nc7s4

Good morning, here is a quick update from the track: Sunday I was able to put the car on pole position and win in my run group and set a Waterford Hills track record for Super Production (SPU) @ 1:13:226. Then I packed up and drove the car home. All of this got the attention of other super 7 owners who are talking about joining in the spring. FTD video: https://youtu.be/7OMT3iydmsA?si=a_AMSi-nvGTgdDkA ... after looking at this video, i think there's a 1:11 in it. Track records: http://www.waterfordhills.com/track-records.html

Here is a picture of my adjustable top front fender bracket. There is an aluminum CNC piece that bolts to the fender, and can slide inboard and outboard on this steel bracket. These work for the original aluminum fender but are over built for the c.f. version. For the carbon fiber fenders, we are playing with the idea of round tubes sliding and being pinned. Male 5/8 OD aluminum to 5/8 id carbon fiber. Still working on the bracket design Wondering if this is reusable for anyone else struggling with front wheel fitment or people who just don't like the front fender brackets

Do you have an r160? How did it break? I broke the pinion gear on mine so replaced with an r180

Getting my front fenders mounted and sorting out the front wheel fitment has been a whole thing. I wanted fender brackets that worked for both my 17 inch road wheels, and 15 inch race wheels Long & expensive story short: The best 15 inch race wheels/tires combo I found for the front are Bassett 15x10 with 6 inch backspacing with a stretched a hoosier A7 225 So the brackets (being made now) are going to be similar to how Ariel Atom does it, and the Caterham CSR. It's a tube bracket which the fender can slide in and out of to get it centered over whatever wheel I am running. Note: I also tried Bassett 15x8 inch wheels with 5 inch backspacing (max they can do). These won't clear the caliper, and need a 1 inch spacer. That messes up the scrub radius severely. 15x10 with 6 inch BS will fit and scrub radius is acceptable. You just need to do a little stretch on the tire which I confirmed with Hoosier is acceptable for their 225 A7. Rear tires are also the same wheels with 275 hoosier A7. I staggered mine because of the weight balance being rear heavy (43/57%)

Yes I'll check it all out. I think the fronts are a better upgrade because it is all unsprung weight. Might as well do the rears too though. Always nice to have a matching set! Plus my car is so rear heavy that taking any weight out of the rear is welcomed

Should be trivial to lay up inside of one of these metal ones. It would be slightly smaller than the original but should not matter. I'll check on this with the guy I found who is doing my fronts. This will probably end up being CF.

I have two rears here Also notice this sticker on the inside of one if it helps Let me know what you want to do with these. I'm happy to help you

Hello WCM owners, I am planning to get some fiberglass front fenders made up. Checking to see if anyone else wants a set. Happy to have more added on to my order and shipped out to you at my cost. Furthermore, I am making some new front fender brackets that will be adjustable for different wheel offsets. Tubular style similar to how Atoms are set up.

the parts arrived to fix the oversteer condition. 245 -> 275mm rears. Wheel offfset has been adjusted to keep the outside of the tire even with the outside of the fender

Hi @Crocthanks for taking the time to review this. Tires seemed fine, tires were just warming up and the car felt basically great as I was passing the field. I noted tire temps of ~160f rear and ~140f front in an earlier session. Inside temp was 15 degrees warmer than outside on all corners with 1.5 deg camber. Ambient 60f. I don't know much about the Hoosier a7, taking somewhat of a shot in the dark by selecting that product. Also, reconsidered my wheel size choice and may end up with all 4 9.5 inchers. Those will fit 245 and 275mm tires, and will give me the option to go back to a square setup (all 245) End result of this day was good, despite the gravelly mess which I still have to clean out. I received my novice racing license and a log book for the car.

Thanks Dave that's a good tip. Honestly the more I process what happened and watch that video I'm leaning towards driver error. The motor has a lot of juice and there is more in the car than I've been able to get out so far. Gear changes on the front straight are still something I'm working on. I can let it sit at 9000 for a while before turn 1 or upshift after the last turn onto the straight then downshift into turn 1. That's a lot of footwork but may be faster when done right

I've been using a noco lithium ion battery in my car. It's much lighter than an agm. No downsides that I know of. To maintain it it gets left on the noco lithium mode via quick disconnect near where I park it

Oh ok it sounded like you had the inside scoop there for a minute!

Any recommendations on who to go to for this?

I believe the left rear tire came off of the wheel, leading to this slow, unrecoverable spin. Prior to this incident the right rear tire came off the wheel. Next session I will be running a new set of wheels and tires. Still not sure what happened with the existing setup but clearly it doesn't like being on the back of my car. Existing setup: basset 15 x 10-in Wheels with Toyo R 245x15's. 18psi cold in rear, 20 psi cold front Still need to double check the alignment but I think it's ok. I drove it home (on a different set of wheels and tires) and it was going straight. Will get it cleaned up, checked and new footwear installed ASAP! Here is my full analysis: What happened: I think the left rear tire came off that caused my spin into the gravel trap. Similar to how the right rear tire came off in an earlier session. This happened mid-right-turn, in the right hand exit of the S's. My opinion is based on how the car was behaving and the video. The "slow, unrecoverable spin" was different feeling than normal. I also recall a sensation of softness in the left side. The left rear tire was dislodged from the wheel after the left side slid into gravel. There is a possibility that the tire did not come off the wheel on track and was dislodged at time of impact with gravel. Why do I think the tires are coming off? Combination of undersized tires + low tire pressure Low tire pressure (23psi Hot) Toyo minimum rating is 22PSI Hot Oversized wheels/undersized tire. Toyo tire rated for 9.5" max wheels. Wheels are 10". 0.5 inch out of spec No safety bead in the wheels (surprising discovery) Unknown method of tire mounting used - Ken used some kind of goop on the bead which may be necessary for track use. I had mine mounted at a place that specializes in road cars Unknown condition of wheels - they are old and came with the car Mitigation Plan Run a staggered setup (245/275) Weight balance is 43%F, 57%R Run oversized tires (within spec) Oversized tires will be safer for lower tire pressures (within spec) 245 on 8 inch wheels (front) 275 on 10 inch wheels (rear) Use all new parts including wheels and tires. Wheels: Basset with optional safety bead (dirt track spec) Tires: Hoosier A7 Only use reputable, known technician to perform mount and balance Run OTD with new setup at limit to test prior to race weekend

Bent up a couple covers and end plates from scrap metal on my bench with a vice and a hammer. Just to check how things would end up fitting. Actually not bad, though will end up getting some nicer ones made

Couple updates on this I had racer choice inc make an SFI fuel cell that fit in the back space. It got a holly hydramat which should solve the fuel starvation situation without extra transfer pumps etc. Welded some tabs on and covered everything with sheet metal per our tech inspector at Waterford. This car is now approved for door to door action in SPU

All 4 are the same yes sir. On 15 inch x 10 inch wide steel wheels.

Love it. Still space for the fire bottle pull handle right in the middle. Are you planning to race it?

Looking fantastic. I love the colors and stripes. Have you driven it on track yet??? Tires: I am running toyo r 245x15's Note that is toyo r not rr. R is the newer option.

Seriously. I am getting priced out on this deal. Might make more sense to do SCCA spec racer Ford from a money standpoint. But the WCM has come this far, its getting pushed over the finish line for tech. Hopefully the next company that is quoting it comes back much lower.... or else it gets a pre-made option.