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About Tony

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  • Location
    Champaign, IL
  • Se7en
    1993 Caterham Super 7 Super Sprint
  1. Thanks Anker, I'll try richening them up a bit, evenly across the carbs. When this happens though, it only lasts the snap of a finger. Like a switch turned off and on quickly. Initially, at low rpms, you can feel it through the car and hear it cut out for an instant. Doesn't occur regularly or evenly. Tony
  2. Good Morning, My Seven arrived in boxes as a kit for the first owner. There is nothing in the manual about attaching the arm rest. It is worn out and needs to be refurbished. Anyone recall how it comes off? Thanks, Tony
  3. Good Morning, My Seven has developed a curious momentary power loss mostly during warm up, more noticeable at lower rpms. Accelerating slowly, there is a momentary blip of a power loss. No sound, no backfire, pop, just loses power for a briefest instant. Seems more prevalent at lower rpms and smooths out as RPMs increase, but occasionally noticeable. Not problem on the road, seems to go away when hot, but initially will happen four or five times. Makes me nervous about longer trips should whatever it is fail. What would you check or suggest replacing?
  4. Carbs back on, alternator replaced, ready to go. Except for concerns about wiring I'm ready to connect the battery and hope for the best. One more question though. With all lights off, key off, no other things on that I'm aware of, Should there be any voltage measured between ground cable and negative post? Even with all alternator leads disconnected I'm getting 12.68v. Would there be anything on all of the time?
  5. Good morning, Noticed a trail of sticky material under my alternator which migrated inside the alternator. Required professional help to clean out the alt and replace the voltage regulator. The tech said that if the small lead (Brown/Yellow) next to the two large leads was grounded, it would cause the reg. to overheat. Sure enough, it shows about 54 Ohms. That lead goes directly to Ignition warning light, Tach, Oil Pressure light, Water temp guage, heater switch, rear fog switch, on and on and on...... Seems to me that any number of those connections might be grounded on purp
  6. I picked up my first Lotus 7 on the docks of New York on an early Spring day. I'd never driven a Seven until that morning. Drove it straight through back to Illinois. Took the Penn Turnpike through the mountains at night, rainy in the low 30s being passed by semis and hitting potholes that should have swallowed the car. That was the greatest trip of my lifetime. Sorta itching to take my '93 Supersprint on a adventure this summer........
  7. Gentlemen, Noticed antifreeze around the outer top lip of my '93 SuperSprint radiator. Found that it was weeping at the front. Most posts seem to be about aluminum radiators, but mine is bronze colored. Leak starts at the front and spreads around the lip slowly. Also noticed a bright green rough patch on the top, side of the radiator, underneath the metal mounting plates that fold over the top. Hoping that is external corrosion; not leaking at this point. Seems like the seam could be repaired, pretty straight forward. Anyone have this problem before or deal with such a repa
  8. I did a basic rebuild on my two carbs, mounted them with new O-rings, tuned them and they ran fine. Plugs looked good. Now I am noticing occasional snapping at low rpm/idle. Went to retune and noticed that pressing down or pulling up on the carbs changes the rpm. (One acts one way, the other is the opposite) Before I tune, I want to tighten them correctly. I assume that having them correctly sealed/mounted would be a prerequisite to being able to correctly adjust the idle mixtures. Question. When the rpm increases, does that indicate an air leak or a proper seal? I am not sure if I n
  9. So, last Spring I rebuilt the dizzy with a Pertronix, eliminating the old skirt-style rotor, and did a basic refurb of the Weber 45DCOE's on my 1993 Supersprint engine. Ran perfectly, not a cough, pop or hesitation from 0-6000 rpm. As the Summer progressed the cough, pop and hesitation slowly returned. I just replaced the rotor and inspected the old one. A bit of rough surface, but no evidence of any real problems. I really expected to see some problems in the dizzy, but nothing seemed severe. The fuel filters were clean, spark plugs 2,3 showed a bit of richness, but other than tha
  10. So the car is so light and takes so little braking to stop that the pressure on the switch never makes it to the point of turning on the brake lights....... Got to love it. Will be checking the recommendations for a lower PSI switch. Also may go the mechanical route, but would like to stay more original. That switch from summit racing looks very close. Wondering if it is a direct swap thread-wise? Thanks all for the many insights. For now I'll show braking with my hand.... Wonder if that will satisfy an officer of the law......
  11. It was simple. Pumped the brakes a few times and then really pressed hard and the brake lights came on. Expect that the pressure switch is getting stiff and needs to be replaced. Next question. Anyone know a part number for the switch? Nothing in the build manual about it. This is on a 1993 Caterham Seven. The pressure switch is mounted on a small cast aluminum block on the rear brake line, about one foot from the brake cylinder. Thanks again. Tony
  12. Just found out my brake lights weren't working. So I went through the steps. Fuse OK. Power to brake pressure switch OK. Removed bulbs, checked power back to bulbs; OK when brake pedal pushed. Bulbs checked OK with ohm meter. Insert bulbs, press brake pedal.......... no brake lights. Very strange and baffling. Running light filament of same bulbs work fine, just not brakes. Both have the same ground. Anything obvious I am missing? Any thoughts? Got to be something simple..... Thanks much. Tony
  13. How is it when you park your Seven in an empty parking lot, you come out and find people parked on both sides and in front of it? Think I've found the solution........
  14. I am hearing an annoying squeak when I turn the steering wheel. I've assumed that it is the bushing. Is there any way to lubricate it? I have to take the wheel off anyway to repaint the hub. Perhaps that would provide better access to the bushing. There is a contact ring between the dash and the hub for the horn button contact, but I don't see any way it comes off. Appreciate your insights. Tony
  15. Just measured the resistance in my plug wires, original '93 Lucas Silicone, three were around 7400 ohms, one was 11,400. Would that be enough variation to effect performance? Would be easy now to replace them all with carbs off and dizzy in plain sight......
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