MV8 Posted November 28, 2024 Share Posted November 28, 2024 Doesn't need to be a plastic hose. You can flare steel or nicopp line then bend to fit, or use an appropriate length, pre-made AGS line with inverted flare ends and fittings and but ignore the fittings and use hose clamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted November 29, 2024 Author Share Posted November 29, 2024 5 hours ago, MV8 said: Doesn't need to be a plastic hose. You can flare steel or nicopp line then bend to fit, or use an appropriate length, pre-made AGS line with inverted flare ends and fittings and but ignore the fittings and use hose clamps. Yes i can do that, im one of those guys that prefer things to be as original as it can be. Unfortunately in this case i guess ill have to retrofit the tube. thanks for the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 8, 2024 Author Share Posted December 8, 2024 I had the chance to refresh the engine with new hoses and other parts here and there. Unfortunately im very disappointed with the Canton oil pan the finishing is really bad. The matting point was good in one side and the other side it was 2-3mm far than the block even if rtv would do it i dont think that it should be this way. The baffle plate needed modifications the holes were not even on point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted December 8, 2024 Share Posted December 8, 2024 (edited) Trim the baffle if that is what is holding the pan off the block. Do not use the bolts to try and close the gap or extra rtv to fill the gap. A 1/4" straight/not tapered rotary file in a drill can provide enough slotting for the bolt holes to align. After the pan has been modded for no gap at the block (without the gasket or bolts), add a fastener less than fully finger tight, one at a time going back and forth from side to side, until you cannot add anymore. scratch or mark the side of the remaining holes that need slotting and SLIGHTLY increase the other holes (that had fasteners) with a drill bit. Edited December 8, 2024 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted December 8, 2024 Share Posted December 8, 2024 I had to trim this part of the baffle then the holes lined up. Also, you have to remove the stock windage tray. I spoke to Canton about this because I was also not happy. In the end they confirmed that the modification is necessary for AP1 engines. Canton said they would address the issue for subsequent purchasers, but it seems that didn't happen. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 8, 2024 Author Share Posted December 8, 2024 3 hours ago, MV8 said: Trim the baffle if that is what is holding the pan off the block. Do not use the bolts to try and close the gap or extra rtv to fill the gap. A 1/4" straight/not tapered rotary file in a drill can provide enough slotting for the bolt holes to align. After the pan has been modded for no gap at the block (without the gasket or bolts), add a fastener less than fully finger tight, one at a time going back and forth from side to side, until you cannot add anymore. scratch or mark the side of the remaining holes that need slotting and SLIGHTLY increase the other holes (that had fasteners) with a drill bit. Honestly im ditching canton's oil pan and going with toda or mugen. It is doable but paying more than the others in the market i expect a good product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 8, 2024 Author Share Posted December 8, 2024 3 hours ago, nc7s4 said: I had to trim this part of the baffle then the holes lined up. Also, you have to remove the stock windage tray. I spoke to Canton about this because I was also not happy. In the end they confirmed that the modification is necessary for AP1 engines. Canton said they would address the issue for subsequent purchasers, but it seems that didn't happen. I do have the AP2 f22c engine and did trim that part off and on the other side it still didnt fit. The corner of the gate on one the left side also hits there is barely no gap on the front side to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted December 8, 2024 Share Posted December 8, 2024 Did you remove the windage tray before fitting it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 8, 2024 Author Share Posted December 8, 2024 (edited) 25 minutes ago, nc7s4 said: Did you remove the windage tray before fitting it? Yup removed Edited December 8, 2024 by Rashid_seyadi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted December 8, 2024 Share Posted December 8, 2024 That's crazy. Did you put it down on your bench to check if it's flat? Huge quality issue if there is that much of a gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 9, 2024 Author Share Posted December 9, 2024 14 hours ago, nc7s4 said: That's crazy. Did you put it down on your bench to check if it's flat? Huge quality issue if there is that much of a gap. Yup tried that and honestly its clearly bent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 13, 2024 Author Share Posted December 13, 2024 Got a question regarding the hubs the rear left looks different than the other side is that normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted December 13, 2024 Share Posted December 13, 2024 No, I don't think it's normal. It looks like maybe one of the sides has a spacer on it. Is the knuckle the same on both sides? They look like Subaru WRX non-sti knuckles. Can you confirm if the only difference is that a spacer is added on one side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted December 13, 2024 Share Posted December 13, 2024 Looks like an abs ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc7s4 Posted December 13, 2024 Share Posted December 13, 2024 3 minutes ago, MV8 said: Looks like an abs ring. Oh you're right. It has teeth on the back side. The extra bit must be for a speed sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 13, 2024 Author Share Posted December 13, 2024 1 hour ago, nc7s4 said: No, I don't think it's normal. It looks like maybe one of the sides has a spacer on it. Is the knuckle the same on both sides? They look like Subaru WRX non-sti knuckles. Can you confirm if the only difference is that a spacer is added on one side? Its just one side. Forgot to mention that it has a hydraulic brake system installed could it be thats the reason? Im planning to remove it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 13, 2024 Author Share Posted December 13, 2024 45 minutes ago, MV8 said: Looks like an abs ring. It could be, when i got the car it was almost impossible to push the car. And when i could it acted like something was holding and releasing i thought the bearings were broken or something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted December 13, 2024 Share Posted December 13, 2024 I like the ABS ring explanation. Do some tape measuring, maybe run a string front-to-rear, and see if the face of the hub is the same relative to the rest of the car. If so, it's meant to be the way it is. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted December 13, 2024 Share Posted December 13, 2024 (edited) The abs ring doesn't touch anything. You could remove it but it is not worth the hassle to pull the hub. I guess you are referring to a hydraulic parking brake which isn't needed when you could do the same with a line lock spliced into the rear brake line from the master cylinder. I expect the initial difficulty rolling after sitting for years was from rust on the rotors and sticking calipers. Edited December 13, 2024 by MV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashid_seyadi Posted December 13, 2024 Author Share Posted December 13, 2024 45 minutes ago, wdb said: I like the ABS ring explanation. Do some tape measuring, maybe run a string front-to-rear, and see if the face of the hub is the same relative to the rest of the car. If so, it's meant to be the way it is. Yes ill give that a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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