ptegler

less! Only two lower shock bolts. :-) ptegler

I've always been amazed at the idea that cars rely on just two bolts to support all the weight up front (two lower front ball joints) Cars sits on the shocks/springs sure, but everything presses on that short, lower shock mount to ball joint area of the front lower suspension. REAL or not, the idea that the front weight now sits on top the upright. just seems right for some reason. The Lotus software really can't make any determinations as to whether it's better or worse than other designs, as it for angular and speeds of motion of travel type analysis, rather than 'track feel'. Again, the only way reality can make a suggestion, is a talented driver's (or group) direct comparison 'seat of the pants'. Even then I think I'd still prefer to do that test myself, for a multitude of reasons! :-) v/r pegler

@Marek I think we chatted about a meet up once before. Had Chris's son at least acknowledge my email, but never got a follow-up as promised. So I didn't push it. Funny to as to this day the dealership is still there, albeit diff name/company/dealer etc. ptegler

Cats simply went dual a-arms as nearly every other car out there, most likely simple parts availability and or road testing safety regs etc. Orig Sevens, the leading upper a-arm were the sway bar itself. The rubber end compliance was there as a solid mount would have stressed the upper inner pivot as the sway did not rotate on the same axis as the arm. The Rotus design does not need nor benefit from a sway bar. Take a glance at any F1 car (simply easy to see during TV shots) you see no shock, nor even a shock strut, as their upper arms are the same see-saw scheme (albeit bell-cranked etc) I've got an old copy of the Lotus suspension software. In the past I'd modeled my Triumphs, Miatas, MGBs etc. when working the Rotus suspension measurements, The Rotus design, tests as if a Z-bar is mounted up front! Nearly zero roll with the wheels on the ground in a corner, yet normal compliance of a single wheel over a bump. Probably why they got away with such lightweight springs 125lbs in the back 115 up front (or do I have that bass-ackwards?) Personally, maybe it's the ol' geezer in me.... first hand experience is the only justification for any comments. If you haven't driven both, any comment is mute. v/r ptegler

somewhere back in this thread(?) there are a couple comparison shots of the later cars with slightly longer a-arm ends (less threads exposed) A gentleman her and I had discussed this very point...we compared photos, and it appears longer arms were used later in the production run. Mine also have longer arms with only 1-3 threads showing, and my camber is ~ +0.5° Regarding the BAT poster.... take it with a BIG grain of salt. I'd personally visited the dealership multiple times, almost buying one new in 1988. But the X-wife wanted a 4x4 for all the camping we use to do in Western MD (I'm in Baltimore) Some assets are still in the hands of x-employees in the general area to this day.. Many stories abound, those that gained were happy, those that didn't ....well.... The most I got away with was a sweat shirt 9back then anyway! took another 34 years... but I got one. (and a new wife obviously) ptegler

the Probe lever setup is wild to say the least. One thing to watch.... that switch. that rides the steering column. and the current path for the relay used makes a difference as to whether it self-cancels. .... (relay coil resistance) after the re-wiring (for those who don't know about this switch) One lever is turn (up/dn) and high/lo beams in/out. plus momentary high beams flash all within finger tips reach

EXCELLENT to meet you! ..love to know there were more after mine! Everyone has been limiting the numbers built, vs the actual chassis #'s so stating your as such, fits events to date. We were all beginning to believe #93 (mine) was the highest number anyone had run across. Middle of the country I see. ... East Coast myself. Welcome

how it ended up (three vert rod holes pre-existed so they got used. same edging around my cowl above the dash, wraps the expanded metal. I can just barely (big hands) get my little finger in a hole

no reason to be sorry.... saw the 98 and thought cool! even later than mine so might have MANY similarities. ,,,then saw the 1992. Still though these two should be quite close to the same. Yours is the only other I've seen that used the Ford Probe turn signal/bright lights switch besides mine. (took quite awhile for me to find what that was sources from.... (Factory Five guys on their forum use them)) let us all know as you dive in, what quirks, how the hell.... , WTFs, etc you run across. :-) We're all learning from each other at the same time, old and new. ptegler

as what's on your title... but didn't Custers crew stamp a number on the cross bar that supports the steering column in the engine compartment just forward of your pedal mount assy. .

serial number? (of yours) mine is 1993R0700000093 we look like twins, save my interior is black and it's a tweaked BMW 2 liter (as originally built) ptegler

Fantastic! N / N/E WV? (near their orig origin that is?) he he PICTURES ?!! (please!) and ser# since it's a '93! ptegler

save the engines, the rest of the car appears to be 95% the same parts. A few mods to a-arm lengths (threaded upper knuckle exposure) a couple dash versions, (switch locations, gauges mounted through vs only behind the dash) chin spoiler molded into earlier nose cones (absent later on) I've alos noted a difference in mastyer cyl mountings. ealier seem to be cast brackets, while later cars got fully adjustable position Tilton pedal assemblies. But all still used the very inexpensive Toyota master cyls. Even my M10 powered BMW 4 speed, and the TR8 5 speed used in V8's all used the same Toyota master cyl.

