MV8 Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 19 hours ago, TEM said: Timing is predicated on knowing where TDC is on the pulley. What are you saying? You lost me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 Maybe I lost you somewhere. Your comment "I suggest rotating the crank key slot to the top center (0 degrees/tdc for #1)" I assumed you wanted me to set the engine to TDC on #1. Reading it again, are you are saying that setting the crank key-way to the 12:00 position it equal to TDC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 Yes, as a more reliable indicator of tdc than an existing mark on a pulley. The purpose is to get you in the ball park for cranking, then set the timing with a dial back timing light or use the methods I described. It sounds like you are trying to do everything at the same time, cooling, clutch, timing, carbs. Do you know if you have the 4.56 or 4.11 final gearing? This engine should have had SUs or a single dcoe. Probably should inventory the carb assemblies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 I readjusted the the timing by retarding 1/8" per the manual and that resolved the hard cranking issue. Pulley notch is now centered on the leading edge of the case indicator. Car starts easily and runs but it's not perfect. This will take some sorting which I will do once the car is derivable. Yup, they all go hand in hand. Needed to get timing in the ball park to start the engine. Tried to tune the carbs but engine over heated. When testing overheating by driving, I uncovered the clutch issue. New crank pulley meant readjusting the timing. Eventually I need to get back to carbs. The Ford 109E Cosworth engine came with twin 40 DCOE Weber carbs. I do not know the final drive ratio but I can tell you its very tall. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 I don't know your engine history, but if it's like mine, had sat a while, had various coolant mixing offences committed, there may be areas of the cooling in the engine clogged with congealed coolant. You found your problem, just contributing for future readers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 1 hour ago, TEM said: The Ford 109E Cosworth engine came with twin 40 DCOE Weber carbs. 109E Cosworth static timing is 4btdc. I thought you had the 105E which is 10btdc. Lucas gap .014-.016". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 (edited) You could be right on the timing number. The manual says that aligning the marks for the 105E give 10BTDC initial advance and the 109E is the same as the 105 but with 1/8" retard. So 4-5BTDC is about right. I have a 109E. I thought I had a 109E block and a 116E head but the 116E casting on the heads were also used on the 109E so I'm convinced I have a standard 109E Cosworth engine with dual 40 DCOE carbs. Edited June 4 by TEM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 What type 40DCOEs? Mine are type DCOE-2. The type and individual carb numbers may give some clues as to whether they may be original to the car (the numbers may not be sequential, but should be in a similar range). Lotus sometimes recorded carb numbers, but even if they did not record them for yours you may be able to piece information together from others that helps you determine if yours are in the right ballpark for your year and chassis number. Lotus recorded the cab numbers for mine as 222xx and 221xx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 My DCOE's are -2's also. SN's are 126xx 149xx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 (edited) 1 hour ago, TEM said: My DCOE's are -2's also. SN's are 126xx 149xx Since you have 2s as well, the tuning thread for mine on Keith Frank's site may be somewhat useful, then. As I recall there are a number of pictures there of progression holes and where the butterflies sit that you may be able to use as comparisons. I did fully disassemble and rebuild mine, and took lots of pictures along the way should you go down the same path and want to see anything. Among other learnings that had an impact on how my engine runs, a significant one was the realization that the mixture adjustment screws come in 2 varieties (should be short taper on ours, but most critical is not mixing and matching), that if screwed in too far they can damage the ports, and that they can/do leak air. Per Keith's recommendation, I used EZTurn fuel lube in the threads to solve that particular air leak. If your carbs haven't been touched in a long while, it is likely that the leather seals for the spindle will also leak. EZTurn or vaseline from outside may provide a temporary solution until you rebuild and replace those seals. Edited June 4 by SENC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 I disassembled the carburetors to clean out the old fuel and make sure that everything moved as it should. I performed a basic rebuild and float setting but not to the level of shaft seals and bearings. Interesting note on air leaks. I will be going through these in a lot more detail at a later date. I have seen others discuss seeing the butterflies through the progression hole ports. i have never been able to see them through those tiny holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENC Posted June 4 Share Posted June 4 3 minutes ago, TEM said: I have seen others discuss seeing the butterflies through the progression hole ports. i have never been able to see them through those tiny holes. Put a flashlight in the rams then open/close the throttle and you'll be able to see them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 I'll be darned, That works well. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 Regarding the radiator sitting higher than the cam cover, I found the radiator is sitting inside the top hats and the top hats are in the correct location in the chassis. The nose cone goes on without any interference with the radiator shroud so I believe the radiator is in the correct position. I think that the engine mounts maybe the culprit. To me they look squished. I have ordered new ones. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 They are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 (edited) Hose in ear to balance the carbs. Its imple, it works, its in the book Edited June 12 by IamScotticus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 Sorry mate, I've worked on SUs/Webers/Dells for 35 years now, give me gauge and I can sync them quicker and more accurately than you with your hose. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 16 hours ago, jbcollier said: Sorry mate, I've worked on SUs/Webers/Dells for 35 years now, give me gauge and I can sync them quicker and more accurately than you with your hose. Ok, which gauge do you like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbcollier Posted June 12 Share Posted June 12 (edited) Not the UniSyn! I use this style: You can get a right angle adapter for tight installations. Edited June 12 by jbcollier 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEM Posted June 12 Author Share Posted June 12 I would like to see how you use that on #1 and #2 cylinders. I can barely get my Unisync in there. I don't like the Unisync because it doesn't show any air flow unless I raise the idle to around 2000rpm even if I crank it closed. But it's the thinnest gauge around. I didn't want to spend over $100 on a synchrometer with 90 deg adapter unless I was sure that it would fit into the #1 carburetor without removing the horn or fender. Please show us a picture of it fitting into the #1 cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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