hyper7

Framed log 44 print up on the wall with the other two - it's not quite as nice as the log41/42 prints, but also a couple hundred dollars cheaper...

Yeah I read that whole thread @CBuff and came up with the wix one I list lol

Went ahead and ordered a fresh jug of Motul 8100 5w50 and a wix 57035 filter - if anyone has a different favorite let me know, the Internet was surprisingly unhelpful for this oil filter.

Finally up on the lift, found my coolant leak, not sure which connection it's coming from - but went ahead and tightened all 3 clamps in the line where I see yellow crust. Still at the "min" mark on the tank, so just something to keep an eye on for now

Thanks for the video @savagete2860 - I went ahead and put the suggestions into a google doc for easier reference - I need to convert Nm to murica freedom units and fill in the missing ones still (might go grab the build manual from the garage during this next work meeting..) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xVaQPB7p7hupq6vaYoyDKtKSJfh_D52d3PYb4nHmbnA/edit?usp=drivesdk

That doesn't make sense...I had to pull out my phone flashlight to find the defogger switch. Shouldnt be like that. I'll see if I can figure out how to "fix" it, even if it's by design.

Seems incorrect to me. I haven't had a chance, but I'm going to pull some voltage/etc one of these days

I did the oil analysis in my Evora and they told me 3000 was quicker than necessary - I'll send them my first couple and see what they recommend

Thanks for adding your experiences! I wasn't planning an oil change until next season - I didn't remember there being any "break-in" notes in the build manual, is it recommended to do it early for the first one?

Pics for fun 😁

So after LOG last weekend, the car now has over 900 miles on it...and I have a list of things to look at. This thread is really just a collection of what I need to do. Coolant smell - I'm sure there's a leak somewhere, hopefully just some clamps need tightened Clunk when shifting/engaging drivetrain - quick Google give me a list of threads complaining about similar stuff, so maybe "normal" Missing screw on engine cover - looks like it worked itself out and fell out at some point Buzz at certain rpms - I'm not worried about this one, I'm sure it's just a resonance issue Idle bouncing between 1200 and 1800 rpms, need to do a little digging in that one Handbrake light comes on in hard right turns - probably a wire issue Three right most switches (defog, backfog lights, hazards) don't light up when lights are turned on, but do light up when they are flipped.. Lastly my wheel is very slightly off center by one spline. Anybody got anything else I should once over while looking at stuff? I went through and retorqued a bunch of nuts before I left for the drive, and found a surprising number not quite as tight as I expected.

Yeah I said hi briefly while you were chatting with Fred (the red Caterham), I was making sure you had the trailer work handled that you had mentioned here 😎

Ahh ok, yeah my half-hood was on for the drive up as it was cold and occasionally rainy - but I took it off when we got there

Voting placards for the concours - they do car show award types of thing

Just checked in, at registration they said 5 Caterhams are registered!

Yeah the silver part of the rack is offset, so the left and right tie rods themselves are different length. Measuring to the mounting block is the same on both side. Ok, so I'm confident that I'm good now 😀 Also this exercise helped me realize I had a slight coolant leak at the coupler above the rack, so that's good I guess

Ok so I'm thinking this through. Steering wheel currently straight turns one full turn to each side and ends up straight (maybe a degree or two more to the left). Parallel strings give me a reading of +1mm on each side, for a total of +2mm (shooting for spec of +2.5mm) Camber reads -2.4° on both sides. Probably more than I want (found a spec suggesting -1.5°) but I don't think 2.4 is super excessive. Therefore the wheels are parallel to each other and the steering wheel is square to itself, which means I'm good. Right?

Yes, lock to lock is one full turn in each direction.

Turning the wheel fully to both sides gives me the same mark on the steering column, within a couple mm at least. So....am I good then? Clearly I've never done an alignment myself before.

Measuring exposed threads on the ends, I'm at about 17mm left, 17mm right

So have it sitting on my lift right now,16 1/8 on the left and 17 1/4 on the right. Yeah seems like I'm pretty far off center. Would have been nice to have a detail about this in the build manual. But the steering rack itself isn't centered on the chassis...so not sure how much this matters...but I'll keep going down this rabbit hole

Well I'm definitely an amateur lol

Thanks, I'll do that

Well I FINALLY got around to string aligning my 7 this weekend, and honestly it was pretty easy to do myself. Hardest parts were getting the string parallel and keeping the pole on top of the 4x4s I ended up using at the front to get it through the middle of the wheel. I was only off about 5mm of toe overall, but my steering wheel was 45° off, which I knew just from driving. I found it easiest to line one wheel up at the correct measurement, then just adjust the other side in, then took the steering wheel off to square it. Not sure if that'll cause me issues in the long run, but I couldn't really come up with what it could do (aside from maybe limiting total turning radius in one direction?) Ready to drive the couple hundred miles to LOG 44 in Pittsburgh now!