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R400 Start Up Problem


TwedleJoe

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So, been having some odd things happened with wondering idle (unplug/re-plug ECU and it resolves) and most recently, dying on idle until the engine warms up quite a bit (idles around 1300 RPM normally).

 

Been sorting these mechanically and now having a more serious problem. Tried to fire up the car today and nothing. When I turn the key to "on", I can hear the relay(s) in the TRW multi-function relay unit click but the fuel pump does not come on and prime. Then, when I turn the ignition to "start" I can hear the additional relay(s) in the MFRU click but no starter turn over.

 

I have checked the fuses, battery voltage, and have power to all other dash, lights, gauges, etc.

 

2.0 Duratec in a 2012 R400 SV.

 

Any suggestions on where to start my troubleshooting?

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Thanks Maurice.

 

 

Checked the battery both voltage and amperage. Voltage stays well north of 12V even when key is turned to start. Low amperage draw when key is turned to run and nothing additional at start position. Look like something else is either preventing the start circuit to complete or it is otherwise open somewhere.

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I am going to run jumpers to the fuel pump to make sure it is mechanically sound. After that I will start jumping (fused jumper) around relays and connectors to get power to, first the fuel pump then, the starter in an attempt to isolate the section that may be causing the problem.

 

Question...........All I have are the wiring harness diagrams in my build book and they lack much for detail. Not being familiar with an ECU with a MFRU add-on, I wonder if the ECU "reads" the fact the relays/circuits for the fuel pump and/or starter are engaged or if the ECU "allows" the fuel pump and/or starter circuits to complete.

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Alternator? I had some similar symptoms with miata motor. Idle was hunting, the engine would shut off randomly. Turns out my alternator wasn't working at all or occasionally, the battery would read 12v regardless of engine running or not, when it should have read 14 when running. So after a while the battery would slowly drain, and once it got below a certain voltage the computer would start having issues because of lack of necessary voltage. This also caused my battery going bad as well.

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Have I mentioned how much it hate spade connectors.

 

Right where the engine loom and chassis wiring harness come together, there is a spade connector in a big, purple, main power wire. It is disguised inside a pretty, round plastic holder that even has water tight rubber plugs in the ends. But, it is nothing more than a spade connector that flops around inside the housing. It must have worked loose causing the intermittent problems and ultimately became terminal when it finally cam all the way apart.

 

Will post some pictures in the morning........

 

Thanks for all of the advice.

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Oh yeh, that "immobilizer" only ever immobilized me....... I no longer have it, however I do remember that removing it wasn't as straight forward as it should be. I don't have any of the old Caterham electrics, but there is some funky stuff in there. If you can't get it figured out, I can give you the number of the guy that got mine sorted out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is standard Caterham. It was probably brutalized during initial assembly - haven't seen particular failures with it.

 

Spade connectors will relax with time - this is a common problem with the connections on the keyed ignition switch as well.

-Bruce

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