slngsht Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 while searching for something else at corner-carvers, I ran into this. It makes me wonder, how is your center tunnel covered? Mine just has 1" square tubing covered by thin aluminum. If that type of failure happens, it'll put a hurting on me. I'm thinking of adding some protection there. Opinions?
slngsht Posted July 12, 2007 Author Posted July 12, 2007 http://www.gt40s.com/images/jensenfailure/failure2.JPG http://www.gt40s.com/images/jensenfailure/failure4.JPG
solder_guy Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 More 1" tubing around the tunnel .. roll bars for the tunnel! Rob
WestTexasS2K Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 drive shaft hoop should be high on the priority list.
slngsht Posted July 12, 2007 Author Posted July 12, 2007 drive shaft hoop should be high on the priority list. do you have a pic?
locostv8 Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 Thats why I'm using a lakewood scatter shield. A trans blanket would probably be a fairly good idea as well.
slngsht Posted July 12, 2007 Author Posted July 12, 2007 Thats why I'm using a lakewood scatter shield. A trans blanket would probably be a fairly good idea as well. the scatter shield is for the flywheel, right? What about the driveshaft?
soareyes Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 Woody at MSI sells a set for the Birkin. They fit nicely under the Birkin's fiberglass tunnel shroud, which would give absolutely no protection by itself! Front hoop: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/378617191_DSCN1149.jpg Rear hoop: http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1562249088_DSCN1148.jpg
MHKflyer52 Posted July 13, 2007 Posted July 13, 2007 Hi Mazda, If you make something similar move and mount them make sure you move them in towards the center of the shaft maybe two inches as most shafts when they fail will move on the splines / yoke that has not failed and the way that the ones pictured are mounted there is the possibility that the drive shaft could move out of the capture hoop and still get you. Also make sure you use a true grade eight bolt and have the attachment area beefed up also. My tunnel is completely enclosed in steel for just the reason shown in the first set of photos. I know from experience that you can not get the car stopped fast enough when a shaft failure (usually a universal fails) occurs. I was fortunate to have the rear universal break in a race prepped Healey and by the time I was able to get the car stopped the driveshaft had beaten a hole through the rear axle bulkhead and trans tunnel and started into the side of the seat I was in and took out the lower right seat belt mount in the process. If you go to this link you can see how I dealt with it in a couple of the photos during the build. http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52 I know my way is extreme but it also stiffens up the car quite a bit.
locostv8 Posted July 13, 2007 Posted July 13, 2007 You would have to check but I believe a 1x1 tube structure welded into the tunnel structure is sufficent for most organizations, again check. I am more concerned with a flywheel or clutch explosion. I had one in a 55 chev that had a rather high redline, it bent and broke an Ansen cast steel (pick up with both hands) scattershield and broke the back of the block free from the block. Without the scattershield at best my brother who was driving the car would have at best lost both legs. Think about where the bellhousing is on most 7s.
solder_guy Posted July 13, 2007 Posted July 13, 2007 But for those of us who drive our sevens like grandpa .. are we less likely to to experience such a catastrophic failure? Rob
locostv8 Posted July 13, 2007 Posted July 13, 2007 Depends on whose grandpa. I'm 60 and building the 7 because the Cobra can't get up to 60 in the driveway.
slngsht Posted July 13, 2007 Author Posted July 13, 2007 But for those of us who drive our sevens like grandpa .. are we less likely to to experience such a catastrophic failure? Rob Less likely, yes, but it is still possible. I'm thinking that even with driveshaft hoops, it maybe a good idea to have a scatter blanket over the center tunnel.
slngsht Posted July 13, 2007 Author Posted July 13, 2007 Hi Mazda, If you make something similar move and mount them make sure you move them in towards the center of the shaft maybe two inches as most shafts when they fail will move on the splines / yoke that has not failed and the way that the ones pictured are mounted there is the possibility that the drive shaft could move out of the capture hoop and still get you. Also make sure you use a true grade eight bolt and have the attachment area beefed up also. My tunnel is completely enclosed in steel for just the reason shown in the first set of photos. I know from experience that you can not get the car stopped fast enough when a shaft failure (usually a universal fails) occurs. I was fortunate to have the rear universal break in a race prepped Healey and by the time I was able to get the car stopped the driveshaft had beaten a hole through the rear axle bulkhead and trans tunnel and started into the side of the seat I was in and took out the lower right seat belt mount in the process. If you go to this link you can see how I dealt with it in a couple of the photos during the build. http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52 I know my way is extreme but it also stiffens up the car quite a bit. Martin, is this what you're talking about? http://lh3.google.com/MHKflyer52/RnQCTdUh3fI/AAAAAAAAAF4/57s6x4rx6pU/DSCN0573.JPG?imgmax=800
R1 Seven Posted July 13, 2007 Posted July 13, 2007 Us Locost guys have the advantage(?) of having a boxed in steel transmission tunnel. I actually added a few "loops" on mine to keep the driveshaft under control if something were to fail. http://www.project-seven.goof.com/images/DSCN2150.JPG
slngsht Posted July 13, 2007 Author Posted July 13, 2007 Us Locost guys have the advantage(?) of having a boxed in steel transmission tunnel. Rotus has a very similar design. BTW, where do you route your fuel lines? Mine are in the center tunnel right now... let's see, electrical source, check. fuel source, check. source for shrapnel, check... I have an IED in there :lol:
R1 Seven Posted July 13, 2007 Posted July 13, 2007 The fuel lines go down the tunnel of course... Use good, strong fuel line...
MHKflyer52 Posted July 13, 2007 Posted July 13, 2007 Hi Mazda, No that was what I had started to due and then I in-closed the tunnel. If you look at the photos of the frame again I have added a discription to the photos that show what I did. The are the ones were the frame is sandblasted and waiting to be painted. Hope that helps.
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