papak Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Regular electricians use a grease called "No-corrode" when attaching copper wires to aluminum wires. You don't see this much anymore as most building codes impose restrictions on aluminum wiring in homes. It was quite the fad among low-end builders in the late '70's and early '80's given the price difference between copper and aluminum wire. I still have a tube and use it occasionally. It's a greenish grease similar to standard dielectric grease in consistency. When I was building my Birkin, I was advised of the potential for grounding issues. I use an 8 post grounding strip under the scuttle and a 4 post one at the rear of the car, both grounded directly to the battery for all connections. I have had no problems to date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1turbofocus Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Try running your AF gauge ground out to the Batt or block , eliminating it grounding to the chassis anywhere , might not help but very easy to test , If that doesnt help move the + side also to the Batt as well which would eliminate the AF gauge going through anything but the Batt , if it helps let me know and we can try a few things connecting it back to different locations Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairball29 Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Hi, i wired the gauge into a switched live under the dash, and back to my grounding post (the condition of which i will check thanks to previous comments) and it started fine. so i think the moving and shielding of the PATS wiring has helped. Now, i only started it once, but that's once more than i would have got prior to the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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