IamScotticus

Howdies from Houston. It's horrible here. Too hot. Too many trucks. Dont drive a 7 here. Just keep one in the garage as an eternal project and dream of cool windy perfect roads somewhere else.

Nice paint job

Those are nice. Have a manufacturer?

Not mine. I thought I was the first. S4s are growing on me...I'll go stand in the corner now

Sweet green S4 on BAT https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-lotus-super-seven/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Model_Update

Its got $10k of fresh Ivey engine in there....

Back plate photo please... All adjustments will be there if any. Normally an adjuster will be on the place of one of those cylinders. But fronts have different requirements than rears.

My notes on LA alternatives contributed by posters over the years: 1985 Corolla GTS "AE86"(4.25) Rear Wheel Drive Corolla GTI, which is known as the "AE86" by all of the Toyota buffs. RX-7 GSL (4.25) If you looking to keep originality I understand, but if you want a good light strong axle look to the early RX-7. If you get the GSL-SE model they come with disk brakes and a LSD. * a caution on LSD, just because there is a plate LSD is not a reason to pursue it. The ramp angles are tuned for the original application which is a much heavier car. I was advised by Arnie Webb that 7s like 0° exit ramp because we come off the the throttle si quickly. In most cases, an open diff is adequate. I could be wrong. MV8: You might consider an axle conversion to an equivalent that came with a 4.30 ratio (maximium), like the Toyota 10 bolt 6.7" ring gear axle used in dwarf cars, just not severely shortened on the right side. For a used axle, look at 82 and older corona, 84-87 corolla GTS, 74-79 SR5, 71-85 celica ST and GT. I expect there are parts available for these for racing. They came with either two or four spider gears and an open or limited slip. A Ford 8 inch is a common axle here that is built like the famous ford 9 inch only smaller and lighter. I think it was used in the H&S Seven. Birkin factory in South Africa that the rear axle was a newly manufactured unit as used in a Toyota Hilux minivan manufactured and sold in South Africa. The only ratios I have ever known of for those rear ends were the two that came in solid axle Birkins. 4.11:1 until early/mid 2000, then 3.89:1. My kit landed in the US in September of 2000, and it has a 3.89 I have heard some mentions of Datsun B series axles, but good luck finding those. I may update this post later wirh more info.

We don't actually know what brakes you have?? Front or rear. Girling Type 14LF up front? Uprated? Sierra rear? I couldn't lock my T14s either. I attributed to possibly being stock Triumph Spit pads, which would be horrible.

Hey, guess what I did when I put a U-lock through the rear wheel of my motorcycle???

I noticed the absence of a hand brake. Is something else taking it's place? I ask for the benefit of those who can't get a hand brake. Like me...

Side saddle bags?

Yes, do make a build thread in that forum. https://usa7s.net/ips/forum/41-build-threads/

Make sure of your lug PCD. Most DeDion are Ford 4.25 but some early (80s) DeDion were still Triumph 3.75. Chances of you being 3.75 are very slim. But with all thigs Cat and Lotus, and POs mixing parts, I never say never.

Will, not that originality makes any difference in this case, but for future reference, is that serif style of stamp font typical of Universal?

You are correct, but I'm not implying poor prep work. Stone chips and cracks can create water ingress. PC has its place. Its a cost saving industrial solution for large production items where hand painting is cost prohibitive. But on a small chassis like this, one can affordably do a high quality coating by hand with rust retardant materials. Regardless, @randomDMZ Look at the 7s that pass through Bring A Trailer to see what they sell for. You will spend that same money refurbishing that car. Or you can buy one ready to go. I say pass on it. If you really want a 7, there are many good ones that go on the block all year. Just watch BAT and the 4 sale thread here. Just trying to save you from eternal project doom.

