Tony

Would have probably never known unitl the master cylinder started leaking. Having the pedal repaired now, will look into a different clevis. Thanks.

Pulled the valve cover and found what EdWills mentioned, "The Kent VS7 is a double spring assembly for road/rally use recommended by Kent with the 224, 234, 244 or A3 camshaft , and is considered extra strong as compared to the original single Ford valve spring." Definitely dual spring, but could not see any other details without removing one of the sets of valve springs....... So, looks like I won't know until the shop opens it up. Would imagine these seals are fairly easy to come by, once we know what type of guides are there. Appreciate the input everyone!

Replacing my clutch cylinder in my ‘93 Super Sprint and found the linkage to the pedal very worn. Is the threaded arm supposed to have that long slot at an angle? Or could it be wear? The pin has a ring depression the center of its shaft, strange. Is there a part number for the arm? Supplier? The hole in the pedal is worn as well, may need to be machined, want to put it all in order. Thanks! Tony

Thanks Ed! I will likely take it to a local shop to have the seals done. Looks like I won't know which to order until they pull off the valve cover. I know that SuperSprint engine had a mild cam, larger valves and I think stronger springs, but as to what they did on their heads, otherwise, I can't say. I'll copy all of the above to share with them and continue to dig for specifics about my engine. Tony

Thank you for your input. As to the bronze valve guides, is there reference info on which heads have them? Would there be a serial number on the head that might shed light? I'd be willing to have the seals installed if I can narrow down the correct ones. Found Fiesta 6166553, Kent V57 and Burton FP704A//FP705A. Any ring a bell? Just want to be sure I get the correct, recommended seals. On the oil pressure sensor, is there a particular part number that comes to mind? Know the engine is the Kent Ford 2265, 1600GT, but a google search turned up a bunch of options.... In the event I have the head reconditioned, any suggestions on shops that are familiar with the SuperSprint Engine? Again, thanks. Really appreciate such detail! Tony

I've noticed that when I start the engine, the oil pressure guage reading jumps up to around 4, but does not come down as it usually does. Usually, previously, upon startup, the oil pressure jumps up, but once warm, drops down to the 2-3 level. Now, it just stays up for a long time, dropping down at low rpm only after a period of time. It does not appear to be temperature related because this happens even when the engine is very hot. Sound like the oil pressure sending guage? Appreciate your thoughts. My Kent, '93 super sprint engine is now smoking, A LOT upon start up and when I tap the gas pedal. Cloud of blue on startup, large puffs when tapping the gas. I've been using a variety of "stop smoke" products but to no avail. I see no valve stem oil seals which are shown in Tony Weales diagram of the Kent Ford engine. I've been told both that those engines DO NOT use the valve stem oil seals and that they do. Looking for a way to reduce the smoking, perhaps installing such seals would be a relatively easy way to correct the problem. Engine has only 21,000 miles. General thoughts? I am not interested in overhauling the engine or remove the head for a valve job......... Thanks much, Tony

Thank you for the photo! I tried my 1" socket on it and it felt a bit loose. Don't want to mess it up, need the right/new socket. Will check out your pegasus link for specifics. The oil tube connectors on the pump are frozen immovable, probably been there since '93. May end up cutting them just to get it all out.

It is a '93 Super Sprint xflow with standard wet sump and oil cooler. Appears that it may have blown out where the tube enters the fitting, but can't see/say for sure. Definitely not at the fitting. As for the special fitting, haven't taken it all off yet...... Looking for diagrams for clarity. Thanks.

My '93 Sprint just lost all of its oil suddenly due to the failure of one of the oil pipes. Sounds like just removing the cooler is the best approach. Not having ever removed it, anything extra I'll need to remove/replace the sandwhich plate? Hardware, anything else? Thanks, wasn't relishing the idea of changing the pipes...... Tony

Gentlemen, Thought about the carb gasket leak, ie vibration damper, gave each of the nuts a 1/2 turn and it seems to have done the trick. Yes! No removal of carbs........ yet. Thanks for that hint! Will run out the gas now that it is running better and refill with fresh. Appreciate the insights. Thanks, Tony

Very strange. When I first start the '93 Super Sprint engine, carbs 1 & 4 chuff and you hear hollow pops out of the exhaust. Let it run until really hot and the symptoms disappear. After that it runs great, but when cold it runs really rough. Never had this problem before, wondering if the temperature rise causes something in the carbs to change or it is related to ignition. Have over-the-winter storage gas in it now, planning on refreshing it soon. Also waiting for recommended new B8ECS plugs (lost in transit from UK) to replace the current BPR8ES plugs which have a resistor. The B8ECS plugs do not have the resistor and from what I understand, the Aldon Ignitor requires plugs w/o resistor. Any of this ring a bell, make sense? Baffled as to the cause, interested in your thoughts. Thanks, Tony

You folks are Great! Thank you for all of the suggestions, reviewed them all, repeatedly, dug into the timing and found the rotor spline one tooth off. Could have sworn we checked that, but it finally started. Had replaced the battery after removing the carbs. Once re-installed it was running really rough. Lifted the front of the carb and it smoothed out. Seems it was sucking air around the vibration damper inserts. Once tightened it ran much better. Do appreciate all of the input. Thank you! Tony

It ran fine before storage, battery died, replaced battery via jumpers (carbs have to come off to actually replace the battery), wouldn't turn over. Tried push starting in 2nd several times, no luck, but extreme jerks and jolts, pops ending with an ugly metallic clank. Brought it home, replaced battery, got it running, but very rough. Cleared carb jets, then discovered a bad plug wire. At that point, added new wires, cap and rotor, followed by new ignitor. Turns over gangbusters but would never run. That metallic clank has me spooked, that's why I was wondering about slippage somewhere. Top photo with mark is where the rotor turned to while removing, #1 cap contact is at the double marks in the lower photo while still installed. Did check plug wires, correct with 1243 firing order. Good idea to check voltages, plugs were firing. May take some time to get these suggestions worked through. Thanks!

Right on the double plates, did use the lockout link, plus new magnet ring. Have an email in to Pertronix with a photo to determine if it is correct. Hope that settles it. At this point can't even get the car to run, need some definitive answers and maybe start looking elsewhere......

Will send a photo to pertronix to see if it is installed incorrectly, was wondering about that.