jevs Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 (edited) Anyone know of a good hood to scuttle gasket for a Stalker XL. It must be 1/2" wide or less and as thin as possible (1/16" or so, maybe a little thicker). Adhesive backed. I am not going to do the little rubber bumpers like originally planned. I got my hood all fitted as far as the hood clamps and hinges go. I spent a great deal of time with a heat gun forming the hood and getting it close. However there is too big of a gap on the corners between the scuttle and the hood. It just kind of moves around, so it needs to be supported and properly gapped. So, I took the wire wheel to the lip of the scuttle and stripped all the gel coat off. I need to find a robust strip to use as a gasket to go any further. I will attach a piece to the inside of the hood and then glass the scuttle until it matches perfect. Then when the car is painted I will pull the strip off the hood and put a new piece on the scuttle. I just have to have the strip in place to make the glass the right thickness on the scuttle. I am also thinking of eliminating the jog where the body line is near where the scuttle meets the upper frame rail. This is an area that is not needed. The scuttle lip can just come straight down so there is not weird area to attach a seal there. The hinges I am using hold the hood in place in all directions, so no backer support for that little area is fine. All I can find so far is foam stuff that would tear and anything in rubber seems to have a bulb which makes it too thick. I will post some pics of my progress on my build log soon. I have spent a lot of time on the hood making some other fixes too. There is still much to do, but I am stuck until I find an appropriate seal/gasket/bumper. I looked on McMaster Carr some, but it is hard to tell what material will actually be close to the stuff used as car seals. Edited November 10, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 After talking with this company I ordered from them based on what they suggested. The shipping was too high and it might take awhile to get, but I could not find this size anywhere else. I bought more than I need because I need a sacrificial piece. http://rubbersheetroll.com/neoprene-rubber-strips-commercial-grade.htm NEOPRENE RUBBER STRIPS, ADHESIVE BACKED, .062 THK X .500 WIDE 10FT $ 9.50 Quantity: 2 Item total: $ 19.00 Subtotal: $ 19.00 Shipping and Handling: $ 18.83 Order Total: $ 37.83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Isn't that similar to the stuff they have at home depot to seal windows and doors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) I don't think so. This is supposed to be more like rubber instead of foam tape. I talked to the guy on the phone and discussed what I was looking for and using it for. The problem with these materials is that it is hard to really know what it is like until you have it in your hand. I was not looking for squishy weatherstripping. I am hoping it is more like the rubber bumpers I tried first or at least something not too soft and pretty tough. I will report back when I get it. Edited November 11, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 I just looked at the data sheet from that website and it says it is DUROMETER 60A NOMINAL According to this web page that is like tire tread: http://mykin.com/rubber-hardness-chart This should be about what I wanted. I will keep my fingers crossed. The guy on the phone also used the tire tread description when I was discussing the hardness with him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I can't suggest where to find it other than a dealership but I have seen newer cars with a v-shaped thin rubber strip as a secondary seal above doors....seems to some sort of self adhesive attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Try your local lumber yard, look for window seal. I got a 1" wide strip, foam rubber about 3/16" thick and comes with an adhesive backing. Dave W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) I have not seen anything at the lumber yards, big box lumber stores, McMaster, or Grainger, or elsewhere that meet my requirements. McMaster had some stuff, but not less than 2" wide I believe. I already ordered the stuff I posted previously. So, now it is just a matter of waiting for it to get here. I am working on ordered the fuel line stuff now. The fuel kit I bought from Brunton won't work for me due to being made for only a 40 micron pre-filter. The insufficient fuel filter call out requires changing things up to add a slightly larger pre filter and a post filter. So that was kind of money wasted I am also changing some of the fittings to keep it more -8AN instead of hopping up and down through the system with a mix of sizes. Now the only -6 will be from the regulator to the fuel rail. I am hoping I can still use the long line. I won't know until I get the rest installed. Edited November 11, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I think I had a blonde moment.... My/our 2013 Dodge Dart has the thin v shaped seal over the doors. It actually has 2 sealing lips, about 3/4" wide, would easily flatten to 1/8" thick, looks like it was adhesive backed. Sounds like just what the doctor ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOTTTCAR Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I bought mine from McMaster but this place has the biggest variety of rubber molding I have found and they will ship you samples so you can try it out inorder to get the right one for the job. Literally hundreds to choose from. Gale http://www.restorationspecialties.com Gale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 1/8" is really too thick. I would have to cut down even more of the lip in the center. As it is, the 1/16" bumpers I had on there put the hood at level in the center even after taking almost all the gel coat off in the center. A simple flat strip was all I needed. Nothing that needs to be compressed or actually provides a seal. Also, those seals on the dart are likely not long enough and may be shaped to the window (have not seen it). They are also probably more expensive. If anyone is looking for a hood seal that has compression or is thicker than 1/16", I found many inexpensive alternatives. The 1/16" thick and 1/2" wide is what was making it hard to find. Here are some.... http://www.steelerubber.com/peel-n-stick-extrusions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedwagon Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Being an ex-electrician I use rubber splicing tape. just be careful not to stretch it. Also have a bulk roll of tube patch material that should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 I need the same stuff as a replacement for my early Caterham. I have some pond liner material left over, it's rubber made by Pirelli and appears to be a heavy inner tube rubber. The only challenge I see is how to cut a strip about 5/8" wide and keep both cuts straight and parallel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 I need the same stuff as a replacement for my early Caterham. I have some pond liner material left over, it's rubber made by Pirelli and appears to be a heavy inner tube rubber. The only challenge I see is how to cut a strip about 5/8" wide and keep both cuts straight and parallel. Maybe lay it out on a sheet of plywood, 2x4, 2x6, or whatever you have laying around. Pull it with just a tiny bit of tension and fasten it down on both ends. Then make two slits with an X-Acto knife and a straight edge. Then when you have the two perfectly spaced slits, cut the ends out. This is what I would try. But then you still need an adhesive that will hold it. Welders glue seems to hold about anything, but I doubt it would come off easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyB Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Maybe lay it out on a sheet of plywood, 2x4, 2x6, or whatever you have laying around. Pull it with just a tiny bit of tension and fasten it down on both ends. Then make two slits with an X-Acto knife and a straight edge. Then when you have the two perfectly spaced slits, cut the ends out. This is what I would try. But then you still need an adhesive that will hold it. Welders glue seems to hold about anything, but I doubt it would come off easy. Good idea, thanks. I think a good cleaning followed by a good contact adhesive should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Welders glue??? That's a new one to me.... Have any other description? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 (edited) http://www.homaxproducts.com/Browse-Homax-Products/Welder-Adhesive-Professional-2-1-oz-Tubes Stuff seems to stick to anything. I use it to glue my foamy 3d planes back together. I have used it to glue kids nerf toys back together and toy cars etc. It is kinda like a contact glue. You put it on both pieces let it set for about a minute or two then stick them together. I have also used it just to glob things together (not relying on contact procedure). You could get this stuff at Lowes. I haven't bought any for awhile and usually buy stuff online so I don't waste my time. Oh, I used in the middle of winter to glue polycarbonate lenses back into exterior LED lighting in my soffit also. So, it holds up to heat and cold well. We get 0-100 degrees around here (Missouri). It is snowing today (white outside). Time to buy a plow for the lawn mower. Edited November 16, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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