit of the original WCM tank.

Thank you, I already have a call an email in to Pyrotect. Let's see how much this is going to cost!!! Exciting!

Hello Folks, I am preparing my WCM to compete in SCCA Super Production. The car needs a couple things to comply with SCCA GCR (General Competition Rules) safety requirements. Today the car will be gone over by a registered scrutineer but I already know it's going to need a couple things - Fire system (including 2 outlets - one in engine bay, one in driver compartment) - FIA fuel cell For the fuel cell situation, I am looking for a custom solution to reproduce the existing shape and size that the WCM has. The gas tank it came with fits very nicely and leaves room in the back for luggage. The existing tank has been fixed up since I got the car and the images below were taken. It is in fine working order, but will never be FIA rated etc. Does anyone here know who might be able to build such a thing? The alternative is getting a pre-made boxy one but I like the existing tank shape & mounting arrangement. Here is a picture of the existing tank, and a drawing that I made of it SCCA Requirements:

That is very exciting to hear. My first impression was the same. It still has not gotten old for me, and that same accel is just an awesome feeling after haven driven it for a while. Congratulations on getting it running again after having gone through it to make sure its in good working order. I will do my best to answer your Q's. 1. Water sensor is the stock s2000 setup. This is an old picture and not a great angle of it, but the sensor is underneath an OEM rubber boot at the back of the engine 2. Mine is a custom made metal can it looks like. It just has a hose coming off of the radiator cap that goes into the bottom of the can. This looks like something that could be improved on my car.... This is another image from when I first took possession of the car... you will see the silver can that I'm talking about. 3. Please let me know if you are unable to verify the installation of your tstat by looking through the S2000 documentation. I can take a look at my car - in fact I probably should do that considering that the tstat has not been inspected by me yet... 4. Do you have an aftermarket LSD center or is a viscous coupling LSD WRX differential? Either case, it might be due to missing shims between the bearing retainers. If there isn't enough spacing, then it could cause the gears to engage too deeply etc. The shims are located underneath this part which is the "rear diff bearing retainer" . My car uses 3 shims. That was true for the WRX and the STI diff that I swapped in. Note that I had once mistaken rear brake noise for diff noise. This was because I changed 10 things at the same time before going for a test drive (not recommended)

Those gearbox mounts are not something I have even inspected on my car. I will crawl under there and see if I can get some images of it....

For your reference here is an image of how mine turned out

While you have the dash apart you might want to think about moving that steering column/shaft below the bar it is presently run above. Mine is underneath the bar With the Kirkey seats I used, the ergonomics are pretty good but I also like the wheel a little lower in my lap. I did get a small momo steering wheel with a flat bottom which gives the right amount of leg room.

The digital dash is such a nice upgrade to replace all the old gauges. I love the progress on this so far as its similar to what I did. Looking forward to seeing how your dash and wiring comes out. Are you running an aftermarket ECU? I have an aem series 2 but link also makes one for the s2k. Planning to add a wideband for closed loop fuel trim control?

The speed sensor for mine is located on the axle right next to the diff. This isn't really used anymore because I use GPS for speed. But it swapped right over from the WRX to the STI parts when I did the change Btw those WRX rear parking brakes are actually drums. The rotor has a friction surface on the inside. Pretty interesting. I don't think the drum mechanism was still in tact in this case

Oh you're right. It has teeth on the back side. The extra bit must be for a speed sensor

No, I don't think it's normal. It looks like maybe one of the sides has a spacer on it. Is the knuckle the same on both sides? They look like Subaru WRX non-sti knuckles. Can you confirm if the only difference is that a spacer is added on one side?

Fantastic. That start up is immediate. For your muffler, is that a glass pack? It's going to be extremely loud if so. May have some problems at race tracks that have noise limits.

That's crazy. Did you put it down on your bench to check if it's flat? Huge quality issue if there is that much of a gap.

Did you remove the windage tray before fitting it?

I had to trim this part of the baffle then the holes lined up. Also, you have to remove the stock windage tray. I spoke to Canton about this because I was also not happy. In the end they confirmed that the modification is necessary for AP1 engines. Canton said they would address the issue for subsequent purchasers, but it seems that didn't happen.

How are things going with your build? I think I'm about done with mine till the spring. Looking forward to seeing the progress on your car.

Thank you for the lead - I will try to get a measurement on bump steer. Not that I will be able to fix it, but at least it will help me understand the dynamics.

I've finally got the new springs installed and it all fits. The front gets the larger diameter springs and the rear gets the smaller ID springs. This is great because the front requires far stiffer rates which is only really available in the larger ID springs. 10 inch springs are too long, it needs 8 inch springs. The perches are set at the point where they are just starting to push on the springs - hand tight. That gets the ride height close. For my car, I think this is a good setup.

Those look really nice. The rear shocks are a little bit longer than the front ones on the wcm. Front and rear call for 8-in springs. Rear springs on my car need to be smaller diameter than the front. Ymmv. It looks like you have a few parts on hand to test fit which will be very helpful. I will let you know how my spring rates work out. I am still waiting for the 525/275 springs to arrive. Expecting it to be a harsh ride for the road but good for the track.

Correction, the oil plan clearance is 3" with the street wheel/tire setup. The perches could always get cranked up though depending on what type of roads you are driving on. 3" will be an issue if you are trying to drive over any protruding manhole covers etc.

Hello again, The F22C and F20C should be the same height. My car has a canton oil pan and the ride height is adjusted up enough to give about 4" of clearance with the 17" wheels/tires. With the 15" wheels/tires, the ride drops and oil pan clearance drops but that is OK for the race track. The motor mounts that I sent you will get the engine pushed right up tight to the hood which will also help. I switched my oil pan to the Canton oil pan. It is steel, so if it takes a hit it will dent instead of shatter like the aluminum one. Its also fully baffled. The stock oil pan and the canton are the same height so this wont help clearance.

Corey is sending the following -525 hyperco 8" 2.25 springs for the front -New hardware so that the bigger diameter springs will fit on the existing shocks (2x for front) - 8-In 275 1.875 ID springs for the rear. I didn't catch the brand name Draco no longer makes the 525 8-In 1.875 springs. However, I did find a company that was willing to order a run of them for a slight premium. Draco will only make a run with a minimum order (5 springs). Keeping that in my back pocket as a backup in case the 2.25 ID springs don't fit in the front for some reason. By the way, here are the dyno curves for the front and rear shocks > Attached dyno sheets for the #122119 rear and 122118 front shocks. The front shocks have considerably more rebound control. We built them this way to help dampen the stiffer spring and create some roll control. The rear shocks were built to create grip. 122119 (7).pdf 122118 (8).pdf

Yup. That's all getting reworked as we speak. Just a mock up in the pic. Fastenal has my 7" long 1/2" grade 8 bolts ready for me to pick up today. Also going to add a couple small spacers for the bearings. Car came with 6" bolts - all images I've seen have this issue

It would be excellent to get into the 2.5 ID springs but there are clearance issues with the rear axles and the front is also pretty tight. It would be a good test to see if those would fit - though I think the small body shocks might need some custom seats to fit the larger ID springs. If the larger spring ID is possible - then I agree it would be must better for cost, selection and durability

He had done setups for wcm's in the past. And apparently had info from those jobs. Difference being that 1.875 x 8 inch springs were more available back then. Their supplier is hyperco which now only sells the rates that we wanted in 10 in. Luckily I found draco springs which still sells the 8 inch, 1.875 id in the necessary rate. Plus they are a hot purple color which is going to look fantastic. Draco part numbers DRA-L8.1.875.550 DRA-L8.1.875.275