Stalker upgrade to LS engine and Tkx transmission

[MV8]

There is more than one spot to tap into for oil pressure and one spot can serve more than one function with a manifold/tee.

I guess you are talking about trimming the rack mount to clear the belt and not altering the rack location.

[searya]

Correct on the trimming the rack mount. Making it shorter should give me the clearance I need for the belt. 
 

 

[MV8]

I mention alternative oil pressure ports because the elbow bear the filter looks to have less than 3/4 inch of clearance. High torque engines on rubber mounts move a lot. Under load, the clearance will increase then when the throttle is closed the clearance will briefly be less than it is now (rocking on the mounts). Observe an engine during a chassis dyno run to see how much they can move under load. Revving out of gear is not loaded so it won't move as much.

 

I'd plug that port and use another due to the frame rail issue and no clearance to spin an elbow or 45 and no room for a banjo. Another option is to add a remote filter adapter with a separate nut like this one (allows indexing the outlets) to the existing filter adapter or replace it with an adapter with vertical fittings that will need full flow, two-piece elbows that allow indexing.

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing+Products/074/22-593/10002/-1?msclkid=7aef6b152a1c1034cd3e08cea8d21ea3&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BSC - Non-Brand Searches&utm_term=4579397212853868&utm_content=Other Categories

 

 

 

[searya]

Great idea on moving the oil pressure sensor. I ended up moving it to the end of the accusump. 

[searya]

Got a lot of stuff done over the last 2 weeks. 
 

1. cut down and rewelded the steering rack mount. The original was so high the alternator belt was going to hit it. 
 

2. welded on new radiator mount tabs

 

3. got the starter installed. Be careful when mounting your own.  The LS engine uses M 10 bolts.  When I first mounted it I grabbed the SAE equivalent which threads in, but then when torqued strips back out. Luckily, the SAE bolts are thinner so I was able to use a thread chaser to clean up the threads and just go back to them m10 bolts.

 

4. Setup the 3qt oil accumulator. I ended up mounting it right on the firewall.  In order to make it fit I needed to move the pressure gauge from the bottom of the tube to the side to do this. I purchased quarter inch NPT fittings as follows: 1 90° male to female, 2.5 inch male to male and 1 90° female to female.

 

I also moved from a manual open close valve to a solenoid driven one. The ones that moroso and Canton sell are over $225 so I found the one below instead which was $55. The threads for the valve are 1/2 inch NPT.

To get the solenoid mounted you will need a short 1/2 NPT male to male, and a 1/2 NPT male to AN 10 male. 

 

Optional but on the end, I added a female to male AN 10 fitting that also included a side port 1/4 NPT hole. In this hole I screwed in my quarter inch NPT oil pressure gauge.

 

From the end of the oil accumulator I ran a AN 10 hose all the way to the front of the engine block. On the front driver side of the engine block, I removed the oil galley plug and screwed in a M 16 x 1.5male oring to an10 male  fitting.  After installed I attached the the hose completing the system. 
 

Connecting the oil accumulator here will mean that oil goes through the filter before it reaches the engine bearings. Which is fine as long as your filter isnt clogged. I chose this option as I didn’t want to run a remote oil filter and the adapters that would allow me to run the spin on type added additional height to the oil pan which is already too close to the ground for my liking. 
 

 

[Anaximander]

Searya, Thanks for sharing your interesting Stalker build. I have been fortunate to be on my 6th Stalker which is an AXR partially completed kit with a L33 upgraded with wilder cam and upper end components. Since my sort of ls1 had been assembled but not run, I bought a couple of brass pieces from my local NAPA store and hooked the pieces up that would go into the side of the block near the oil pump and bought a cheap $19 pump sprayer at Harbor Freight that I used to prime the oil pump and upper parts of the engine including the rockers with the garden sprayer and the Mobil 1 oil I put into the engine. I was concerned that attempting to crank an engine with no oil in the oil pump would just continue to try and pump air rather than oil so priming the engine was my security blanket and a simple thing to do. I gave the priming tool to Scott Minehart who has plans for a couple of other engines that will need priming after rebuilds. 

[ok7]

Searya, I am considering a 3800 V6 swap to LS in a Stalker and working through the details. So, I’m finding this thread particularly interesting. 

Would you share your radiator dimensions, and fan make/model?

Also I can assist in drawing, and can cut your alternator bracket from mild steel, let me know if I can be of assistance.
 

[ok7]

I was not familiar with the TKX transmissions, quick research and they seem well suited for this application.

 

I saw your clutch choice earlier. What bellhousing did you use?

