SENC

Here's an alternative solution a prior owner of my car implemented.

I checked and do have a 2nd copy of the Dave Bean catalog. Unfortunately, there isn't anything useful for your Seven specific to the rear suspension, but you may find other sections (like front suspension and gearbox) useful. If you'd like it, pm me your name, address, and number and I'll get a cost for shipping it to you. There is another Bean catalog worth keeping an eye open for: One of these days I'll get around to having it scanned to add as a resource.

Paper, hasn't been updated for years, and I don't know that they copy and send them out anymore, but you do see them pop up on ebay and in other places from time-to-time. I may have a second copy, will check when I'm in my shop tomorrow and if I do will send it to you. We should really get it scanned and put in resources, it is quite useful. As you identify where parts came from, you can look for and find (generally cheaply) old 3rd party shop manuals for those vehicles that come in handy. The Ford manual pictured below is an example, though for cars previous to the Escort line. I went ahead and took pictures of the rear axle pages, as I don't think the axles changes substantially on the Escorts.

I've got an old manual for some of the Fords (Corsair, Anglia, Cortina) - can't remember if it covers Escorts or not but will check if it does and if it has anything helpful. The Dave Bean catalogue may also have some information and drawings. Will let you know.

Of you're going to pull the stub axles, you may find that easiest to do while the whole assembly is in the car. I don't have experience with the Escort axle, but if it is anything like the older Standard 10 axle, you'll likely need a specialized puller to remove them (and want the entire assembly locked down and solid). They can be a real bear.

To fix the crack and strengthen properly, I'd suggest you're going to need to pull the entire axle assembly off the car. I don't see any way you could clean that well enough to take good weld that would last without removing it and all the innards. The good news is that this gives you a chance to do other things that probably need doing, like replacing seals and bearings for the stub axles.

jury-rig/bodge

When are you thinking, mid-to-late October? I'd love to, though there are some family health issues that will keep me a maybe regardless of how clear my calendar may be right now.

Some will allow you to arrange your own shipping. It is worth asking. I've found that by shopping around I can sometimes find much better rates than the company gets with their 1 preferred shipper. Make the arrangements, pay the shipper, send the documents to the seller, and they hold for pick-up.

This thread may be useful if you find yourself chasing clutch issues. https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/14928-super-seven-s2-clutch-issues/

Check the slave and master cylinders for their sizes - as they've been replaced over the years, it isn't unusual for them to get replaced in different sizes, resulting in varying clutch pressures and travel. Getting the sizes "right" isn't straightforward, as there is conflicting literature from Girling, Lotus, and one or more of the more reputable parts vendors. I seem to remember a thread here on the tioic that included some of those references - if you do a search on this site for clutch cylinders you may come across it. I'll poke around and see if I see it. People's reports on wind reflectors are that they are hit or miss. I have a pair from Redline, and they are a marginal improvement, but I'd rather have them on than off. Of course, the issue isn't really wind, but the aerodynamics (or lack thereof) in these cars. Between the brick shape and the nearly vertical windscreen, at any speed you're developing a big low pressure area in the cockpit - and sucking in the air. Deflectors MAY shift that slightly away from your ears. I've long thought a better solution would be to find a way to route air into the cockpit centrally - either a duct underneath into the cabin or a Miata-style windscreen mount.

The fan and motor were also used on early Lotus Elites... I'm not sure what other cars, but I'm sure they were. I understand the motor is also the same as used on Elan, Elite, and Seven heater boxes - I'll see if I see it listed in any of the Lucas parts manuals/crosswalks. I'll also see if I have any pictures of part numbers on either before installing them (or if they're visible now, grab pictures).

Which idle mixture screws do you have? There are 2 variants, a long taper and a short taper. One requires double the turns - as I recall the long taper, but I could have that backwards in my mind. I'd also recommend EZ Turn fuel lube or similar on those idle mixture screws - they are notorious for leaking air, and doing this was noticeable for me.

I'd forgotten that I originally tried using the misab plates, but this picture gives an idea of the rubber/brass washer system installed. I had some air leaks here that I determined resulted from a less than ideal fit of the embedded o-rings and the manifold groove. I replaced them with viton o-rings and have been good since. You can also see the jet nuts - those allowed me to get to them with a small socket and flexible extension. Otherwise you're stuck using wrenches on both bolt and nut and doing the job in small 1/8-ish turn increments. Ideally, you'd use feeler gauges to check the gap between carb and manifold all the way around, but that is much easier said than done. One strategy to getting the surfaces parallel is to tighten all the way (brass grommets touching, Thackeray washers closed) then back off an equal amount on each. Re the radiator, if you look at the last page in the thread I posted above, you'll find some pictures posted by @Stevensonjr, who I think is in AZ, that show his radiator setup (without the original mounts). In my area, freezing is rarely a concern, and I don't drive it or have it outside when it is super cold, so traditional antifreeze is not needed - and straight water is a better coolant than a mix with antifreeze. Of course, straight water doesn't offer some of the anti-corrosion benefits. NoRosion/HyperKuhl may be something you want to consider.

It is the one that was on the car when I got it, so I can't be certain. But it the same as ones I've seen on other similarly aged and equipped Sevens, so I assume it is either original or a like replacement.