G2sound

My water temp gauge reads about 100 degrees hot as well. Ever since I dropped in a new engine, when I turn on the ignition switch oil temp shows a reflection of outside air temp, but water temp is about 100 degrees hotter. I just gauge it in my mind appropriately. Have you found a fix?

I have an S1 and size 13 feet as well. Best shoes to drive in are Merrell Barefoots or, if you can deal with the toe thing, the Vibram Five Fingers are amazing. Plenty of room for my big dogs with either of these shoes.

Congrats on the S1!! Make sure to check the front fender mounts, both of mine broke right at the flange that attaches them to the body. Inspect them for hairline cracks just adjacent to the welds. If they look suspect, I would suggest taking them to a welding shop and having them reinforced... having one of them break on you in the middle of the desert would SUCK! A helmet wouldn't be a bad idea either. I wear one ever since some road debris whizzed by my ear and took a chunk out of the foam on the roll bar behind my head. Bon Voyage!!

I just put a crated Zetec Z3 into my S1. I have the entire stock Ford intake including injectors sitting in a box as I am using ITB's. Is this what you were looking for, or is it specifically a Caterham part that you need?

I pulled the cams from my old ZX1 engine and cannot identify what they are. They have "K.C.", "Sportcam", "CA" stamped into the shaft, then on the rear face of the cams (where the timing bar is inserted) they are stamped with "KDRL" over "200". Any idea what they are? They also had Kent adjustable timing gears on them and I'm assuming (maybe incorrectly) that the "K.C." stands for Kent Cams. Any help would be appreciated.

At long last, most of the engine/ drivetrain mods are finished and I'm ready to drop my spankin' new Zetec into S1 #0017... almost ready. I switched from a mechanical release bearing to a Hydraulic. It is the OE Ford part from a 2004-2009 Focus with WRT75 tranny Ford part #7A564. The trouble is that I can't find any info on the hose fitting for the slave cylinder end. Does anyone know what this fitting is called? It pushes into the top of the cylinder and is held in place by a circlip of sorts. I need to have a custom hose built, but need to know what the fitting is called. This is what the Slave cylinder looks like.

Not sure, I'll check tomorrow, but I suspect that they are the 2001. They drove pretty nicely, not too radical for the street.

I decided to buy a crated Zetec ZX3 engine to replace the tired old ZX1 in my S1. I popped the cam covers off of the old (ZX1) engine today and found that it has a pair of Kent Sportcams! Just wondering if anyone knows whether or not I can drop these cams into the new (ZX3) engine? If so, will I need to replace the stock followers, the stock springs, etc.?

Thanks for the heads-up on South Bend, I ordered a clutch assembly from them on-line yesterday (a bit to hastily... I have an aftermarket flywheel that will not fit the standard Zetec ZX3 clutch) then had to call and sort it all out today. They were great! They are building a custom one-off 8.5 inch clutch assembly for me at the same price as the off-the-rack part that I ordered! Highly recommend them for their service alone!

The wiper system on my S1 is very effective. I tend not to drive it when it rains, though.

I am swapping my older ZX1 Zetec engine for a spankin' new crated ZX3. The new engine came with the OEM Ford clutch and Flywheel. I am using the lightened steel flywheel from my old engine and was wondering if the OEM clutch will suffice or if I should upgrade. If upgrading, what do y'all suggest? FYI: Superformance S1 w/AEM stand alone ECU, Lumenition ITB's, otherwise dead stock.

I've looked into changing out the impeller to run the water in the opposite direction. Seems that the problem is that the pump body is designed for water flow in a single direction. Can cause cavitation, thus reduced water flow if you run the water in the opposite direction. I'll try giving Raceline a call. Thanks!

Does anyone have or know where I can find an Idler Pulley assembly for a ZX3 Zetec? I am building up a crate ZX3 to replace the ZX1 in my S1 and have read that an Idler pulley is necessary in order to make the water pump run in the correct direction. I found one on the Raceline site, but two emails to them have yielded no replies. Do they do business with customers in the USA? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

What year is the engine? What is your asking price?

If this is still available, I would love to speak with you about purchasing.

Hey MoPho, is that photo taken in front of Wilcox?

Just discovered that mine is a ZX1. Would the bell housing/tranny, intake manifold and engine mounts on ZX3 match up w/my ZX1?

My 2003 S1 has a Zetec engine, but is there any way to tell which version of the Zetec I have (ie. ZX1, ZX2 or ZX3)?

Has this engine sold? Would this be a direct replacement for a ZX2 engine or would mods be required?

Tap, Tap, Tap... That's my fingers as I wait for a call from the shop to tell me that it has started up and they are getting ready to put it on the dyno. Is this how it feels to quit smoking? I'M GOING MAAAAAAADDDDDD!!!!

Not sure what the model is. Small blue box w/ no interface. The only way to change parameters is to flash the chip. I went with the AEM. Easy interface, logging function, upgrades are free, etc. The loom is almost finished. Hopefully Dyno-Tuning on Saturday. Should have it back (it's been six weeks) by next week... fingers crossed!

Anyone have experience w/ AEM ECU's. They are U.S. made. My tuning shop is recommending them. Cost is around $2000 with an additional $300 for the harness. How does this compare to the Emerald and Pectel? Where can I buy Emerald in the U.S.?

According to my tuning shop, the GEMS ECU in my ZETEC powered Superformance S1 is antiquated and of questionable reliability. Anyone have a suggestion for a new stand-alone ECU that they have had good luck with?

So after replacing the fuel line with the cut, the "sputtering" problem continued, less often, but often enough that it is annoying. It also tends to stall at stop lights occasionally. I pulled the plugs and found them to be heavily fouled with carbon. Replaced with NGK irridiums, replaced the K&N air cleaners that had seen better days and new plug wires... problem persisted. Also alot of backfiring and smoke from the air cleaners on restart with backfires. Figured that it may be running rich (exhaust smelled like it is running rich) so I backed the fuel pressure off while the car was running. got it down to 29 psi (from 38 psi) and the idle speed increased and the idle smoothed out nicely. It now runs much better, the problem persists but occurs much more rarely. Don't want to lean it out any more for fear of burning a valve. I am going to take it to FSR in Montclair next week for a full tune. Keeping fingers crossed. Will post the results. Any additional ideas would be appreciated!

Gary, Thank you so much for the info!! I decided after my first test drive that a new exhaust was necessary... I am going to take your info to my nearest muffler shop and say "do this to mine". Also ordering the fuel cap today, tired of the fuel stains on my fender. A question about the "electronic demister"... does it actually work?