 

Which ratios?

[searya]

Hey I apologize for not responding to the last few posts.  I was so focused on getting the car ready for my first outing the weekend of 4/15 that I spent all of my time working on the car.

 

Anyway below are the answers to the last few posts and after I will also now that I have time be posting up a summary of all the steps and what challenges you will have All doable btw as I am not that great at this

[searya]

On 3/26/2023 at 1:09 PM, Anaximander said:

Searya, Thanks for sharing your interesting Stalker build. I have been fortunate to be on my 6th Stalker which is an AXR partially completed kit with a L33 upgraded with wilder cam and upper end components. Since my sort of ls1 had been assembled but not run, I bought a couple of brass pieces from my local NAPA store and hooked the pieces up that would go into the side of the block near the oil pump and bought a cheap $19 pump sprayer at Harbor Freight that I used to prime the oil pump and upper parts of the engine including the rockers with the garden sprayer and the Mobil 1 oil I put into the engine. I was concerned that attempting to crank an engine with no oil in the oil pump would just continue to try and pump air rather than oil so priming the engine was my security blanket and a simple thing to do. I gave the priming tool to Scott Minehart who has plans for a couple of other engines that will need priming after rebuilds. 

 That is a good idea.  Since I went with the Moroso Oil Accumulator I was able to perform a similar function by ensuring it was filled with oil and and then opening it up prior to the first start.  I bet we both used the same oil port on the block as well. 

[searya]

On 4/14/2023 at 7:27 AM, ok7 said:

Searya, I am considering a 3800 V6 swap to LS in a Stalker and working through the details. So, I’m finding this thread particularly interesting. 

Would you share your radiator dimensions, and fan make/model?

Also I can assist in drawing, and can cut your alternator bracket from mild steel, let me know if I can be of assistance.
 

The Radiator I purchased from Scott Minehart.  I believe is made by Mark Scott but not sure.  You definitely want one that is similar in size AND make sure you have it exactly in the middle of the car as a half inch one way or the other WILL make your hood hit one side.  I made that mistake and had to fix it just last week before my first track day.

 

If you are going to buy/make your own let me know and I will go measure the dimensions tomorrow but not that the corners are all angled and you Absolutely need that for it to fit.

 

As to Fan I bought this one off Amazon.  I saw one of the Amazon reviews was from a Minehart that was looking to cool his LS1 engine so I figured I had the right one

 

 

Maradyne M142k Champion Series Radiator Fan.  You will need to flip the fan blades over to make is a 'pusher fan' before install but that is easy and part of the install instructions that come with it.   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q3895M?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

 

[searya]

On 4/14/2023 at 10:13 AM, ok7 said:

I was not familiar with the TKX transmissions, quick research and they seem well suited for this application.

 

I saw your clutch choice earlier. What bellhousing did you use?

 

Which ratios?

I went with the .81 fifth gear and purchased the TCET17722.  Absolutely love having a 5th gear I can use now and it shifts great.

 

And as to bellhousing I used the:  https://www.amazon.com/Melrose-T-Top-Int-Licensed-Bellhousing/dp/B00LNEQCPE (although they might sell it on ebay for less).  

Bell housing GM 621 Offcially Licensed Repro from MelroseCorvette.com

Edited April 24, 2023 by searya

[searya]

So long time without posting an update but as I mentioned above I spent all the spare time I had finishing the car so I could make my first track day with it last weekend 4/15.

 

The car did great but my weekend was short lived so I didn't get to compare lip times etc.

 

I was at Putnam raceway in Indiana with 10/10ths motorsports.  I instruct with them and run the Advanced group and then my friend runs right after me using my car in the intermediate group.

 

Saturday was a beautiful day and I was up first.  I had a 30 minute session and spent the first 20 minutes or so of it doing 5/10 and watching the gauges even in the turns.  I was pleasantly surprised to see nothing looking off.  Oil pressure looked great (maybe even a little high?) but was between 45 in the turns to 95 at WOT down the straights.  After owning a c6z06 that would dip to under 10 in some turns I liked this MUCH better.  AFR looked good, water temp was great and the car just seemed to drive like you would hope for.  The last 10 minutes I started to push it more and all continued well.  After my session, I jumped out and my buddy jumped in for his 30 minute session.  He got to go much more all out than me as the tires were now sticking really well.  He loved the new power and the new transmission/clutch combo. 

 

After the car ran for that first hour we did a nut, bolt, coolant, oil, fuel, catch can, belt, leak, tensioner, melted wire, and anything else we could think of check and then did a 'happy dance' that nothing looked off.

