IamScotticus

32/36 carb plate?

Points for verbiage

Got these. Thanks, Wayne Delete this.

Lovely Crossflow

back when I was riding my Harley, in 2013-14, I found I often had to be aware of residual fuel in the nozzle that would spill on my fuel tank. That lovely paint! So I developed the habit of placing a gas towel over the area. Back then, it was a problem. Maybe not so much now? If fuel recovery is anything like the freon recovery regulations... And, for those who spill gas on paint...JUST LET IT DRY, DON'T WIPE IT!

pertol evaporates quickly

Yes, this exactly. A more complicated issue for FI, but not impossible to overcome. I have already obtained the correct fuel rated hose and cut to length. But I think it's very heavy and the thickness gives me some doubt to the clamping ability. I am looking for alloy or steel pipe than can be necked down or beaded to fit inside the tank neck, then clamped on the outside. The benefit of all this is to be able to see, or hear or dipstick the fuel level as you fill. As for the hole left behind, put a dummy filer cap there.

I've mentioned my intentions elsewhere, but I suppose the question can be put here... Can the filler be adapted to a vertical neck just under the boot cover? I suppose all the return and vent lines can be incorporated into a vertical solution?

This is fun as you're acknowledging the crowd of admirers oogling you

This happens all over , especially on the wiring connections. Unavoidable. Only thing to do replace the fluids and rubber hoses and inspect the parts regularly, like every three years. Not every 20 years. Its those 20 years guys that have the big problems. The best solution foe galvanic issues is to use a battery disconnect. Also ensure grounds are cleaned annually. Ensure the engine head is grounded. Many things corrode because there is insufficient grounding elsewhere.

Sale pending

Whoa! Ventilated diskies! I likey! Hey, wheres the pedal box and master cylinders? Cat has been up to something...what kind of pedal adjustment do we have?

I would do brass barb fittings. The rule for 7s is everything shakes loose. Or something vibrates and cuts into something. The part may say " for Automotive use". This means it's resistance to heat, fluids and maybe oils, are within typical automotive variables. But 7s are outside of those parameters. I would avoid plastic if possible. Double clamp but don't double the clamping force. Ensure the hoses are tolerant of the coolant used. Test the pressure cap before relying on it. Assume nothing.

How consistent has Cat been with the radiator mount spacing over the range of models and years, such as these are spaced? Or are they exclusively a crossflow/Ford engine fittting?

Been thinking about sky diving helmets. Or other minimalist wind ans rock protection. Must be able to drive if the wind screen gets blown out.

Ser Craig Eubanks at Speedstar in Pasadena. He's race prep shop that has plenty of 7s use his services.

Bump...

I need them please

For those who will still pick up a book We are blessed with another Caterham book https://www.crowood.com/book/caterham-seven/

Time to add more here. This is for new guys who may not know the difference between the two types of coolant tanks. This thread uses overflow, recovery, and pressure tank terms frequently without really explaining what is what. Recovery or Overflow tank: an open air vessel that holds coolant that is purged from under a radiator cap when the engine is hot and during pressure surges like hard accelerations. The cap and hose are usually located at the top of a radiator or on the head as part of a thermostat housing or swirl pot. The vessel holds the coolant until it gets pulled back in when the engine cools. There should be enough extra coolant kept in a recovery tank to ensure the hose doesn't pull in air. Expansion tank: a vessel that holds extra coolant in circulation under pressure. The hot coolant flows into it and pulls back when the engine cools. There is not a radiator cap, the radiator is typically sealed. The cap on the expansion tank regulates the pressure, but unlike the radiator cap, coolant does not flow through it, this cap stays above an air gap. Typically, a "closed" system expansion tank should be half full of coolant at all times, expanding with the temperature but not needing an overflow tank. Most road vehicles since the 90's will have this type of system with an input hose at the top of the vessel coming from the thermostat housing hot side, an output hose at the bottom going to the lower radiator hose or the cool side and an overflow hose at the filler neck that drains to the ground, if needed. For sporting applications, the overflow should be captured in a recovery tank to prevent spills and is usually a safety regulations requirement. Location, location, location. For open radiator cap systems, the height doesn't matter as air bubbles are purged out and vacuum pulls coolant back in. For closed expansion tank systems, the tank should be located where the tank cap can be the highest point for efficient air bubble egress. Above the highest coolant level in the engine or radiator. Regardless of which system you use, and why, realize that a failure of the cooling system can destroy your engine. Pressure caps are wear items and should not be expected to last forever. In a 7 where the coolant recovery tank is often located in front under the nose, it's not very visible. And even if you do see coolant in it, are you sure the cap is working? Choose the system that you can watch. I prefer a closed system because the level in the tank is the level in your whole system at all times and temperatures. If there is a loss happening, it will be more visible from an expansion tank mounted on the scuttle than a recovery tank under the nose. Can I use my current thermostat housing from Caterham for a closed sys? Yes, if you can fit a cap that is not an overflow pressure cap. The outlet barb should go to the top inlet barb on the expansion tank (not the overflow barb). On those pressure caps, only the lower seal holds pressure. The top seal has no guarantee of it. It's better to use a housing without a cap so you don't have a failure point. Also be aware of those housings elbows that have the vertical nipple , those nipples are glued in and have been known to come off. Some Formula Ford tracks don't allow them. The nipple can be replaced with a threadded brass barb.

Wanting to buy or borrow spitfire rear hubs & associated brake parts for experimental fitting.

Too pretty to drive! Have coil covers?

First attempt is Triumph because the Ital is a wider Standard 10, lots of parts compatibility and the best chance of the part interchange. If a Spit back plate and hub dont go straigt on without backspace issues, it's not worth making major alterations. OEM still works. I just think Spit drums will be lighter, better balanced and more proportional to the 7. As a bonus, there are Spit finned alloy drums available.

Bumping this, and a new question. I am asking if Marina/Ital 8" rear drums can be changed over to Spitfire 7" drums? Doing this offers a few benefits: Spitfire parts are easier to source. Front ans rear brakes are copesetic with a common vehicle. The brakes are smaller and lighter for a lighter car.

@Colorado7er Josh, have anything?