Road Ready Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 My Seven with the Zetec engine has always been hard to start. It could start on the second or third try or sometimes takes many more tries. My son says maybe the fuel pump. Do any of you guys have any experience with this problem? Getting to the fuel pump is not simple. I'd hate to do that job if it's not really necessary. The returnless fuel system seems pretty dependent on a very responsive fuel pump. What else should I suspect? The car runs great once started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) I changed out my fuel pump a few years back. I had hard starting issues and my spark plug (#1 I think) farthest from the fuel inlet was showing signs of it running lean. I put in a Deatsch Werks DW200 fuel pump and the install wasn't too bad. I have a SV so the extra room may make its easier than a S3. Disconnect battery, put on jack stands, remove roll bar and trunk floor, disconnect fuel lines, wiring and vent hose. Remove fuel tank strap and remove tank up thru the trunk. I actually found a pinecone in my fuel tank after I opened it up. PS the DW200 is a larger diameter and the plastic housing will need to be opened up. It took me about 3 hrs to remove the pump. Link to my fuel pump thread. Edited September 16, 2015 by jlumba81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) Have you checked fuel pressure? Do you have a way to test the fuel pressure regulator? Edited September 16, 2015 by coffee break added 2nd ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James A Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Get a hold of a fuel system pressure test set, not expensive to buy, and test system pressure, the fuel regulator should be maintaining between 27 and 34 PSI with the vacuum hose connected to the regulator. With the vacuum hose disconnected you should see 36-42 PSI. Other things that cause a hard start: dirty MAF, vacuum leak. Have you ever changed your fuel filter? (although a problem here tends to result in full throttle stumble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slomove Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Depends also on your ECU setup. Especially aftermarket systems without idle air control valve may need a little gas pedal nursing after start and have a bunch of settings that affect starting based on sensor input or time like startup enrichment and advance, coolant enrichment and advance or the low speed maps in general. No matter what I do, my engine with Emerald ECU needs a few seconds after start to settle into a stable idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James A Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Oh yeah, I forgot the idle air control valve. I failed to plug it in one time and it was very had starting, so check that it is functioning if you are using the stock manifold and ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BusaNostra Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Do you have a standalone ECU? If you do, try to turn on the "crank inject all" and advance the timing 1-5 degrees during cranking. Maybe the map is not properly configured during cranking time. Edited September 18, 2015 by BusaNostra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Road Ready Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Citizzzen, I feel your pain, vicariously, of course. My fuel pressure tested good; 35 psi. I'm developing a theory about when in the start process is a good time to give it a little gas. We're in Indian Summer Part IV here. This weekend might be good for a last run this year. Running with the top off seems less attractive when the temperatures are in the 40s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Road Ready Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Used a borrowed noid light set to check the signals to the injectors. Weak or intermittent flashes. Nothing like the helpful YouTube video on the subject. Bingo! So now what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road SHO Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 The injectors are all hot with 12 volts (usually on a red wire) as soon as the key is turned to start or run. Only when the computer sends a ground on the other wire does an injector fire. So, make sure the ECU has its ground good and tight and connected to battery ground, not just the nearby skin or frame. You should also check to see what your battery voltage is when you crank it over AND with just the key turned to ON. A weak battery will give you all kinds of problems. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Road Ready Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 I used the Noid light set again, this time with the battery fully charged. I saw better results, still most flashes weak or intermittent. I did see only one BRIGHT flash, like the ones in the YouTube video that I watched. To start with, I'll be checking ALL connections. Then it's on to checking other stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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