IamScotticus

For those who will still pick up a book We are blessed with another Caterham book https://www.crowood.com/book/caterham-seven/

Time to add more here. This is for new guys who may not know the difference between the two types of coolant tanks. This thread uses overflow, recovery, and pressure tank terms frequently without really explaining what is what. Recovery or Overflow tank: an open air vessel that holds coolant that is purged from under a radiator cap when the engine is hot and during pressure surges like hard accelerations. The cap and hose are usually located at the top of a radiator or on the head as part of a thermostat housing or swirl pot. The vessel holds the coolant until it gets pulled back in when the engine cools. There should be enough extra coolant kept in a recovery tank to ensure the hose doesn't pull in air. Expansion tank: a vessel that holds extra coolant in circulation under pressure. The hot coolant flows into it and pulls back when the engine cools. There is not a radiator cap, the radiator is typically sealed. The cap on the expansion tank regulates the pressure, but unlike the radiator cap, coolant does not flow through it, this cap stays above an air gap. Typically, a "closed" system expansion tank should be half full of coolant at all times, expanding with the temperature but not needing an overflow tank. Most road vehicles since the 90's will have this type of system with an input hose at the top of the vessel coming from the thermostat housing hot side, an output hose at the bottom going to the lower radiator hose or the cool side and an overflow hose at the filler neck that drains to the ground, if needed. For sporting applications, the overflow should be captured in a recovery tank to prevent spills and is usually a safety regulations requirement. Location, location, location. For open radiator cap systems, the height doesn't matter as air bubbles are purged out and vacuum pulls coolant back in. For closed expansion tank systems, the tank should be located where the tank cap can be the highest point for efficient air bubble egress. Above the highest coolant level in the engine or radiator. Regardless of which system you use, and why, realize that a failure of the cooling system can destroy your engine. Pressure caps are wear items and should not be expected to last forever. In a 7 where the coolant recovery tank is often located in front under the nose, it's not very visible. And even if you do see coolant in it, are you sure the cap is working? Choose the system that you can watch. I prefer a closed system because the level in the tank is the level in your whole system at all times and temperatures. If there is a loss happening, it will be more visible from an expansion tank mounted on the scuttle than a recovery tank under the nose. Can I use my current thermostat housing from Caterham for a closed sys? Yes, if you can fit a cap that is not an overflow pressure cap. The outlet barb should go to the top inlet barb on the expansion tank (not the overflow barb). On those pressure caps, only the lower seal holds pressure. The top seal has no guarantee of it. It's better to use a housing without a cap so you don't have a failure point. Also be aware of those housings elbows that have the vertical nipple , those nipples are glued in and have been known to come off. Some Formula Ford tracks don't allow them. The nipple can be replaced with a threadded brass barb.

Wanting to buy or borrow spitfire rear hubs & associated brake parts for experimental fitting.

Too pretty to drive! Have coil covers?

First attempt is Triumph because the Ital is a wider Standard 10, lots of parts compatibility and the best chance of the part interchange. If a Spit back plate and hub dont go straigt on without backspace issues, it's not worth making major alterations. OEM still works. I just think Spit drums will be lighter, better balanced and more proportional to the 7. As a bonus, there are Spit finned alloy drums available.

Bumping this, and a new question. I am asking if Marina/Ital 8" rear drums can be changed over to Spitfire 7" drums? Doing this offers a few benefits: Spitfire parts are easier to source. Front ans rear brakes are copesetic with a common vehicle. The brakes are smaller and lighter for a lighter car.

@Colorado7er Josh, have anything?

