Fimi 7

New listed MK Indy in the US for sale - Almost a money no object build.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/153550539088

Just posted this for sale on eBay. Not sure if anyone is interested. It's really a top notch setup, only selling it because I need the money. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151494605292&alt=web

http://store.schnitzracing.com/exoticycle-oil-filter-relocator-suzuki-gsx1300r-hayabusa-99-14-gsxr1000-01-14-gsxr750-00-14-gsxr600-00-14/

Went to BJ's today and noticed they had covered areas for their carts, thought of this post....

To be honest, I would not worry about it too much. You get very used to them quickly and sometimes learn to like the sound. Makes the car feel more raw.

Just as an FYI - The UK Ford Sierra and Merkur Differential have small differences. I think the splines are different or the push in distance differs. The casing is about the same for the 7.5, if you have the 7" Sierra, double check. I used the Sierra 7" with Miata Hubs. I had custom shafts made by the Drive Shaft Shop. Its perfect.

Nice log. Need to ask a favor. Can you post a few photos of the westfield Miata front wheel wings. I made my own and have had issues with them coming lose. What I am trying to understand is how they built the brackets to bolt to the hub and hold on the wings Anyone else has photos please share

Let me guess. http://kemptechnologies.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Dr.-Evil-One-Million-Dollars.png

I learnt this lesson several years ago in a GT3 race toyota, gear down when ready to accelerate out of the corner, not when going into, it looks and sounds pretty on a race car, but the timing of gearing down is tricky. With that said, my suggestion would be to just buy a complete fresh motor. Strip off the good stuff from the blown motor and go again. Dump things like the oil cooler and lines, you will never get the metal parts out of it. I am running the hayabusa and based on what I have read, going with Carillos is not a bad thing, but the gain in reliability is marginal. What most have found is the supercharger/turbo kits are the best bang for the buck with as minimal changes as possible to the engine. If you are going to build a big power motor, give up on reliability. If you want reliability, either keep it stock and drive restrained, beef up the motor for reliability and not performance or move to a car motor.

The dash looks familiar. Is that Hanks old car?

Pay close attention to the oil and clutch systems. There is a main shaft in the gear box that might also be a good thing to change. Most of the sevens running bec are under 1100, a couple 100 more pounds could really wear on it.

Actually the GSXR 1000 and the Hayabusa share almost the exact same parts, its just a bigger bore. Meaning either will work. I am at present running a Hayabusa, ended up choosing that over the 1000 for the minor jump in torque. Alot of the guys in the UK run the 1000 to meet a regulatory racing requirement, where they are competing with other sevens running the R1 or Honda CBR 9XX engines. It works.

Just in case anyone ever needs to know. its 22mm X 1.5. Hand to re-tap my block this week and finally got the right one after buying a few different sizes. Note this is for a K8. After talking to a few Hayabusa guys I found out that the older models are smaller. Do not know that size but I know its smaller. Got the wrong plug first and it did not fit.

I bought the same package from http://www.diyautotune.com/ directly. Great package. Would strongly suggest spending the extra money and buying their crimp tool too. After killing a few of the ends I ordered mine and have not had a problem since. The kit also does not come with anything under 18 gauge, so if you plan in doing any really thin wiring like for the dash you will need to buy the 22 gauge separately. Worth every dime. Makes wiring much easier and simpler. I have been using a silver marker so every one of my connectors has a number which is documented.

Posted on Ebay if anyone is interested