Red Duck

The car is sold to a good home in Florida.

Hello yes the car is tucked up in the garage keeping warm. I live in Greenwich, Ct. Send me your email address to steve_cowley@yahoo.com

A few people have asked about registering this CSR. I registered the car in Montana, owned by the LLC that I own in that State. It was a very simple process. If anyone is concerned we could leave the car registered as is and I would transfer ownership of the LLC itself.

Yep, the car is still for sale

A 2013 CSR, registered in Montana

My car is for sale again as the buyer had to pull out due to some bad luck. Pretty much all the info is in this thread. On the curved dash point...I didn't like it. The curved dash comes with tubes down the center between the two seats and it gets hot. It also intrudes a bit into the cabin. I thought the flat carbon dash looked neater and its certainly better in summer. Anyway, that was my choice. Please contact me if you're interested. Steve

Hi yes its the standard Caterham 6 speed. The lowered floors are because I am 6ft 1 and it is more comfortable behind the screen. If I was ever to put it on a track then the helmet would also easily pass the broomstick test.

Thanks for the enquiries. I am thinking $60k.

I am considering selling my 2013 CSR260 . The picture is from the day it was handed to me in August 2013 having been built by Jon at Caterham USA in Denver. I had the car shipped from Denver to Connecticut by Gary Straight and I am afraid I have not used it as much as I expected. I have never taken it on a track nor has it ever seen rain. The car is as delivered, except its done 520 road miles. The chassis was $55,150 from Caterham UK, the motor $16,000 from Cosworth UK and Jon charged $6,000 to build it. All in the total was $77k. The specification is attached but essentially it is standard plus $10k of options like the proper roll bar, seats, carbon and lowered floor. The car is road registered in Montana, located in southern Connecticut and in my garage. Serious enquiries only please.

My CSR is 134 in long and the Uhaul "6x12" actually has an side dimension of 138 in so no ability to tie down. More of a problem is the door entrance which is 60in and my CSR is 68in wide.

I have been unable to find a place to rent a large enough enclosed trailer. Uhaul etc only rent up to a 6ft by 12ft and I don't think a CSR would fit.

Thanks everyone. At the risk of stating the obvious, by buying / importing / building a superlight CSR260, I have clearly demonstrated that common sense is something I lack. And having burned $100k doing it, I also lack fiscal responsibility. The thing I am mulling over the winter months is how to get more use out of the thing next year. I can rent a uhaul trailer, or buy my own, but you still have the tires / tools / fuel to move around in the SUV which is a drag. It's also a drag if you're going to trailer it to, say, Atlanta for a long weekend. If it rains it's not great on the open trailer. And leaving it in the car park of a hotel as you break the 800 mile journey is not great either. So I was thinking of renting a truck and putting it in the back. Not possible to rent a truck designed for this purpose. Anyway, doesn't sound like a great idea. Back to the drawing board

I want to move my CSR in a truck that has a load height of 2ft 9in. I don't have the truck right now to give it a try. Any advice on getting a CSR over that lip into the truck? How long will I need loading ramps to avoid grounding the thing? Wooden plank from home depot = long enough but strong enough? Steel ramp from Harbor Freight = strong enough but long enough? Help!

Thanks everyone, I decided to order the 'OEM' UFI ones. The CSR is going great but I'm not getting out much, to say the least. 300 miles in 2 years will cause eye rolling on this forum for sure. I am thinking to move the car to my place near Atlanta and join the Atlanta Motorsports Park. It's billed as Monticello for 'normal' people. I will go and check it out shortly.

I looked online at the WIX 51335 and it has Outer Diameter: 3.67inches. Now that I look online with Napa, thats the exact same with their Napa 1335. The UFI 23 11800 has an outside diameter of 78mm which in real money is 3inches. The problem with the Napa 1335 I purchased is that whilst the thread/gasket fits, the space is so tight you cannot get the outside diameter in the space. Other than getting Rock Auto or Caterham to ship from the UK, and waiting for that long, does anyone know of an equivalent filter that has an outside diameter of 3 inches?

Sure? I bought a napa 1335. Doesn't fit. the motor is a duratec, CSR260. Any advice

Can anyone tell me what the equivalent of a UFI 2311800 oil filter is for a CSR260? Just doing the first oil change and would rather not have to wait for Caterham to ship from the UK

On the trailer subject. I'm looking for anything better than than the huge open car trailer that uhaul rent. Ideally an enclosed trailer for rent - so at least the size/weight is worth it. Cannot find anywhere to rent one that's with several hours of my home in Greenwich CT. Any tips welcome.

Um..so you cannot buy a CSR?

Does anyone know of a firm that RENTS enclosed trailers large enough for a Caterham (CSR). I tried UHaul and their largest is 12x6 (with a 5 ft opening). Thanks

Thanks Croc. There are two rings, left and right, under the nose cone of my CSR. Both look fragile but I guess it's not a lot of weight to be pulling out of the kitty litter. I'm trying to find a solution to getting the car to various track days this year having finally got the car on the road.

Recently taken delivery of a new CSR260. I'm going to be using it on track days and so need a front & rear tow point. In some places it's course regulations. But its good practice since the marshal cannot be relied upon to look beyond a big red arrow with 'tow' written on it. If the suspension isn't already bent by the time the marshal attaches the tow, it will be afterwards Can anyone give me advice on where and how? Thanks

I am having a tiresome problem with the speedo on my new CSR260. When traveling at a steady speed, the speedo reads what I believe to be accurate. But when accelerating, the needle flutters and, under hard acceleration, it goes to zero and swings wildly. Again, when back to a steady speed it returns to normal. I have adjusted the pickup on the right rear axle. I have tried the largest gap (when the light only just comes on as it picks up each tooth), all the way to the smallest gap, and several settings in between. I don't recall if any of the settings I have tried are materially better than any other, but just know that none of them make it work properly. Any tips? Thanks, Steve

I bought from Omex their sequential shift lights which are small but bright. Ideal for what I need except I had problems fitting them. They are designed for 12v coil negative which on a CSR would mean cutting into the harness at the ECU (not acceptable). The tach signal is a 5v square wave and won't work. After talking to Omex they have sent another part which is essentially an amplifier of the tach signal taking it from 5V to 12v. You wire it in series between the tach and the shift lights. If you're considering the Omex lights make sure to ask them for this widget as your order. It is free but they don't volunteer it as it costs them money. Annoying as it wasted time in fitting as well as waiting for the widget in the post.

Thanks Dave. I would be very grateful if you found a minute to upload a picture of how it looks. How did you get the wire inside the roll bar at the point where the light is mounted on the top hoop of the bar? And how did you attach the light to the bar? Thanks