paulmpetrun

Anyone here from Ohio, and built a 7 from scratch? I have mine about done, and am thinking rather than jumping through Pa's hoops, I would register my car at my uncles house in Geneva, Oh. Is Ohio reasonable about registering a 7 that was not purchased as a kit and does not have any certificate of origin or a vin of any kind? Will they issue one once it passes there inspection? Also how tough are they for receipts? I have most, but just in case I don't have one for everything, I don't want to worry about having to explain nonsense. Lastly do they require a full windshield? A friend registered his Caterham there with only Brooklands screens, and from what I remember they told him to just get a windshield, but nothing more. But that was also 10 years ago, anything change? Thanks very much Paul Petrun

Mighty, I'd build two pronto! One for each u-joint. Your probably better off building something VERY strong rather than buying a universal one from summit or elsewhere! Mostly because if these fail on a regular car, theres still lots of hard bits between the driveshaft and your soft bits! Not so on a 7... Build them as close to the shaft as possible, that way if it fails they are contained and can only continue to spin, and not flail around. I had the front u-joint EXPLODE on my R1 powered seven at the redline in 6th on a track! Thankfully no passenger, as it ripped through the 3/4" square tubing cage that surrounded it like nothing was there. Then smashed my fire extinguisher, and mangled my passenger side(left side, car is RHD) kirkey seat. The only thing that saved me was the mounts for my driver seat. I made them out of 1" square tube with 1/8" wall. Its what I had laying around in the garage when building them, and wow was that lucky. The 1" tubing was shaped like a banana, where the shaft hit it, and was then deflected to the other side. On the new 7, the driveshaft loops are 1" round tube with 1/8" wall. Definately not something to take for granted in a 7. Good luck and enjoy! Paul

MHK, I already have the frame just trying to figure out an elegant solution for the mounts. I like welding the pieces together idea alot. Southwind, those Brooklands are gorgeous, that is a very nice job indeed! Mondo, that is very similar to what I was thinking of. Thanks for the pics! Are the bolts going to anything particular underneath, or just tab mounts on the frame?

Hey since I'm snowed in like everyone else, I thought what the hell, maybe go work on the 7! I am getting ready to build the windshield support stays and wondered what thickness others have used. I have 1/8" and 3/16" material to work with. Its funny 1/8th looks to thin and 3/16's to thick. Also any thoughts on design, I don't need it to look original, so anything simpler to build(something like what westfield uses is good) would be appreciated. If you have pics that would be even better! Thanks and stay warm Paul

Andrew7 Hey how about using some of that material they make the clear car bra's from. A few friends have it on there cars, and the paint actually looks better with it than without. One of the guys drives the full length of RT22 and RT28 from McDonald up to Kittaning every day for work(you know what those roads are like in the winter). His Scion still looks like new. That stuff is very tough. I think 3M makes it and you can buy it in different widths/lengths. You would get all of the protection of the stone guards but keep the simple clean look of bare fenders. Just a thought Take care Paul

That explains most of the playing catch with the arse end! I was wondering how worn his tires were or how hot it was. It seems to slide more and easier with every turn. I only ever overheated my rear tires 1 time on my BEC powered 7. It was at Beaver Run, at an August event and I turned my left rear tire a very nice shade of blue on the outer half. Otherwise my car always just glided through corners with the greatest of ease and control, sooooooooo much fun!

Hey trying to locate another local Pittsburgh 7 builder, Paul Brocious. I tried his old number and it doesn't work any more. If you read this please give me a call at 412-974-5695 or email me a new number paulpetrun@yahoo.com. Or if some one else knows him, please direct him to this thread or ask him to call me. Thanks Paul Petrun 412-974-5695