Hate powdercoat. It's a cheap way to do it that doesn't allow for blending in later touch-ups. It's a shell that will trap moisture and rust a hole before you see the bubble. POR15, Eastwood frame paint, there are better options. I really like those slot mag wheels. Get this book: https://www.allbookstores.com/Lotus-Seven-Preparation-Restoration-Maintenance/9781855321533 See this FB group. The Lotus archivists hang out there. Best place to get frame answers https://facebook.com/groups/641267452302116/

@gde31ff seriously, in my non appreciated opinion, of which is very biased towards the "classic" Caterham era, I think you have a great car there. It's one of those 7s that, once someone had learned enough about the variations and narrowed down a 7 to the best of the bunch, that's what you got; an imperial DeDion 5 speed crossflow. Not the most wickedly powerful, but then guys are crashing from the car getting away from them. Why people think they need race cars, and Cat is more than happy to sell them, idk. What you have there is a good balance of fast roadster that will go to the ragged edge and stick to the road. And the 13s you want will help that. Fun manageable and serviceable roadster that you can grab the rear wheel from the seat in. Fun fun fun. And you got clams! Well bought. Have ear plugs/muffs for you and passenger. Long hair needs tied back. Always be ready to adjust the clutch cable with two (1/2"?) Spanners. It does stretch out. There's an excellent book to have by Tony Weale: https://www.allbookstores.com/Lotus-Seven-Preparation-Restoration-Maintenance/9781855321533 Another great reason to have the 7 you got, there is a great book like this written for it.

No, it's not. I'm just being an azzz.

Or to prevent jiggle and sporadic opening? These DCOEs shake a lot. If all else is working, stiffer springs seems like an acceptable compromise so as not to go the deletion route.

These are perfect. Do they have any support shank? Or are they floppy as bath slippers? From Footlocker: Details Product #: 39884601 Supplier-sku #: 39884601 An icon of racing culture—the PUMA Speedcat OG is back to bring the excitement of racetrack right to your everyday rotation. Synonymous with speed, precision, and unparalleled performance for over twenty-five years, these silhouettes started as Formula 1 shoes but emerged as street-style icons in no time. Featuring soft suede and premium leather, these sneakers are reissued in their original colorways to keep you looking your best, no matter how fast-paced your day gets. The new PUMA Cat logo on the front keeps the classy style fresh, while the IMEVA material ensures a lightweight and comfortable feel. Bring a dynamic edge to your outfits with the PUMA Speedcat OG. PUMA Speedcat OG features: 99.06% leather/0.94% textile upper offers a sleek and durable fit. 100% textile lining provides a soft and smooth interior. 100% textile sockliner ensures step-in comfort. Suede PUMA Formstrip adds a pop of style. PUMA Cat embroidered logo on the toe brings brand rep. 100% rubber midsole allows a well-cushioned ride. 100% rubber outsole delivers superior traction and durability.

At the worst possible moment

Engine pics! Soften that suspension. Adjust the rear sway bar, if available, to softest setting and get the 1/2" front sway bar. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/anti-roll-bars/6793-narrow-track-front-anti-roll-bar-kit.html or https://caterhamparts.co.uk/anti-roll-bars/6792-front-anti-roll-bar-kit.html Loosen and re-tighten all suspension points on the ground. Replace the rear A frame bushes. Cable clutch, inspect the top eyelet cable for fraying, twisting & relieve any tension. Ensure lower cable end is secured to clutch fork so it won't dislodge. Order a clutch cable (Escort Mk 1 or 2) to keep in the car as a spare with tools to replace and adjust tension. Rust..Deal with it now. get a brush-on rust conditioning black paint. Prep rusty front and rear tubes and under steering rack bridge with steel wool to remove flaking powder coat and dab on the paint. Perfect, no. But rust isn't perfect either, it's damage that gets worse if left alone. It must be addressed now. Eastwood Rust Encapsulator is one option. Por 15 is another. If all you can do now is dab on a can of Rustoleum from Walmart, do that. Nobody's looking under there anyways Install a battery cut-off switch to prevent battery drain and electrolysis. Also, I remember much grumbling about those wheel center caps. Don't loose the key! You won't find another. And repaint the tyre carrier black...it's part of the chassis, which is black. My apologies..

Your best bet is: Wava Utt Motorsport Composites 1220 Falls Road or 2133 County Road W Grafton, WI 53024 262-375-1930 info@motorsportcomposites.com https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057251658811

This seems a tad excessive. Perhaps a PO was trying to solve a problem?