ptegler

ditto on the location... makes a big difference if/when people have a clue if you're near by or not. ptegler

tnx @Vovchandr yep... have seen those numbers. Hence my Q to the general public here as to what they actually had , turns-lock-to-lock is easy for anyone to figure out. My 'desire it to be' query, I guess really hid my quandary of lock-to-lock vs steering wheel size and what people actually had and felt about it. ptegler

What's the consensus here.... what's everyone's steering rate? EG: lock to lock steering wheel rotation count ? I ask as I have several small sports cars with a much quicker steering ratio than what this Rotus appears to have. I'm thinking I could use a smaller wheel, but that would only increase rotation input speed, but reduce leverage, and not reduce overall wheel angle change per angular steering change. Even my Triumphs are a full turn+ less lock to lock, and a Spitfire has no turn stops till the tires go past ackerman rotational paths from a stop ( > 70° to the direction of travel) ...wow..j never though about it...if you could put enough power to the ground under a Spitfire you'd have a factory built drift front end! ...I digress... NO WAY with this Rotus ratio So what's everyone's lock to lock? ...and perhaps a better Q...what do you WISH your lock to lock was! tia ptegler

Has anyone ever looked at, or documented the dimensions of doors for sevens? I say 'sevens' with a small 'S' as I'm talking across manufactures as well as any yearly generated model changes. General design considerations are what I'm looking for. EG: I've you could have them any way you wanted.... how would they be designed? It's easy to see a couple 'sevens' appear to use the same windshield (or pretty damn close anyway) The frames and even the number and positions of top snaps appear similar. I realize there will be slight variations here and there. What I'm interested in is hinge spacings, heights above/below dash level, or window, solid/openable lower section yada yada yada. I have set of doors that came with my 1993 Custer Rotus (real Rotus, not rotary Locost). But I'm wondering about designs and variations, and even considering full up custom DIY route. thoughts? previous threads here on this? flames? ideas? ... all are welcome. tia oh...and yes..... even have CAD, of a working 'hard panel' top, that can fold and fit in the boot! side note..... not sure how many of the far east owners are here. There is a MASSIVE bike engine Cat and Seven scene there! ptegler

As it currently sits. (Well.... after big time cleanup and much re-hab) As acquired, looks to be the last original Rotus chassis, and only one ever built with a M10 L2 4 speed drive line. ptegler

inherited..but NOT in a 2002. South American DB says it's a 1968 (based on the engine serial number +1662609+ ) The cast in markings of the head though suggest a newer head, dated 1969 (July..7 dots?) 121 T1 and the side of the head So my question here revolve a round some naming conventions and what it took to find the right pulley (at least as received) WHAT is the terms tilux nk mean amongst models/versions /yes? My pulley looked look one large, with two small right up against the largest. which is the furthest out (<4.5"?) I could find many 1 and 2 pulley version for the early m10 2L, but not many like thi.The distinguishing feature is the 'bolded' text query above. ptegler anyway.... i just trying to determine if this is an oem, from a '68 2002 of if this engine is a Hodge Podge. tia

I'm at this VERY juncture myself, but on a 'real' Rotus 7. (yep, that BAT BMW powered one) The oem Solex was so roached the butterflies couldn't be opened with pliers... I digress.... My 'quick fix' has left me contemplating cutting a hole for the air filter of this cheap and quick Cannon manifold / Weber DGV DD swap in. ( ain't hind sight beautiful) BUT...tomorrow arrives a scoop that might be a perfect fit. (pics to come). In my case ,my filter top will sit proud of the bonnet by less than 1/2". yep wider too as need engine motion room. It been very hard to consider cutting the bonnet metal ...vs side draft-ing , and yet another megasquirt buld by me. eh... was trying to stay originla for now.... As to the bonnet hole... well... I guess since the first owner lost the louvered original, to a tractor trailer tire on the highway after it flew off , post show) cutting a hole in a local made bonnet is no that hard.

had pulled the cowl to /fix/rewire everything. Was VERY happy with how cleaning up the wiring went. Even a new fuse box as the old one was black with tarnish and crust. Sure enough...had to go back in to fix some stuff. Wife snapped the pic..thought it was funny me trying to get under the dash to fix idiot lights

3/4" was my next step/thought. I've done a ton of Triumph Spitfires, roughly the same size vehicle, but normally closer to .7" for the dual master. This car came with a Tilton pedal assy with oem Toyota 5/8" cyls. (x3) I'm assuming the twin brake masters were just 'cool' and an easy way to deal with front/rear brake bias balance when playing roulette on which front and rear calipers were used. The Spit with front disk and rear drums, are matched pretty and use a single dual master cyl on the Spit. I've upgraded Spits to the larger rear drums of the late GT6 MKIII wit no ill effects. So I have to assume there is a bit of forgiveness built in. I like the Tilton assy since the seat doesn't move you move the pedals closer to the driver as needed. But it leaves a lot of open holes for engine compartment heat/gas/smells to come through, where if I swapped to the Spit set up, I could seal up pretty well. That route would also leave me with common spare parts supply. (which I have of Triumph stuff) tnx for the input @mv8 ptegler

what are your master cyl size? Mine have 5/8 cast right in the bodies on top, just forward of the reservoirs. I ask as my fresh brake rebuild, all new hardlines, flex lines, calipers... but it seems my pedal stroke is more than expected. So I'm wondering if I should go to a larger cyl bore to shorten the throw. comments? flames? useful context? tia ptegler

