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Christopher smith

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  • Location
    Philadelphia area
  • Se7en
    Lotus 7 series1

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  1. Thanks MV8. Maybe I should go with that carb set up but the dual side draft are a real Joy when the RPMs are up.
  2. Sorry if my info on scoops was confusing to anyone. I chose aluminium to match the look since my bonnet is unpainted 3003-H14. For anyone contemplating a composit approach and may be less familiar with the technology, the term "hand layup" refers to the method real craftsmen use employing a carefully done mold (female in this case) and appropriate layers of gel coat, surface veil and then the layers of glass cloth or chopped strand mat unless you want carbon fiber or Kevlar. Such a product is far superior to SMC (sheet molding compound -think Corvette) or spray up as used on mass produced items. It has a superior stiffness to weight ratio and should be less prone to cracking as well. My opinions are based on 30 + years spending time in many shops and factories employing all these materials and methods. So I have seen a lot of fine work and cheaply produced manufacturing as well. I will admit my communications skills are lacking however, but I am trying to share some important info and very much agree with others who shared info previously and it is fortunate that scoops are now already available.
  3. I needed about 10 mm more clearance for the top of my 2x40DCOEs on my old Cortina GT 1500 motor in my 7. Had a beautiful teardrop made in aluminium. Shocked at the cost- it was more than I originally paid for the car when I found it in the UK a long time ago. Hand layup fiberglass-polyester must be the way to go for scoops
  4. Graham-yes- we were just discussing that. An extreme cleaning and then a small, thin mild steel plate bent as precisely as possible to fit over the crack and re-brazed ( not welded, as you correctly caution) might work. I recall from "Welding and heat treating"class in the engineering department at Penn State just how strong a lap joint can be if brazed properly. Without a plate it would essentially be a butt joint and might just fail again. That all assumes future use in low to medium stress conditions so no slicks or high torque applied.
  5. Great info for any series 2 owner. I had not seen it before. I guess I should be very happy that my car has retained the series 1 suspension design, unaltered, in my series 1, 1959 # 475. It has the original A40 axle ( seems to be the same as AH Sprite Bugeye), modified by Lotus for attachment points according to my receipts from Lotus dated 1959. So it has no central diff pick-up point like series 2 and therefore no twisting of the housing as described for series 2. Not sure why they changed that when they went with the TR10 axle. The original design for lateral axle location has the right lower arm with a welded additional diagonal tube (making a wishbone) that connects from just inboard of the right brake area to a square vertical central tubing member and pivots just a few cm back behind your left hip bone (they were all right hand drive). Anyway, back when I was gathering parts such as the 1500 non-crossflow and dual 40DCOE set-up, I sort of recall the ex-racer saying he had no use for the bare TR10 housing but that I would certainly need it if mine broke. But of course it has been of no use on a series 1 so needs a new home.
  6. Sure I can send it. Can you call me at 215-233-1666 to discuss
  7. The 3003 H14 is what I used also. Hint: If you need to "form" it, like over the round rear tubes on my series 1, the trick is to take an oxy-acetylene torch, but run acetylene only and deposit black soot in the area to be formed. Then turn on the oxygen as well for a normal flame and very gently bring up the heat all over the area, just enough to burn off the soot but no more. That gives you the correct temperature to slightly soften H14 alloy so you can form it after it cools.
  8. That concern about zinc reminded me that welders working on stainless and other chrome or nickel containing alloys (or plated tubes) may want to be sure of very good fume extraction/ventilation. Even grinding creates fine dust and, if oxidized, they may face some bad health even years later. Hexavalent chromium causes cancer and nickel allergy can be severe.
  9. I guess it's just the guys who do flat out racing and I understand they've got enough power to get above 120 mph. Not sure what you do then. There was a rumor that some of the guys lifted the rear end of the clamshells up a little bit for better aerodynamics but got caught by the scrutineers
  10. Thanks---Now I understand why I like that clamshell look. My older brother had a used1949 MG TC which I drove more than he did. That is, until a front spindle broke. He then got a 300SL but my experience with that was limited by very expensive issues with the special injection system. But at 16-18 years old you could not beat the driving experience. Stuck on sports cars ever since.
  11. Just a thought----I agree that the GRP can have issues but also noted that the thickness of the wings is not enough to take severe loadings concentrated in a fastener area. They are made by hand lay up with fiberglass mat or spray-up process with polyester resin. This is not as strong as GRP parts made with multiple layers of glass cloth or better yet, carbon fiber. One solution would be to build up just a bit more thickness of a 40-50 mm diameter using additional mat or glass cloth and suitable resin (polyester or clear unfilled 2 part epoxy) easily available at a boat repair supply place or even an automotive supply. So if you have the wings off and upside down, it is an easy fix to make that area much stronger and less prone to failure in use.
  12. Does anyone recall any definitve testing that compared lap times or top end? I like the looks of clamshells since that was required back in the 1960s and 1970s in the USA and it kind of stuck with me.
  13. Any thoughts on reading plugs for normal or fast road use? For racing, we always used a full throttle run with a quick simultaneous shut of ignition and throttle and declutch, coasting to the pits. Does that still work with the much more modern engines? And is a light tan electrode color pretty good? We always used leaded race fuel so wonder if unleaded means a different color optimum. My experience is with the likes of 1500 non-crossflows and similar.
  14. Yes- do watch words like "breakdown". But if you have any really old British car ( I have a 59 series 1 Lotus) also do not say "fire it up" or "take it for a spin".
  15. Just a thought for anyone thinking about silicone hoses. They require a special clamp design. The old ones used before silicone can dig into the silicone. The proper clamps for silicone must have a smooth,flat surface clamping onto the silicone all the way around. As with so many polymer applications, there are correct choices and designs that prevent problems. In the past I have seen way too many misapplications where choosing the slightly more expensive plastic or rubber makes a huge difference in reliability.
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