supersportsp

I like the idea of a wellness blat!

The battery that I went through three of was a Ballistic Evo II 16. A more square dimension set-up than this one. They are out of business now, hence why the prices have gotten so low. Though, at this price it might be worth the risk again.

I'm lazy and tired of looking. Does anyone have any recs for small/lightweight, hopefully lithium batteries that are sub $300? I tried to run a Ballistic lithium battery for a couple of years, but it died every year, despite removing it and putting it on their charger off and on over the winter. I went through three of them, replaced under warranty. One failed by developing a big scary 'tumor', the other just died. Not surprised they went out of business. JohnCH ran the same battery and had much better luck with it however. I tried to order this battery twice from Jegs. https://www.jegs.com/i/XS-Power/703/LI-S545/10002/-1. It seemed very promising and I was excited to give it a whirl. However, XS Power is apparently a clown show, and they don't seem to be able to deliver batteries on time, if at all. Both times I ordered it, I kept getting updates from Jegs saying the delivery had been delayed, a couple of weeks each time. After two months last summer, I gave up and cancelled the order. When it looked like it was actually stocked by Jegs in late Oct last year I tried ordering it again. Again, delay after delay. I finally called XS Power directly since they drop ship for Jegs and was on the receiving end of a very unprofessional and unpleasant ranting from whomever I talked to there. My battery was supposed to have been shipped as of Nov 7th. As of late December they hadn't even made it yet and weren't planning on starting production until mid-January. He got pissed at me because I actually was expecting my battery in a timely manner, not whenever they got around to building it. Meanwhile, my $300+ had been in their hands since late October. I cancelled again immediately after that conversation. So, I'm back to square one. Are their any good similar size/weight batteries in this price range that anyone has experience with?

Ha! I don't even have a hydraulic clutch in my car.

'97 Caterham LHD with a carb'd Zetec. Issue: Hot day, had to do an emissions test and car got even hotter with extended running without movement. Pulled out from the testing station (I failed in case anyone thinks there is some kind of miracle EPA compliant Weber fed Zetec trick), and pulling onto the road the steering got very heavy, particularly on center. It was like the tires dropped to 2-3 lbs. I thought maybe at first it was the ZZR's sticking to the hot pavement, but the stickiness wasn't consistent over the whole range of the rack, with the issue more on center. Don't know what it is like for Crossflow folks, but with my Zetec and header, the steering shaft passes right between the header tubes, with maybe a 1/2" clearance. It probably gets quite toasty, particularly on 90+ degree days like it was yesterday. The header tubes are wrapped, but that is high heat intensity right next to the shaft. So, I am wondering if something is maybe happening with the shaft itself, or if it is conducting heat down into the rack and causing issues there. Once the car cooled down it drove totally normal. Anyone else ever have this issue.

I went through a hellacious process trying to figure out why nearly exact symptoms were plaguing my Zetec powered Caterham. Even though almost nothing pointed to the fuel pump, that ended up being the problem. It operated fine at start-up and while driving for short periods, once it got warm it would begin to be intermittent and then simply stop. Let the car cool down for awhile and it ran fine. This went on for many (too many) months while trying just about everything else (plugs, leads, ignition module, ecu, crank position sensor, battery wiring etc, etc.). Finally, a mechanic hooked up a sensor to the fuel pump while on a test drive and found it started to fail while driving.

https://www.theguardian.com/business/live/2016/oct/04/pound-dollar-low-construction-imf-brexit-business-live Pound just hit a 31 year low vs the dollar.

Didn't want to thread-jack, but I sent you a PM about the clutch cable.

Its great that Bruce was able to make this happen and that LuckyDawg was cool with loaning it out. I do have to agree with MoPho though, that locating a customer car from Seattle for a piece in NorCal seems a little out of the way. Why not just borrow a car from Hillbank's inventory in Irvine? They show 13 in inventory on their site. Was Caterham USA unresponsive or did they rebuff the author's request?

Sweet. Perhaps I will take my dad down there this weekend. That S3 looks pretty nice.

Yes, it was forecast to be a 10% weight reduction in the chassis. As noted above, the chassis barely weighs 55kg now.

Greetings folks, I have a carb'd (Weber 45 DCOEs) Zetec in my Caterham. The last two summers I have been experiencing issues which I now think appear to be vapor lock. Car gets hot driving around town/in traffic, starts to run rough, then dies. Let it cool down (hood off is faster) and car restarts and runs fine. Bruce from Beachman and I have been through all of the electrical issues and replaced and or revised a number of components that could be impacted by heat. But, the more I read, the more I think it is actually a fueling issue and likely vapor lock. Question is this. Has anyone else with carb'd cars had issue with this? I have seen some info that the gas formulations the last few years, particularly on the West coast are contributing into making carb'd cars more prone to this. If you did experience this, how did you solve it? Seek out optimal gas formulations? Modify the fueling system (ie move the fuel pump) to help limit or alleviate the issue?

45 DCOEs for the Webers. Using the Raceline intake. Mine is a non-SVT Zetec, with as I said a great deal of the Raceline catalog attached. I didn't build it, and the guy I bought the car from didn't know much about the motor at all (he also bought it used). I haven't had the engine open to see if I have Raceline cams or pistons/connecting rods. It is a healthy motor, but I would say 175 hp at the crank would probably be accurate. About the alternator and idler I have no idea as I don't have a stock frame of reference to work from. As I said, I think I am the 3rd or 4th owner of my car.

I have most if not all of the Raceline goodies on my Zetec, including the kit you mention. I also have their oil pan, cylinder head, intake manifold (with Webers), pretty much everything they have listed on their site on the outside of the motor. Not sure if my car has any of the cams or internals as I bought it used from a guy who really didn't know any history on the car (he bought it used himself). Very nice stuff, with great build quality.

So, I am interested in what you guys find out here. I have had a similar issue with my Caterham that I don't believe is fully resolved. Gots warm, starts running poorly like it is missing, then basically won't run at all. Let it sit awhile and cool down and it will run fine again. The one thing we really didn't look at was fueling, probably mainly because of the heat related cause. My car is a carb'd Zetec with electronic ignition. We looked at grounding issues, spark etc but I still think there is something going on.