#0 RED at 12 o'clock is master switch OUT, power to starter, and high power feeds (relays supplies) There is a 10ga BRN wire right under that #0 RED, hooked to the master switch ALT out terminal and is the main ALT BAT terminal. at 6 oc'clock, The battery + terminal feeds the master switch PWR IN, and has a jumper over to the ALT IN terminal of that pole of this DPST master switch anyone wanting a fuse block cover,, let me know and I can post the STL file to print your own. Actually.... Rotus fuse box lid.stl ptegler

@Marek I like your dash a LOT more than mine. I coulda'/shoulda'/woulda' simply used a ton of my MG and Triumph parts rebuilding this vehicle, but as acquired, #93 was still 95+% original, and I was (fool heartedly?) trying to keep it that way. :-P .... hind site. solved my 'log book' documented history of exhaust re-welds. I replaced the rear exit oem exhaust manifold with a much later tuned(?) center down exit cast iron 4-2, and custom jigged the 2 pipes that double S turn and snake out the side, before joining into one at the flange. I just this weekend inserted a double core flex joint aft of the flange. The silencer is a 2" ID, 26" long Maniflow glass pack. A s.s 45 exits just outboard and below the leading edge of the fender . It also got custom formed ABS fender chip guards. It sounds fanTASTIC! . That reshaped chrome heat shield was from the Harley bagger pipe that proceeded this configuration. And note right at the top of the pic, blue 3D printed fuse block cover, right next to my master battery cut-off switch. From the drivers seat, or standing beside the car, it's easy to reach under the dash from the side and flip the switch. (mounted this way as it's a full alternator disconnect setup) ptegler

can answer that one... at least on #93.... L->R headlights (off-park-head) heater fan (off-lo-hi) wipers (off-low-high) EMO buried under dash, pull down red pin oem had to 're-panel' it to match what switches I could find...holes didn't match My headlight high/lo beams, are to the left of the steering wheel, part of the turn signal switch assy, apparently out of a '88 ford Probe(?). The factory Five guys use them, and is how I was able to correctly wire mine back up. then I got stupid. 90% re-wire-replacement of all dash elecs L->R moved IGN key over so it's not right over my shift knob! START button headlights foglights heater fan emergency blinkers 3 speed wipers elec rad fan override interior lights changed the LEDS between speedo/tach, LED logoed indicators, oli press, BATT, and high beam that lever on the left, pull back alternates hi/lo beams. Up/dn on the lever is self canceling turn signals I hat that last pic! for the life of me, at a distance, that wheel looks redish brown with this camera only up close at the right angle does it photo correctly,

now THAT is something I could have used several months ago :-) (could STILL use, as I've been flying blind) I had to find them all on my own. ...maybe 75% done at best. (no paperwork with the car, only a couple pics) ...wondering if we can get a channel here just for Rotus conversations... condense it all in one place. ptegler

@Marek...was that you way of getting me to sign in here! ha!

regarding the Chris Custer produced Rotus line.... from a VW Forum circa 2007 (not the poster,just a pic included with the comment) p1elh5q1.bmp

...know that feeling all too well.... I'll update that later.... never get back to it. ... BTDT..... learned the hard way to document the hell out of it while your there! any info collectable, is worth the wait. I truly appreciate the this offer for info. v/r ptegler

@speedwagon ...was just re-reading old threads here... would LOVE any documentation you can supply regarding running gear, parts, dims yada yada yada. any and all is VERY welcome even now as I near, calling this resto done. (as if we ever actually are ever done.) tia Paul Tegler

the swirl of thoughts/options/mods running around in my head.... my Q's came out as spec requirements. Considerations for a swap to a Spit column and rack are in play. Mounts and etc are not an issue (home machine shop) Rack ratios and wheel sizes ...watching how far racers videos show them rotating the steering wheel, (as well as MV8's vid link above.) tons of search engine photos compared As much as I want to 'personalize it, leaving the Teglerizer mark on it, I'm torn leaving this survivor as stock as possible. ptegler

340mm here, orig from 1993. Checked again today... Spit is 2.75 rotations lock to lock. Mini Cooper (newer) is only 2... but FWD and variable rate PS. This Rotus rack in 4! While working behind the dash with the cowl off, I could readily steer the front end with just my hand wrapped around the steering wheel hub (wheel was off). Even my buddy tried and was quite surprised. ptegler

Granted you're ref'ing hard numbers. Lock to lock is simply how may turns or how far you might have to turn the wheel to obtain the max whatever your car steers. Mine right now is something like 3.9 turns lock to lock, My Triumph are closer to 2.7 turns lock to lock. So regardless of steering wheel size or range of steering.... this Rotus steering is WAY slower then the Spitfire. A typical intersection, the Rotus requires greater than 220° steering wheel rotation just to make the corner. In the Spit the same turn is barely 70-80° ptegler