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Dave W

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Everything posted by Dave W

  1. Reverse polarity, check all your connectors to the gauge.
  2. There are other options, if you need to meet Ontario requirements, i.e. your typical split plastic or braided cable covers. The only problem is you have to order them by wire bundle diameter. Then you end up trying to fit 10 lbs into a 5 lbs bag trick half the time. Which ever way you go, I would advise that you only use tape on the short small bundle wire runs. Dave W
  3. If warping a wiring harness, check out an industrail supply or electronic shop for spiral warp. It will go on much quicker then tape, and can be removed, it can expand if you need to add a wire or modify the harness. You can also use it on your brake and fuel lines. Next year when you add a air horn and have to take half the harness apart, you will be you did. davew
  4. I’m just an old fat that raced a looong time ago when you used carbs and no exhaust-temp or A/F sensors. It’s not hard to figure out that if you are burning the ground strap off the plugs you have detonation. I’ve been thinking there is another possible contributing factor. You may have such an efficient combustion chamber that the spark lag time is shorten at high RPM. Some race motors need the ignition advance reduced on top end because the flame front travels much faster at high RPM. That might show the two marks on the ground strap, if the advance curve is flat, say after 2,000 RPM. If that is the case you would see the correct timing at mid-range but have too much on top end. In either case you still need to reduce timing. Also, the A/F ratio and/or cylinder distribution is probably contributing to the detonation since it is only two cylinders??? I would think the dyno tuning would have an exhaust sniffer to determine WOT mixture. After the tune, I would still pull the plugs at the race track just to verify the state of tune. $hit happens, that you only see at the track! You need to look at the base of the plug right where the ceramic and steel meet. You need to see a narrow 1/8” wide dark grey ring at the base. A wider ring is rich and a small or no ring is lean, and the timing mark on the ground strap should near the bend, NOT past the bend. One thing I do is save the last set of plugs [in cylinder order] just to be able compare them, to look for any A/F mixture or timing changes after race day.
  5. I may be off base, but looking at the single plug photo again, could there be two heat marks on the ground strap. One pass the bend "advanced timing mark on the strap and a 2nd mark closer towards the center "correct timing". Any possibility that you have an actual timing change occurring at very high RPM? An external ignition pick-up that vibrates or goes into resonance? Dave W
  6. From the photos, you do not see any detonation on the two plugs. Which might mean the condition is for a very short period. Tip coloring indicates slightly less timing needed, back off 2 degrees. The single plug show very rich at idle and lean at WOT. The best indicator for WOT is at the base of the ceramic. You need a clean throttle chop, while de-clutching for a good plug read. Dave W
  7. Seb That's bad news, melted plug electrode pumped thru your motor, cannot be good!! Is it possible that the squish band directs a stream right at the plug electrode. Do you index your plugs? Is it always the same cylinders or position of the electrode in the cylinder? I would look into going with a retracted gap plug, at lease on race day. I have never run them on the street, they probably would not last very long, but better then a new motor. If you have a killer "CD" ignition system you could try surface gap plugs Dave W
  8. Cheap insurance is to carry a bottle of octane booster when on the road. I've had good luck with Klotz and 104. Dave W
  9. You are asking for a hell of a lot in frame and suspension dimensional consistency, to be able to use the same shims for all SV or Standard frames, in setting up for optimum handling. Do it right, it will only take a couple hours. Set up a frame center line. I used fishing line. Set a straight edge or another line at a right angle, and adjust both front and rear wheel setbacks. Once that initial shim(s) is set, you then go to caster and then camber settings. I would also make the frame center line marks permanent. You may need them again in the future. Dave W
  10. Take a new sharping stone "that is level / flat" and carefully smooth the rusted surface on the block. It will only take a minute to correct the surface. I use the same process around each of the block head bolt holes, that pull up slightly from the dock surface. Dave W
  11. I'm is South Lyon and always up for a blat! For good local roads, check out North Territorial and Dexter Trail starting just north of Gregory and for a slow tour try Huron River Drive, it's posted at 35 MPH. There are several other good local roads, but typical for Michigan the road surface is $hit. Also careful on Huron River Drive. Ann Arbor is 6th in the nation for speed traps. Dave W
  12. If the in gear does not work, you may be able to lock the flywheel thru the starter opening. You will need a 2nd person, or method to expand a wedge tight between the flywheel and against the housing.
  13. That small blemish in the real world probably would not cause any issues. It's the bluing marks on the lobes which indicate a high heat condition. What is causing the high friction? Cam profile, oil or possible oil passage blocked, lifter bucket, possible break-in procedure, machining error ? That's the million $$$$ question. First, try by eliminating what it is not, starting with the easiest possibility first. Dave w
  14. If you look at the wear pattern on the lobes, they are not consistent from one lobe to another. Typically they appear to be simular for any given cam profile. Could actually be the cam grinder did not do a second spark out on the profile? Dave w
  15. Check you valve lifter buckets. Do they rotate freely? Dave w
  16. I would check for debris in the threads. If that is not the issue, then I would try Permatex thread sealant # 80632. This is the type of sealant used on engine bolts that go into the water jack or crank case. Does not harden, so there is not a removal problem. Dave W
  17. If you have a steel oil sump, you may want to extend the skid plate under the oil pan. There is a good chance that the object you contact will not slide across the pan, but actual crush in the bottom of the oil pan. See photo of extended plate added for sump protection, which cover the bottom of the oil pan.
  18. I would visit locostusa and find a member close to your location. He/She should already have the tooling to form the aluminum channel. They should also be able to direct you to a local glass shop that can cut the safety glass from your template. I'm on my 2nd windshield an both pc's were less the $100. If you want a 1st class windshield frame they can connect you with a supplier that has aluminum extruded channel with the outboard corners radiused. Must builders set the glass in rubber Vs glue, and use screw Vs rivets for the assembly. Dave W
  19. There is also Grattan and Waterford tracks close by. Dave W
  20. The caliper alignment and or mounting bracket is not perpendicular to the disc. If it is not a lot, you just need to bed in the pads. But I would first check the mounting bracket bolts. You could try re- torque the bolts, while some one applies brakes. Torque up in sequence. If that does not solve the issue you will probably have to shim. Davew
  21. You could try adjusting the push rod at the master cylinder. That might give you enough extra stroke to reduce the clutch drag. As long as you have 1mm of free travel before the push rod contacts the piston you should be OK. Dave W
  22. Dave W

    oil cooler

    I think with the colder weather, you will find that it takes FOREVER to get every thing up to temp with the oil cooler. If you drive much in the colder weather, consider the Mocal temperature by-pass. Before I install the by pass, I made a block off plate, with a hinged section. It allowed me to open a 1/3 of the cooler area, by flipping up the section with a long screw driver thru the front of the grill. Dave W
  23. My current 14" Federals have a tread wear rating of 260, A,A. Dave W
  24. I'm using 595's on my Locost, and very pleased with them. The selection of 14" summer tires was pretty limited. The plus for me was that I can get them locally if there is ever a problem, since I do not carry a spare tire. I did have a set of Yokohama's A048, and the federals are much better. I'm running Federal 14" 185-55 @ 19psi. I would also check out Ar1 or NS2R, Nankang if you have a local distributor. They are only slightly higher then the Federals. Dave W
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