TEM Posted November 20, 2023 Author Share Posted November 20, 2023 I read through the instructions for installing the headers and thought they were crazy, I gave up reading half way through. It can't be that complicated I said to my self. The diagram shows only two special Allan head bolts but all four of my uppers look like these special bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 (edited) Count yourself lucky! Mine didn't have the special ones (likely someone's previous work) so it was extra fiddly. A long round head hex key with a 45° bend saved my sanity, but is still tough sledding. The sequence is important. Edited November 21, 2023 by SENC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher smith Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 Happy to help with some ideas just contact me when you're ready. I have been through it several times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 (edited) Looks like an extra long, ball-end /"wobble" allen key would help. Also installing the outer, lower header bolts finger tight, then a strap from across the valve cover could help support the intake weight while trying to get the center bolts started. Edited November 21, 2023 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher smith Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 MV8's comment about the wobble allen is spot on at least for initial tightening. I was worried it might round off in final tightening however, and that is when I cut off part of the short end of a conventional allen to allow final tightening. Also, someone before me installed a 2 ended stud at one point in the head which allows for holding the gasket in place easier. It then takes a 12 point flange nut ( McMaster-Carr sourced) to clamp the full assembly down. I managed to refit the whole intake + 2x40 DCOE assembly at once but that may be trickier than first fitting the headers, then intakes and then adding the carbs and finally linkage. I never had a manual so it took a lot of guesswork to figure it out. Now with access to a manual for series 2 I will look and see the "professional" way to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 Now that I have the original 4.75" crank pulley installed and timing set so that at 0deg on the timing light, I get the pulley mark aligned with the center of the two timing forks on the case. I understand this to be 10deg BTDC. But when I start the engine with this setting, its hard to crank. Is this too much initial advance? Neither timing setting improves the engines behavior when driving. It still back fires a lot on throttle lift. Very neighborhood unfriendly. Could this be the carburetors being too rich? The car was originally used for racing so it's possible there is a hot cam in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Be sure to check the dwell, then readjust timing as per the manual. I found that much more accurate than setting gaps via feeler gauges. I really struggled with carb tuning until I got some help from Keith Frank on his iogroup page. Perhaps due to wear, my butterflies were closing a bit too far and covering the first progression hole (this was resolved by swapping butterflies for a set with a different angle edge bevel). Not at all suggesting you'll need to do this, just that Keith is extremely helpful diagnosing problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 The manual calls out the point gap but I didn't see dwell mentioned. Did I miss it or is it just the standard dwell for a Lucus 25D which I think is 57-63 deg. As far as carb tuning, I know the basics but not how to diagnose faults. What is Keith's iogroup page? I'm probably going to need him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 (edited) Sorry, I didn't mean to imply dwell was in there - I meant to point to the timing advance. Yes, I think you are correct on dwell. https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft/topics and, specifically, the thread of back and forth on mine a couple years ago... https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft/topic/tuning_advice_65_seven/74580852?dir=asc Edited June 3 by SENC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 The new pulley has part number 681F 6312 cast onto the back face which others indicate is the original part number. The Manual has the statement Does this mean that I need to align the notch on the pulley to 1/8" before the pointer on the case? If so, this would make sense and would reduce the initial timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 That statement is from the 109E portion of the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 That is the way I read it. For mine, the 116e/120e variant it calls for a 1/8" advance, so I settled on the outside edge of the right side of the markings on the case (rather than between them). That said, a contemporary HLR newsletter on the cosworth engines I indicates a 1/8" retard - and, of course, cams could have been changed - so I'd use the manual as a general guide to get started and running then tweak from there as gap/dwell and carbs are adjusted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 You bring up a good point. I have a 109E block but what I believe is a 116E head (based on the casting number). And who knows what cam is in there. But, where I have it now (center of the marking) is too much advance so either I don't have a 116E head or the cam is different than original. I'm not sure why they would put a 166E head on a 109E block. My understanding is that all the goodness of the 116E is in the block (5 bearings, longer stroke, etc.). Maybe they had head damage and just put on what they could find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 The below may help id your head... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 My head. i don't know what the AB stands for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Udo Guido Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 Well Golly G, That Ole Gal looks like Turp’s 7 Looks like She found A Great Home! Not to many like ir? If it Indeed came from the Turpening Estate. Terrence G Turpening USATerry@icloud.com 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 That is indeed the same car and in remarkably the same condition. I purchased it from Kelly and Dave, two of the nicest people on the planet. When you say there are not too many like it, do you have specifics? I would love to learn more of the history. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Udo Guido Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 58 minutes ago, TEM said: That is indeed the same car and in remarkably the same condition. I purchased it from Kelly and Dave, two of the nicest people on the planet. When you say there are not too many like it, do you have specifics? I would love to learn more of the history. Well? Not Really many Specifics, I think it may have been to WaterFord Hills Track back in the Day? I guess what I ment by not to many was refering to the amount of 7’s actually built? I guess when I run across more Pic’s I’ll be happy to forward them to ya. Hopefully, in a couple weeks from now, there may be more 7’s at Mid Ohio and later on the puttin bay vintage races. Restore on Dude!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 Thanks, I appreciate the motivation and any additional pictures you find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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