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Just. Wow.

Bingo. That was never a 7 of any kind.

Yes do lock the steering wheel in place; I use a scissors jack and some protective material to push up on it from below. As to friction at the tire surface, there are inexpensive means of reducing it. A piece of plastic sheet under the tire is one way. Another one I've heard about is two pieces of linoleum tile with some grease smeared on them. That one sounds a bit messy. I'm sure there are other ways just waiting to be discovered. And of course one can always get alignment plates...

8 MPG? You may want to pull the dipstick and sniff for gas smell.

Hi, I'm going to contact you via private messaging.

Gorgeous photos.

It certainly appears to be a regulator, and fuel makes the most sense. But it also appears as though only one of the barbed tubes is connected to a rubber line. That seems odd if fuel is going through it. Is there a third connection, perhaps on the underside?

I put my tank where the battery mounts, and moved the battery to just in front of the cowl. Different engine, same chassis.

Berks County PA, near Kutztown. Here is a link to pictures. Let me know if it doesn't work. Price? I haven't really done any research so at this point I'm open. https://photos.app.goo.gl/v3AxFkQsUCCASLYv8

Ouch! Good thing the car is so light. My gas gauge reads "full" all the time, probably because there is no sending unit whatsoever. I deal with it by keeping an eye on miles driven. So far so good... 🤞

Let the purist wailing begin... ...oh, wait, that's an Elan thing.

And to think it only took AI ~5 watt-hours of energy to create that.

I have one. Located in southeast Pennsylvania USA. It came out of a 1995 S3. If you're interested reach out and I'll send pictures etc.

An actual event during the Cold War. https://www.hagerty.com/media/car-profiles/this-austin-healey-sprite-escaped-east-germany-twice/

It did not happen to me, rather the prior owner. He took the car to a regionally well regarded restoration shop to have the engine fitted and some other items done to get the car completed. As I went through the car after I bought it I found workmanship that was far, far below the standards I would have expected from a shop with its reputation. (I've since been told that the business went through a period where quality slipped a significant amount; I've also been told that the situation has since been rectified.) I guess the prior owner would have liked to know that before sending the car there. And before writing those substantial checks. I know of two places locally that might work on my 7, and that I might let work on it. So far though I'm the only to blame for the horror stories.

I'm laughing *with* you, really! I can recall sharing that joy many times.

I recently asked ChatGPT to find me a good lux meter app for iPhone. It gave me several, with one highlighted as best. I went to the app store -- nada. Went back to the Chat -- oh gee, I see that now, try this one. Same exact result. And a third time too. I gave up, but not before telling the chatbot that it had utterly wasted my time.

Would freezing it break the bond?

Those types would probably need an SV...

It may have heard that people were dying to get into that cemetery and taken it to heart.

A fuel injected car is going to have a return line to the gas tank I believe? My car has Webers so I can't directly comment. I'm thinking of that line at the top of the tank. The @JohnCh loop reminds me of what I rigged up on my car to reduce the gas smell in the garage. It's a looped hose coming off the vent port (with rollover valve) on the fuel cell. The exit is below the bottom of the tank. I believe the science behind the loops is that vapors will condense before making it all the way through. The fuel/vapors will be drawn back into the tank as air is pulled in to replace the fuel being spent on fun things.

I have no direct experience with assembling a Caterham from a kit so please keep that in mind. But it sure sounds like a ground issue. Current is finding strange ways to get places. You might try taking a set of jumper cables and clamping them here and there, the goal being to see if some part of the car is isolated electrically. After that I guess I'd dig into the harness and connections. Headlights and starter are both big users of current, maybe they have some part of the circuitry in common?

On the front page no less. https://www.nytimes.com/2026/04/11/business/caterham-seven-racecar.html

"Why it seems to work with engine off but not when it is on is the mystery. " The obvious answer is "nothing is spinning when the engine is off" although I don't exactly know where to go from there. Something heating up?

Two words: de minimis. Put it back for heaven's sake. Let the little fish swim.