 

In reality we were really expecting some problem but to our amazement every connection and system was good and we had a full and beautiful day ahead of us!

 

A few minutes after finishing the check I was back out with the advance group and was ready to have some fun pushing it!

 

I spent the first lap rewarming the tires and then started to push about 8/10th.  I made it to the 7th turn,  which you come into at 90ish and have to hard brake down to 45 for a 90 degree right hander.  When I began my turn in my 20year old driver side upper ball joint (which is in reality a tie rod end on a stalker) broke causing the front drive tire to cave inward.  The car was easy to catch and even mid turn easy to see the problem so I straightened it out as best I could and slid/drove into the grass.

 

After being towed off it took us until the end of the day to get a new upper ball joint/tie rod end.  My friend got to do half of his last session and then one more 30 minute session with the novice group (while I was instructing) so we could make further our shakedown. 

 

After the repair all seemed good again but next day it went from 80 and sunny to 50 and drizzly so our weekend was done.

 

So fingers crossed for good weather and no issues for our next session at NCM Memorial day weekend.

 

 

[searya]

Now that I have everything working below these following posts are detailed write up of what was needed for each area.

[searya]

Here is the final Parts List for my setup.

Oiling System:
Oil Pan Kevko LS1002 f-body race baffled 5 inch deep oil pan with spin on filter	1	https://kevkoracing.com/products/ls-f-body-5-deep?variant=12379420426302	475
Oil Pickup Tube Kevko LS-1002-1 for 5" deep pan	1	https://kevkoracing.com/products/ls-103	120
Oil Pan Gasket (GM Genuine Parts 12612350)	1	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014O1IJW6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details	33
Oil Filter (13/16-16 thread size) ACDelco GM Original Equipment PF46E Engine Oil Filter Parts master 61042 (3inches tall) alternatives that may be work but could be taller, Fram HM3506, purolator l14006, wix61042, champ PH44	1	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00496ILZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1	11
Accusump 3qt and Mounting Brackets	1	FaceBook Marketplace	200
Accusump AN10 Hoses and Connectors	1	old LS7 stuff	0	Runs from front of engine to accusump
Stock LS1 windage Tray	1	part of engine purchase	0
GM Genuine Parts 12677837 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor	1	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JKKG4P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details	38	attached near accusump in pics
m16x1.50 male oring to 10 AN male (for accusumpt feed into LS block oil galley)	1	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7BM1862?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details	11	installed at front of engine on drivers side
LS Oil Pump Pickup Tube Girdle (holds down the oil pickup tube using two screws vs 1)	1	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LX6FT1Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details	15	Kevko pickup tube comes with one but I used this one instead as I had already bought it.
1/2 NPT Male to 10AN Male adapter (goes it the on off valve of accusump)	1	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CILYVY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details	9
Meiling 10295 Oil Pump (High Pressure with Standard Volume)	1	https://www.amazon.com/Melling-10295-High-Pressure-Pump/dp/B001T8H0JG/ref=sr_1_5?crid=DU4GIAM6UL12&keywords=meilling+10295&qid=1650303457&s=automotive&sprefix=meilling+10295%2Cautomotive%2C98&sr=1-5	139	Part of the engine. I just bought a new one when doing my engine build.
Pin (.26 or .38inch pins) Spanner Wrench (.6inch to 4.7inch width) to hold ends of Accumulator from Spinning when installing Valves	1	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFFR9RR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1	12
-10AN Female To -10AN Male W/ 1/4 NPT Side Port Gauge Sensor BLACK Couple (FaSSter Performance Products)	1	https://www.ebay.com/itm/142769999090	15

Edited October 17 by searya

[searya]

Oiling system - Oil Pan: I went with a went sump system for two reasons, 1 Cost of a dry sump system and 2 not knowing how i would make the dry sump pump and tank fit.

 

Having had oiling issues on my C6Z06 I wanted to have as much protection as possible short of the dry sump.  For that I wanted to have a 'racing baffled' oil pan and an Accusump / Oil Accumulator system that would feed oil it need it in a turn.

 

Important Learnings:  Oil Pan Height/Depth is VERY important.  You want the shallowest pan you can get.  Scott Minehart recommends the stock LS3 pan with is 4 5/8inches deep.  I did not want that pan as it does not have racing baffles and only holds 5 quarts.  Plus looking at the design of the pan I am still confused on how oil doesn't get stuck in 'valleys' away from the pickup tube.  See pic below.  I found other online pics and could see any holes to allow oil out of those areas to the pickup tube area.

