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Posted

I’m looking for the tubing framework for the top of a Series 2, 1965 7.

even a detailed drawing or photos of the full top framework in place would help.

something I could borrow and guarantee return would be even better. I’ve got an original top coming that I can use as a pattern but no framework. Thanks, Bill

Posted

I will provide various pic from my books and build manuals.

Many from the Tony Weale Book.

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Posted

Wow, this is more than I expected. Thank you Scott, I should have all the info I need to build my frame. Do you know what the original tubing diameter was? I have a supply of 1/2” stainless tubing that I thought I’d use. Thanks again, Bill

Posted (edited)

I will go to my shed and measure those but someone else might get you that quicker.

Im not too sure about stainless bending as well as aluminum. 

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted

If you fill the tube with blasting media or sand, then plug the end, it won’t collapse when you use a tube bender. Works well on aviation projects.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

In general,  the top tube is formed to the same shape as the top rear chassis basket, terminating at the hinge brackets.  The inner,  or rear support tube is formed to the inner cotour of the main, attatched with cross drilled hinge screws at some point.  That point may not be determined in advance of hood fitting, as the construction of the hood may dictate that exact point to achieve proper tension.  Probably best done inside the car.  Please video the exercise for every to see!

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted (edited)

Bill, I have a set of hood sticks for you, aluminum and not drilled.

The sticks may need a little persuasion on angle but they follow the basket tube perfectly.   An issue may be how your hinge brackets are spaced, for sticks to mount inboard or outboard. These are bent for outboard.

 

The alu inner tube is still long, needs to be cut to final length to clear the damper tops. 

The black sticks are Caterham. Both are 16mm dia. 

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I would be honored if these found their way onto your car.

 

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted

I wanted to see how close I could get with my stainless tubing. I filled the tubes with fine blasting media and followed the rear chassis tube to get the right length and shape. I have not put the slight bends in the front tube to lay them flat yet. You can see that in the photos. Thanks for the tubing offer, I think the stainless will work ok..91130074-8BDD-4C1E-8C7A-D5516BE0E4F4.thumb.jpeg.04de929aed7d7cd6334ab4790ebf516d.jpeg89993676-E70B-40EB-A4FC-C4DB0771E08D.thumb.jpeg.307bdacfd91e13cc8e75812187e13479.jpeg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/9/2023 at 11:00 PM, IamScotticus said:

 

 

 

I would be honored if these found their way onto your car.


 

 

I might be interested in your black ones if you are selling. My oem frame seems way too large and does now fit with the S3 top I have.

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Posted (edited)

Sorry,  but the black sticks stay with my car.

 

How do your sticks fit on the basket top tube?  They should match the curvature exactly.  7 sticks always have for 66 years.  If they do, and your hood doesn't fit, your hood is the problem. It may have shrunk some.  

 

Can you set it up as much as possible and show us the problem areas?

 

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted

Thanks to Scott I was able to fabricate my top sticks with the stainless tubing I had on hand. Thanks to eBay I found doors and a top that came off a series 2 Just like mine. They actually cleaned up pretty good! Thanks everybody!    BillA44D6D9A-1773-4088-8BF0-875E8DB85C88.thumb.jpeg.fdf91b9a5fb41861bb06191573a68077.jpegE530B771-21E8-4392-9BA0-8697960CA1D9.thumb.jpeg.931f778057c3daf36478f0d4c06e8371.jpegB041FD79-9042-4C73-BE01-84FAB30136F1.thumb.jpeg.423e72720a3dc11dad9dc4e6e466e1bc.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted

Might break the mirror and/or the camera.

 

Scott, thanks, the wheels were bought from a site that claims to specialize in British cars. Can’t check who now, I’m recovering from neck surgery, just a bone spur trim. Mirror bracket barely works with top on, great with top off! I copied Tony Ingram’s design.35F1E15D-DE46-4896-AF10-A47C272003A2.thumb.jpeg.c7d61c503b6e14b95f22e14ca6541aae.jpegD435D6DD-65DB-4A2E-9B11-7A81440B1DFF.thumb.jpeg.f6126d78744322c58013b689cb30d777.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted

Yes, I had to buy adaptors with the wheels, and along with narrowing a Triumph 7 rear end I had the Triumph 10 rear drums/ studs modified to fit that same Triumph 7 rear so the same adaptors could be used on all 4 corners. I think the bolt pattern   for the wire wheels is the same as the Spitfire. My wife specified the wire wheels, saying that they looked “proper” for a British road Car. I still have the original wheels and chrome caps for unknown future use.

Posted (edited)

If you got the Triumph TR 7 V6 diff you might have a LSD in there.  If you got the 4 spd you can put in the Quaife QDF8K 

Edited by IamScotticus
Posted

Don’t know if it was a V6, I do know the axle guru said to get the axle off a 4 speed car to modify so that’s what I got. Did V6’s come with a 4 speed and that axle?

anyway I could put the Quaife in if I found the need. The wife calls this our ice cream car, so the need for a LSD is marginal.

Posted
17 minutes ago, Stevensonjr said:

The wife calls this our ice cream car, so the need for a LSD is marginal.

Yeah, with the silver car next to it and the wires, I'd say you're both right.  And you are very fortunate on the wife front.  

Posted

The TR7 had a 2 liter four cylinder (TR8 was 3.5 Liter V8), so is the V6 an actual differential model not used in conjunction with a V6 engine?

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