Tim, you have to go to the Triumph guys for the cars that used the 7" (Stanpart) Standard 10 ,TR 10 axle and shop for those parts. There are many here who have S2s who could give a quick answer. I hope they do. Tony Weale writes, "The series 2 use the cheaper but similarly sized axle from the standard triumph, eight, ten and companion range of cars , which was almost out of production by 1960. Axle supplies, though , lasted for another eight years." If that is what you have. Rear brakes may have been changed out to suit the 7 and another owner may have so checking that is something. I reccomend pulling a drum and measuring the inner diameter and brake shoe width. Get any part numbers off the shoes, drum back plate, drum, and axle. An interesting factoid, a Standard 10 axle from the 60s still has a lot of part interchangeability with the Ital/Marina axles of the 80s. I will look for the info for the Triumph Standard 10 brakes. Another thing, what you find will not likely have the correct shoe compound. Shaving down the middle of the shoes may help prevent lockup. Here is a relining specialist https://porterfield-brakes.com/manufacturer/brake-shoes/ From Tony Weale Per Weale, rear brake shoe PN for 60-68 S2 Standard Axle is "MGR21", which may be an early Caterham catalog PN. Per the Caterham Lotus 7 S2,3&4 Service Manual reprint, Section J 10, Rear shoe PN for "M.S.1"= "120131", which may be for S1 Metropolitan axle. Then M.S.3 =8260. Unfortunately in the illustrated key to axle components list, he brake shoe PN is not listed, sec H 5. But it would be a Lotus PN. The Dave Bean catalog gives this You may want to call Ken @(209) 754-5802 Must join the club to buy. Excellent prices https://www.standardmotor.club/standard-8-10-etc/braking-system-1/brake-shoes-adjusters-brake-springs-and-fitting-kits So far, it appears that the Spitfire 7" rears are identical to the Standard 10, but the back plate may not be. I don't know if there is any offset issues with springs, etc. I will update this post with new info.

Need the brake handle and cable please

Need S2&3 wing brackets

Considered, but I hope for smaller so as not to obstruct flow to radiator

Could you guys recommend a data logging air speed / flow sensor that is small and self contained that can be placed directly in front of a 7 coolant radiator to measure airflow rates at speed? Data logging because I will probably send it to a volunteer to record the data. So why not just hold a meter out the window of my own car? I suspect the airflow inside a 7 nose is not as linear as direct outside air. I wish to establish a baseline airflow to simulate in my garage for tuning. I also suspect nose cone airflow to be surprisingly deficient requiring additional baffling for effective cooling. As Lotus already accounted for on the S2s with the standard radiator air dam. I don't know why Cat didn't continue the practice. Anyway, I don't have time to shop for this myself. Help!

a wrap can do it

One question I have is, how do we know the valves get the required amount of splash? Is oil splash distributed among the valved equally? I have read the shoulders of bronze valve guides will prevent oil flow to the stem. If this is true, I would not use seals with valve guides. One thing I have read is the use of roller rockers will abate valve stem/ guide wear. Without roller rockers, I would err on the side of allowing more oil to the stems. Perhaps guides without seals is the best combination?

are there enough petrol station for a 7?

Without having read most of the previous, my solution to the filling issues is to forgo the 90˚ elbow and instal a vertical pipe, much like the S1/2 type. This will allow me to hold the fuel nozzle above preventing shut-off and give me visual confirmation of the fuel level and prevent wetting myself with everyone watching. Easily done in a non emission vehicle.

One of the things I like to say about 7s is, they are not cars. They have car parts, yes, but if you treat it like a car, you will tear it up in no time.

More info! What engine is this for?

Let's hear the horror stories! Sometimes we get lucky and find a shop and a mechanic who will give your 7 the right treatment. Often times not. They simply don't have the investment in your car that you do. And perhaps to them, your idea of a golden toy is one they have no respect for no matter how they fawn and gush over it when you bring it in. That should be a clue there. Well intended or not, I have heard of many bad experiences of 7s being taken to the wrong man with $hitty results. Oh, how do I screw thee? Let me count the ways! Thread rules: No names! Regardless of how much someone deserves to be called out, please don't mention specific people, business or any detail that can infer to them. We don't want to bring the forum any slander or liable suits.

Its a 1,200 pound car. It's going to jump. Keep your Tyre pressure below 20 psi.

It's like they say, no two 7s are alike.

It may only be live axle thing, But I was surprised at how a 7 will skip around the road laterally.

These are umbrella seals and are intended to ride the stem up and down so the necessary amount of oil lubricates the stem. This is a good time to check lateral valve stem movement. If it wiggles, you may need valve guides. More than helpful...

I would have lost myfckingshit.

I was going to suggest a large gage soldering iron on the stud and clamped on so the heat is applied to that core. Heat until you see smoke.