thanks for the comments solder_guy. Having spent 5+ decades as an electronics design engineer (factory automated manufacturing and test design), an automotive harness is simple to me. My wiring is actually in VERY good shape, (mechanically) save jumpers and tie-backs someone tried to perform to circumvent faulty/non-working switches. I've completely rewired quite a few systems and everything now works as originally designed. (with a few personal upgrades added) Even the fuse block was so badly tarnished it was not saveable. (was replaced) @solder_guy... I'm building a website to document the complete history of Rotus cars. I've had a few comments from those I've contacted (p.o.'s of Rotus') giving me enough info to realize it IS worth the effort. Just for ref here.... mine is serial number # 93. The 'highest' serial number I've been able to find. I know of 41, 50, 92 and of course mine 93, (off the top of my head here) If you are 1981, it's an early car? serial #?? would you be interested in contributing to such a site? My other sites would bury the content, (WAY too big) so am working a dedicated resource, to document anything and everything I can regarding these cars. For me it has been a 36+ year eclipse, finally owning one, having almost bought one brand new in 1987. The x-wife wanted a camping vehicle, not another sports car, which is the only thing that stopped me back then. ...best I could get away with back then was my sweatshirt.... A new wife, new playground (big ass garage addition), retirement, and stumbling on this Rotus on BAT (bringatrailer...latest one sold) it was a no-brainer to snatch it up. Mechanically it was in great shape. The p.o. wrapped it in a tarp way to tight and in two years did major damage moisture damage. So all rubber, brakes, bulbs, and a lot of aluminum cleanup, she's prepped to hit the road fully operational before the end of October for last local car gathering. For me, ...the biggest headache, I believe I spend more time in front of the computer just trying to figure out what parts are what, as I have no 'original' paperwork to go with the car. I've probably restored 2 dozen cars over the last 4 decades, but this oh so simple design has been kicking my ass. So it's small inputs here and there I thank you graciously for. (all of you other 7 owners as well) v/r Paul Tegler

thanks folks. Yes I found the 516 was the orig style on the Lotus S2 and new rubber blocks ARE avail. My hunt/desire is running/turn indicator, which I also see mods avail for either two bulbs, and even a single dual filament version ptegler

anyone have a clue what the Rotus steering column came from? EG: trying to find a steering wheel adapter for this car as I don't trust the one currently in use. (stropped bolts/cracked?) tia ptegler

so has anyone ever found a source for orig or repo fender top running lights like the old 7 S2's use to run? EG: something like these ... (top left in pic) I've been looking at motorcycle turn signals but have not found anything I like. Many could be mounted using the single bolt through the top of the clamshell fender of my Rotus as the wires path through the center of the bolt. The idea is to not add holes, and just let the light mount bold be the fender mount bolt. But something closer down to the top of the fewnder would be more desirable. Any idea? flames? comments? all are welcome. tia ptegler

thanks everyone that has responded so far. Even CB site.... no dice. These (pictured) switches are smaller than any of CB's offerings, and are roughly 2/3rds at most, the size of MG dash switches. The oddest part... the headlight, fan and wiper switches...are fly-leaded into connectors. no terminals on the switch bodies proper. Yes....I'm that type..... windscreen and frame, and entire cowl are off the car so I can work the wiring. Ulterior motive though... screen frame and uprights will be polished while off, to match the firewall work.

anyone have a clue what car the switches came from that are on the dash of a Rotus? Mine are shot, so either have to rebuild, attempt to find new, or swap out to MGB or the like. I need headlights, wiper and fan switches tia ptegler

I know it's a long shot, and not all cars were the same, but does any real Rotus owner here have an electrical schematic for their car? I ask as while tearing into mine to clean up a couple issues, I notices the wiring actually has printed wording defining the wires function. So I have to assume Custer famred out premade harnesses and adapted the cars from there. Since I have zero oem documentation included with my purchase, anything at all would be a start/helpful. thanks ps. Got #93 running earlier the afternoon! It actually started quite easily (with the new carb and intake) Paul Tegler

dooohl! 32/36.... was a complete set/kit agreed...could go larger but not needed. Prefer the throttle response/sensitivity ...pedal travel vs vaccum etc. ...justy edited that post to correct the carb size... ptegler

...just bought a Cannon manifold and DGV 32/36 to drop on my BMW 2L M10 that's in my 1992 Rotus. (yes...the last one that just sold on BAT) what measurements do you need? ptegler

now that is interesting tnx

:-) I think fibertech was the only one on that list I don't already have bookmarked, have used, or knew about. That list represents my exact question though. There are no US companies that continue these days, to cover the full gambit of products like what I lined above. These days US companies seem to specialize in one category. the 'kit' industry is simply gone from what it use to be in the U.S. Sad. You don't even see very many of the race car suppliers around any more. There use to be several dozen companies that even supplied for instance, complete chassis kits of un-welded pre-cut tubing to build a variety of racing class, car frames. All but gone. The U.S. has simply lost the appetite to 'D-I-Y'. They just 'want it now' and ' do-it-for-me' :-(. It's like Summitracing, being the Walmart of car parts, wiping out the ma and pop shops. gone are the days of J.C Whitney, and Werthers. Heck even Pegasus and Speedway have massively subsided from just a decade ago. Long Motors selling out to Moss, etc. Very disheartening.

ok...besides Speedway, Summitracing, Jegs, Pegasus etc..... are there any companies left in the U.S. A like https://www.carbuilder.com. Back in the 'kitcar' days, there were plenty of catalog companies, but i be d---- if i can find them anymore :-(

mini splits can easily be hidden behind a bush..plumbed low through the wall so no outside 'casing' running down the side of the building

power coating planned.... btdt have had good luck to date. tnx all

what are people using as a grill material to stop possible radiator rock eating events? Options I'm looking at: 1- heavy welded s.s. #5 mesh, behind 1/8" s.s rod supporting the '7' s.s logo/emblem. (mesh probably powder coated black 2- round hole perforated s.s. sheet behind a wire and '7' logo structure as defined in #1 above. 3- other options? suggestions? considerations? tia ptegler