 

 

I originally bought and installed a beautiful Moroso Oil Pan that was 6 inches deep/tall.  I figured the extra inch and 3/8s would hurt but trust me it does.  After lightly scraping the pan a few times I removed that pan and went with the Kevko Pan listed in the parts section above.

 

The Kevko pan  is 5 inches deep and race baffled to keep the oil next to the pickup tube. This fit great and lined up with the bottom of the bellhousing.

 

 

 

I HIGHLY recommend installing the oil pan before the transmission.  The Two oil pan bolts in between the bellhousing and pan took me 90minutes to screw in.  Still not sure I could do it again.  To get those two I had to use a flexible screw driver with a socket bit on top.  Even fitting the bit and screwdriver in was extremely difficult.

 

Edited April 26, 2023 by searya

[searya]

Never finished my postings for the next guy that does the conversion but I will say I HIGHLY recommend it.  The LS power is fantastic.  Driveability is the same and it is so nice to be able to keep up with and pass most folks out there again!  Below are the rest of my parts list and other knowledge gain from doing the conversion and tracking the car for 2 years now!

[searya]

Transmission:
Tremex TKX TCET17722 GM close Ratio		https://www.speedwaymotors.com/TREMEC-TCET17722-TKX-Close-Ratio-5-Speed-GM-Manual-Transmission,452008.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwJWdBhCYARIsAJc4idCLaTZyTE2LFj- sJ41h306pYWq6Yn6NQH4dLeaKryFbgKJPCvaBhlYaAt_5EALw_wcB	2655
Sonax 31 spline 1350 size slipyoke		https://www.sonnax.com/parts/3347-slip-yoke	100	original driveshaft is a 1310 size so if you get this you will also need the moog uJoint listed below
MOOG 348 U-joint size 1310 (driveshaft) to 1350 (sonnax slip yoke)		https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8NIWQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details	25	again driveshaft side is 1310 so make sure you match this to your selected yoke
Transmission Mount - Duralast 2268		Autozone	8
Bell housing GM 621 Offcially Licensed Repro from MelroseCorvette.com	1	https://www.amazon.com/Melrose-T-Top-Int-Licensed-Bellhousing/dp/B00LNEQCPE	189

 

 

Not much to say here but the TKX transmission is great.  About 100lbs so 25 heavier than the old T5 but can handle up to 600hp and Torgue or more.  Remember to get the close ratio part listed above.  It is so nice to be able to use a 5th gear now!  The old t5 it was pointless and 5 was overdrive ratio.

[searya]

Clutch:
Powertrain Technololgy 7.25 3 disc clutch and button flywheel (3 discs x .105" thick / 1-5/32" x 26 tooth / Chevy LS V-8) ( CH316A1Z90) with Button Flywheel (FH105) 7.25 Discs -Ceramettalic (3pk .105 6R, 2E+1C Zsprintgs with Bolt Kit NK105166)	1	https://www.powertraintech.com/collections/clutches-flywheel/products/7-25-clutch-flywheel?variant=32944934092940	500
Powertrain Tech 168t Flexplate	1	Clutch, Button Flywheel, flexplate all bought on facebook marketplace	0
Throwout Bearning (Hydro-MAX drop-in floating HRB for small diameter racing clutches, 1.385" ID Standard Height - OAL 2.28 - 3.03" / With external bleeder kit, no supply line) RH7101 part number	1	https://www.powertraintech.com/collections/hydraulic-release-bearings/products/hydro-max-drop-in-floating-hrb-for-small-diameter-racing-clutches-1-385-id?variant=33664925663372	333
Clutch Alignment Tools (Ram Clutches 03-013 Steel Alignment Tool)	1	https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LX9WJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1	49
Allstar - ALL46100-24 -3 24" Clutch Line Kit (NE -3 AN STRAIGHT END AND ONE 3/16 INVERTED FLARE 90 END)	1	https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Q750Q2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details	27

 

Detailed install instructions are above with pics.  I love the 7.25 inch lightweight flywheel.  Car spins up so quickly and also helps with engine braking which allows me to carry more spread before and into a turn.  Triple disk is overkill as a single disk can hold 400hp/torque but I got crazy deal on the kit off of facebook so I guess if I every decide to add twin turbo's I am set!

[Stalker LS3]

I have read some of the posts here but did not see anything about dry sumps, so......

LS engines DO NOT like sustained left turns at over 1.0G. This is all over the SCCA forums from years ago. For on track conditions the solution is dry sump, ouch expensive.